I stood on the church steps in Vettica Maggiore, a tiny village that belongs to Praiano, and understood why locals say the coast looks best from here. The majolica-tiled dome of the Church of San Gennaro glowed in the late afternoon sun, and below me the sea stretched all the way to Capri. It took me about 400 steps down from the square to reach Gavitella Beach, but the view from those stairs is what I still think about weeks later.
Piazza San Gennaro in Vettica Maggiore offers a view of Capri, and the church dome is covered in traditional majolica tiles.
Yes, the church steps at Vettica Maggiore are worth the detour. The view of the Amalfi Coast from that spot is better than any postcard – and you get it without the crowds of Positano or Amalfi town.
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Families with older kids
The Church of San Gennaro – More Than a Photo Op
This church is small, but its dome and bell tower covered in colourful majolica tiles make it one of the most distinctive spots on the coast.
We visited on a Tuesday afternoon, and only a handful of people were around. The church itself is usually closed, but the real draw is the square in front of it – Piazza San Gennaro. From there, you look straight out over the water, with the rugged coastline curving away on both sides. I brought my travel journal and sat on the low wall for twenty minutes, just watching the ferries cross the bay.
Gavitella Beach – Steps Worth Taking
From the church square, a staircase of roughly 400 steps leads down to one of the few beaches on this stretch of coast that sees the sunset.
Those steps are not for everyone. My four-year-old Ethan managed them, but he needed a piggyback on the way back up. Michael and I took turns carrying him, and we stopped several times to rest. The effort is rewarded with a small pebble beach that has a bar and a few loungers. The water is clear, and because the beach faces west, you get a sunset show that draws a small crowd every evening.
Go to Gavitella Beach around 5 PM in summer. The sun starts dropping behind the horizon around 7:30, and the light on the cliffs is golden. Bring water shoes – the pebbles are uncomfortable on bare feet.
If you have a drone, the view from above the steps is incredible. I used a DJI Mini 4K drone to capture the coastline from the church dome down to the beach. The footage came out stable and sharp, even with a light breeze. The drone is under 249g, so it doesn’t need registration in Italy, and the return-to-home feature gave me peace of mind over the water.
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Praiano’s Art Trail – A Quiet Surprise
Praiano’s NaturArte project, launched in 2013, has placed stone sculptures and ceramic artworks along the streets and staircases of the town.
Walking from the church towards the main road, I noticed a small mosaic embedded in a wall. Then another. The pieces are part of eight themed itineraries that wind through the village. My daughter Lily loved spotting the ceramic fish and sea creatures. It turned a simple walk into a treasure hunt. The art is subtle – you might miss it if you’re not looking – but it adds a layer of personality to a town that already feels unpolished and real.
The NaturArte itineraries are free and self-guided. You can pick up a map at the tourist office in Praiano’s main square, or just wander and see what you find. The artwork is most concentrated around the staircases leading up from the coast road.
Getting to Vettica Maggiore – Your Options
The village is a short walk from Praiano’s centre, and the local bus stops right by the church.
We drove from Amalfi in January, which was a quiet time on the road. Parking in Praiano is tight, but we found a spot in a public lot near the town hall. The SITA bus runs from Amalfi and Positano, and the stop is called “Vettica Maggiore”. If you’re coming by ferry, the Travelmar service stops at Praiano’s port, and from there you climb up the stairs to the church – about 15 minutes of steep steps. For a more relaxed approach, you can book a private boat tour that includes a stop at Gavitella Beach.
| Option | Time from Amalfi | Crowds | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bus (SITA) | 20 min | Medium | Budget travellers |
| Car | 15 min | Low (parking hard) | Flexibility |
| Ferry (Travelmar) | 15 min | Low | Scenic arrival |
| Private boat | Custom | Very low | Luxury + sunset |
- Vettica Maggiore is free to visit – no ticket, no entrance fee.
- Go late afternoon for the best light on the church tiles and the sunset over the sea.
- Bring a sturdy pair of sandals for the 400 steps down to Gavitella Beach – it’s a workout.
Before You Visit Vettica Maggiore
Are the church steps suitable for toddlers?
They are steep and uneven in places. I carried my four-year-old up, and my seven-year-old managed fine with a hand to hold. If you use a stroller, leave it at the top – the beach is not stroller-friendly.
Consider a baby carrier instead. The view from the steps is worth the extra effort, but plan for a slower pace.
Is Vettica Maggiore overrated or crowded?
It’s not overrated, but it can get busy in August, especially around the Luminarie festival. The church square fills up during sunset. The genuine downside is the lack of services – no ATM, few restaurants, and the only public restroom is at the beach bar.
If you want a quiet spot, visit in the morning or on a weekday in shoulder season.
Can you see Capri from the church steps?
Yes, on a clear day. The square faces directly towards Capri, and the island is visible on the horizon. The best visibility is in the morning before the haze sets in.
Bring binoculars if you want to spot the Faraglioni rocks – they’re tiny from this distance.
What’s the best way to photograph the church dome?
Use a zoom lens or a drone. The dome is tall, and from the square you can’t capture the full tile pattern. I used a DJI Mini 3 Fly More Combo to get a clean overhead shot – the vertical shooting mode is perfect for social media.
A standard wide-angle lens works too, but you’ll need to position yourself across the road on the opposite parapet.
How long should you spend in Vettica Maggiore?
Plan one to two hours, including the walk to the beach and back. If you want to swim, add another hour. The village itself is small, so you won’t need a full day.
Combine it with a visit to Praiano’s other attractions – the San Luca Evangelista Church and the Marina di Praia beach are a 10-minute drive away.
Why Those Steps Stuck With Me
I’ve stood on many viewpoints along the Amalfi Coast, and Vettica Maggiore’s church steps are the one I keep describing to friends. The majolica tiles, the quiet square, the way the sea frames the curve of the coast – it’s a spot that feels like a secret, even though it’s well known to locals. I didn’t expect to find a place that made me want to sit down and write in my journal, but that’s exactly what happened. For a different perspective on the coast, read the fall on the Amalfi Coast guide – it’s full of tips for visiting when the crowds are thin and the colours are at their best.
Sources and further reading
Travelamalficoast.it. “Praiano – the town you do not expect.” Accessed 2025. 🔗
DJI. “DJI Mini 4K – Product Page.” Accessed 2025. 🔗
DJI. “DJI Mini 3 Fly More Combo – Product Page.” Accessed 2025. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Explore Italy’s Amalfi Coast beaches — a guide to the best beaches from Amalfi to Positano, including Gavitella and Marina di Praia.
Amalfi Coast road trip in January — what it’s like to drive the SS163 with empty roads and winter light.
Cinque Terre vs Amalfi Coast: which Italian hike is better? — a comparison of the two iconic coastal hiking destinations.
Greece vs Italy: land or sea for a serene summer — helps you decide between Italy’s coasts and the Greek islands for your next trip.