I stood on the terrace of our rented apartment in Praiano, coffee in hand, watching the morning light hit the pastel houses of Positano across the cove. It looked close enough to walk. Michael had already checked the map. “It’s only like 4 kilometers as the crow flies,” he said. That’s the thing with the Amalfi Coast — nothing is as direct as it looks.
The coastal trail from Praiano to Positano via the Path of the Gods is absolutely doable in a day, but it’s a real hike — plan for 4 to 5 hours depending on your pace, and that’s before you account for the nearly 1,000-step staircase that kicks things off.
This guide covers the route from Praiano specifically, what makes it different from the more popular Bomerano start, and whether the extra effort is worth it. I’m writing for hikers who want honest timing, real logistics, and one very specific warning about stairs.
Route & Logistics
Starting in Praiano Means Earning Your Views
The classic Path of the Gods begins in Bomerano, but starting in Praiano adds real challenge — and genuinely changes the experience.
We reached Praiano from Amalfi on the SITA Sud bus for €1.30 — a 25-minute ride that cost less than a coffee. From the bus stop at junction Vettica (Stop #7 on SS 163), we walked uphill into the village. The climb begins almost immediately through narrow backstreets, passing the Convent of San Domenico around the 2.5-kilometer mark. By the time we reached the ridge with views of the Gulf of Salerno and Positano, we’d gained over 400 meters in elevation across roughly 3 kilometers of stone staircases.
The trailhead near Via Costantinopoli has no official signage. Download an offline map before you arrive — mobile signal drops in spots, and the staircase you’re looking for is used mainly by local farmers who probably won’t appreciate you wandering into their property.
How the Praiano Route Compares to the Classic Bomerano to Nocelle Path
Most hikers start in Bomerano and walk downhill toward Nocelle — the Praiano approach flips that completely.
| Route | Distance | Elevation Gain | Typical Time |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bomerano → Nocelle (classic) | 7 km (4.3 miles) | Minimal (mostly downhill) | 2 hours |
| Bomerano → Nocelle → Positano | ~8 km | Moderate | 3–4 hours |
| Praiano → Path → Positano | 11.2 km (7 miles) | ~500 meters | 4–5 hours |
The classic route from Bomerano to Nocelle is 7 kilometers and takes about two hours, mostly downhill. Many hikers extend it to Positano via the staircase descent from Nocelle, adding another hour. By contrast, hiking from Praiano to Positano via the same trail network covers 11.2 kilometers with roughly 500 meters of elevation gain — and that’s all front-loaded into the first third of the walk. The highest point of the trail sits around 630 meters above sea level.
If you’re staying in Praiano but want an easier day, Casa Angelina runs an hourly shuttle to Positano that takes under 10 minutes. You can then take a bus from Positano to Bomerano (the TravelMar shuttle runs April through October for €16 from Amalfi, with stops along the way) and hike downhill back toward Nocelle, finishing with a short bus or taxi back to Praiano.
What to Pack and When to Go
Late October still felt warm in the sun, but the conditions changed fast in the shade of the cliffs.
The best months for this hike are spring — March through May — and early autumn, specifically September through early October, when temperatures sit around 15–20°C. Summer is busy and hot; if you go then, start before 8 a.m. and bring serious sun protection. Rain makes the stone steps dangerously slippery, so check the forecast and skip it if rain is likely.
Carry at least two liters of water per person, snacks or a light lunch, sunscreen, a wide-brimmed hat, and sunglasses. Good footwear with grip matters more than anything else — I saw one woman in espadrilles who turned back after ten minutes. A portable charger for your phone and some cash for snacks or a taxi at the end are smart additions. The path has narrow sections, loose stones, and exposed edges — it’s not a casual stroll.
- Starting from Praiano adds roughly 1,000 stairs and 2+ hours compared to the Bomerano start.
- No trail markers in Praiano — download offline maps and locate Via Costantinopoli before you go.
- Buses from Positano back to Praiano can be standing-room-only in high season; have a taxi number saved as backup.
Before You Hike the Praiano to Positano Trail
Do I need a guide for this route?
Not necessarily, but a guide helps with navigation and confidence on the exposed sections. Guided tours are available from Sorrento and surrounding towns if you’d rather not manage logistics.
Can I bring kids on this hike?
Older kids with hiking experience can handle it, but Ethan at age four didn’t make it past the staircase. Lily at seven managed with lots of encouragement and snack breaks. For younger children, consider the shorter Bomerano to Nocelle route instead.
Is the Path of the Gods overrated?
Honestly, parts of it feel a bit hyped — the trail is narrow and rocky, not a scenic promenade. But the moment you round the ridge and see both Positano and Capri in one frame, you’ll understand why people write home about it.
How do I get back to Praiano after reaching Positano?
SITA Sud buses run from Positano back toward Praiano and Amalfi, but they fill up fast in peak season — expect standing room. A taxi from Positano to Bomerano costs around €120 as a reference point, and from Positano to Praiano you’d pay less but still significant.
Why I’d Do It All Over Again — Stairs and All
That moment when you crest the final ridge and the entire Amalfi Coast opens up below you — Positano stacked like sugar cubes against the sea, Capri floating on the horizon — it’s the kind of view that makes you forget every stair. I wouldn’t trade the quiet of Praiano for the crowds of Positano, and I wouldn’t trade the walk between them for a bus ride, either. For more on the broader Path of the Gods and other Amalfi Coast hikes, take a look at this detailed guide to hiking the trail from other starting points.
Sources and further reading
Globetrotter Girls. “Path of the Gods Hike: Praiano to Positano.” 🔗
Build and Board Travel. “Hiking the Path of the Gods: Praiano to Positano.” 🔗
Atlas and Boots. “Hiking the Path of the Gods: Amalfi Coast Trail.” 🔗
Observer. “Praiano on the Amalfi Coast — Authentic Travel Guide.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
The 10 Best Amalfi Coast Towns to Visit — A rundown of every major town along the coast, including which ones work best as a base for hiking.
Explore Italy’s Amalfi Coast Beaches — Beach-by-beach guide to where to swim after a long hike, from Marina di Praia to Fornillo.
Salerno: Your Quieter Amalfi Coast Escape — A less crowded base camp with direct ferry connections to Positano and Amalfi, perfect if Praiano is booked up.