For centuries, Neapolitans have whispered about the anime pezzentelle — the poor souls of Purgatory — and the sprawling underground ossuary where their skulls rest. The Cimitero delle Fontanelle has long been one of those places travelers heard about from a local, or stumbled upon in a dark tourism roundup, but could never actually get into. After seven years of intermittent closures and structural reinforcement, the cemetery officially reopened its doors on April 18, 2026, and the city marked the occasion with a community march of over 500 people from Largo Totò.
The reopening ceremony was led by the Archbishop of Naples, Don Mimmo Battaglia, and Mayor Gaetano Manfredi, who called the moment a high-profile administrative and social victory for the city. The site is now managed by the Cooperativa La Paranza — the same group behind the revival of the Catacombs of San Gennaro — under a public-private partnership funded by roughly 840,000 euros from the Fondazione con il Sud and the Fondazione di Comunità San Gennaro. For anyone who has followed the slow renaissance of the Rione Sanità district, this felt like the final piece clicking into place.
From Tuff Quarry to Final Resting Place
The Fontanelle Cemetery sits in a network of ancient tuff caves beneath the streets of the Sanità district, originally quarried by the Greeks and Romans for the soft volcanic stone used to build Naples above. After the devastating plague of 1656 — which killed an estimated 250,000 to 300,000 people — the city’s parish cemeteries simply ran out of room. The quarries became a mass grave for the anonymous poor, a pattern that repeated during the cholera epidemic of 1836.
Over time, the site accumulated the remains of roughly 40,000 individuals, stacked along damp rock walls in galleries fifteen meters high and a hundred meters deep. In 1872, a local canon named Gaetano Barbati took it upon himself to bring order to the chaos. With the help of a group of local women, he collected, cleaned, and arranged the scattered bones into methodical stacks and distinct aisles — a bone library, organized by compassion rather than catalog.
Barbati’s reorganization transformed the quarry into something more than a burial ground. It became a place of popular worship, where the boundary between the living and the dead felt thin enough to cross.
The Cult of the Anime Pezzentelle
The tradition of the anime pezzentelle — from the Latin petere, meaning to beg — centers on a reciprocal relationship between the living and the anonymous dead. These were souls stuck in Purgatory, with no living family to pray for them or a name to be remembered by. Neighborhood women, mostly, began visiting the caves to adopt a specific skull — a capuzzella — cleaning it, polishing it, and placing it in a small shrine made of wood, a biscuit tin, or even marble, decorated with candles and rosaries.
In exchange for this care and refrisco — spiritual relief from the fires of Purgatory — the capuzzella was expected to provide protection, healing, or famously, the winning numbers for the lottery. The practice balanced between Catholic orthodoxy and folk tradition, and it troubled the Church enough that Cardinal Corrado Ursi officially banned the public cult in 1969, closing the necropolis. But the devotion never truly faded, and the skulls remained in place, cared for in secret.
Famous Faces in the Bone Library
Walking through the ossuary’s three naves, certain skulls have earned names and legends. The undisputed star is Il Capitano — a skull believed to belong to a Spanish soldier, associated with lovers and marriage. Several versions of the legend exist, often involving a skeptical bridegroom who mocked the skull and met an unfortunate fate. Women seeking a husband have traditionally turned to him for help.
Then there’s Donna Concetta, known as ‘a capa che suda — the sweating skull. Her remains stay unusually shiny while the surrounding skulls collect dust, which devotees have long interpreted as a supernatural sign. Women hoping to have a child have traditionally prayed to her for intercession. Another famous resident is Donna Margherita di Carafa, the only skull laid in a proper coffin. Legend says she died choking on a dumpling and brings good luck. During World War II bombings, children from the Sanità neighborhood, including the future photographer Mimmo Jodice, took refuge near her skull for protection.
Planning Your Visit to Fontanelle Cemetery
The reopening means the site is finally accessible under clear municipal guidelines. Here is what you need to know before you go.
The cemetery is located at Via Fontanelle 80 in the Rione Sanità district. It is open six days a week from 10:00 AM to 6:00 PM, with last entry strictly at 5:15 PM. It is closed on Wednesdays and Christmas Day. The closest metro stop is Materdei on Line 1, though the Museo stop is also walkable through the neighborhood.
Advance booking is mandatory for all visitors. Tickets range from €6 to €8 and can be reserved through the official booking portal. The site caps capacity at 75 people per time slot, and organized tours may not exceed 25 people per group including the guide. If you hold a Naples Pass, you get discounted access.
For travelers interested in the devotional history, the site offers free entry on Mondays and Fridays from 9:00 AM to 10:00 AM, reserved exclusively for prayer and worship in a designated area under staff supervision. It is a small window, but it offers a glimpse of the site as it was originally used.
Book your time slot online before you arrive. The capacity is tight, and walk-up entry is not guaranteed. The official portal opens slots several weeks in advance.
Before You Go to the Fontanelle Cemetery
Is the Fontanelle Cemetery safe to visit?
Yes. The site underwent extensive safety consolidation on the tuff cavities, and state-of-the-art lighting was installed. The entire space is now fully accessible and barrier-free.
Can I still adopt a skull today?
The public cult was officially banned by the Church in 1969, and the practice is no longer active in the cemetery. The wooden shrines and devotional objects you see are historical traces left by previous generations. Modern visitors can observe the space and learn about the tradition through guided tours and informational panels.
Who are the anime pezzentelle?
The term translates roughly to “begging souls” — anonymous dead believed to be stuck in Purgatory, with no living relatives to pray for them. The tradition held that by adopting a skull and praying for its relief, the living could gain a powerful intercessor.
Is the site suitable for children?
If your kids are old enough to handle a serious conversation about life, death, and cultural difference, the sheer scale of the ossuary and the stories of the capuzzelle can spark really thoughtful conversations. For younger or more sensitive children, the atmosphere may be intense.
Is it worth visiting given the hype around the reopening?
Honestly, yes — if you are drawn to authentic, offbeat cultural history. This is not a polished museum experience. It is a raw, quiet, and deeply human place. The recent investment and professional management by La Paranza mean you can now visit it with the respect and context it deserves.
More Than an Ossuary
The reopening of the Fontanelle Cemetery is not just about a single site. It is the latest chapter in the broader renaissance of the Rione Sanità district, which has become a global model for urban regeneration driven by cultural heritage. The Cooperativa La Paranza, which started with eight young people in 2006, now employs about seventy people and manages the Miglio Sacro — the Sacred Mile of catacombs, churches, and historic sites that includes San Gennaro, San Gaudioso, and now the Fontanelle.
Walking among the stacked bones, with the soft lighting and the echo of your own footsteps, you feel the weight of a community that refused to let its dead become invisible. The Fontanelle Cemetery expresses the Neapolitan spirit like no other site I have read about — a place where death inspires not fear, but familiarity, care, and a stubborn kind of love.
If you are planning a trip to Naples and want to understand the city beyond pizza and panoramic views, this underground ossuary belongs on your list. Pack a solid daypack like the Samsonite Classic Leather Slim Backpack for the walk through Rione Sanità, and give yourself a few hours to sit with the stories the skulls still hold.
Sources and further reading
Cronache della Campania. “Naples, the Fontanelle Cemetery is reborn.” 2026. 🔗
The Wom Travel. “Reopening of the Fontanelle Cemetery.” 2026. 🔗
Il Mattino. “The return of the Fontanelle Cemetery, where death inspires familiarity.” 2026. 🔗
Visit Italy. “Cimitero delle Fontanelle Naples opens again.” 2026. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Naples Travel Guide: A Complete Week-Long Trip — A full itinerary that pairs well with a visit to the Sanità district and the catacombs.
Explore Naples: Historic Sites and Vibrant Neighborhoods — Context on the city’s layered history and the neighborhoods worth exploring on foot.
Naples and Vietri sul Mare Trip: 6 Nights in April — A spring trip idea that combines Naples with the Amalfi Coast, including practical tips for first-time visitors.