Eat Your Way Through Rome’s Culinary Stars

I’m standing at the edge of the Aventino, coffee in hand, watching the morning light hit the dome of St. Peter’s. It’s my third morning in Rome, and I’ve already learned that the city’s real culinary stars aren’t the ones with the longest lines. They’re the ones where locals linger over a single espresso and the menu changes with what’s at the market that morning. Rome has over 9,000 restaurants, and finding the ones worth your time takes a strategy. This guide is for travelers who want to eat like they live here — one neighborhood, one plate, one perfectly poured glass of wine at a time.

Morning fuel: Coffee, cornetto, and the Testaccio market

Start your day where Romans do — at the intersection of strong coffee and a neighborhood market.

I walked from my apartment toward Testaccio, a working-class neighborhood that feels a world away from the crowds at the Colosseum. My first stop was Mostro, a tiny coffee bar at the edge of the Aventino and Testaccio. The barista pulled a shot that was dark, smooth, and finished in two sips. I ordered a cornetto — simple, flaky, not too sweet — and stood at the counter like everyone else. No one sits down for morning coffee in Rome. You drink it fast, standing, and you move on.

From there, I walked to Casa Manfredi, a pasticceria-coffee bar hybrid that serves viennoiserie so light they practically dissolve. The pistachio cream-filled one was gone before I reached the door. A short walk brought me to Emporio delle Spezie, a spice shop that stocks Malaysian peppercorns, dried chiles, and aged vinegars. I picked up a small bag of smoked salt for less than €5. It’s the kind of place you wander into and leave with three things you didn’t know you needed.

Lunch at Piatto Romano and a gelato detour

Classic Roman pastas and a gelato flavor you won’t find anywhere else.

By noon, I was hungry enough to eat a horse — so I went to Piatto Romano instead. This place does classic Roman pastas and roasted meats the way they should be done. I ordered the misticanza salad with anchovy vinaigrette, followed by sautéed chicory and sweet and sour onions. The pasta was al dente, the sauce was rich without being heavy, and the roasted pork shoulder fell apart with a fork. It’s the kind of lunch that makes you want to cancel your afternoon plans and order another round.

After lunch, I walked off the carbs with a stop at Torcè for gelato. I tried the black sesame flavor — nutty, savory, completely unexpected. They also do a gorgonzola flavor that I was too full to attempt. If you’re feeling brave, go for it. I stuck with the black sesame and regretted nothing.

Afternoon grazing: Cheese, pantry staples, and natural wine

Rome’s best bites aren’t always on a plate — sometimes they’re behind a deli counter or in a cheese cave.

I spent the afternoon hopping between three spots that define Roman food culture. First, Salumeria Roscioli near Campo de’ Fiori. This is part deli, part pantry, part religious experience. I picked up vacuum-packed Pecorino Romano, a jar of anchovies, and a small tin of bottarga. The staff let me taste three different olive oils before I chose one. It’s the kind of place where you walk in for one thing and leave with a full shopping bag.

From there, I crossed into the Jewish Ghetto for Beppe e i Suoi Formaggi. This cheese shop specializes in Piedmontese raw-milk cheeses. I tried the robiola giallina, a summer-only cheese made from cows grazing on mountain greens. It was creamy, grassy, and completely unlike anything I’ve had in the US. The house white wine, from western Sicily, paired perfectly. I bought a wedge to take back to my apartment.

By late afternoon, I needed a drink. I found Il Piccolo, a tiny natural-wine-focused bar with a few coveted sidewalk seats. I ordered a glass of something orange and funky from a producer I’d never heard of. The bartender explained it was a skin-contact wine from Lazio, made with minimal intervention. It was exactly what I wanted — no pretense, just good wine in a plastic cup on a Roman side street.

Dinner at Cesare al Pellegrino and a speakeasy nightcap

One of Rome’s most respected trattorias, followed by a cocktail in a hidden bar.

Dinner was at Cesare al Pellegrino, near Campo de’ Fiori. This place has a reputation for its amatriciana, and it earned every bit of it. The guanciale was crispy, the tomato sauce was bright, and the pecorino was sharp. I also tried the picchiapò — braised beef in a mild spicy tomato sauce — which was tender and deeply flavored. The wine list leans low-intervention, with a focus on Lazio producers. I asked the sommelier for a recommendation and ended up with a bottle of Cesanese that cost €28 and was one of the best reds I’ve had in Italy.

After dinner, I crossed the river to Trastevere for a nightcap at The Jerry Thomas Speakeasy. This place requires a reservation — you ring a buzzer and wait for someone to let you in. The interior is all dark wood and velvet, like the Orient Express if it were a cocktail bar. I ordered a Negroni Sbagliato, which arrived in a crystal glass with a single large ice cube. It was perfect. Reservations are essential, so book ahead on their website.

Day two: Skip the Vatican, eat in Prati

The neighborhood around the Vatican has some of Rome’s best everyday eateries — if you know where to look.

On my second morning, I skipped the Vatican museum line and headed straight for Prati. This neighborhood is full of residential streets, old-school bakeries, and trattorias that have been feeding locals for decades. I grabbed a quick coffee and pastry from a Fischio kiosk near the Vatican — a chain that does solid espresso and fresh cornetti for under €2. It’s not fancy, but it’s fast and good.

I spent the morning wandering Prati’s side streets, stopping into a panificio for a slice of pizza bianca and a wine bar for a mid-morning glass of something cold. The neighborhood feels like a secret — tourists rush past it on their way to the Vatican, but the real action is in the bakeries and delis. If you’re staying near the Vatican, skip the hotel breakfast and eat here instead.

How to book the tough reservations

Some of Rome’s best tables require planning. Here’s how to get them.

Before you go: Rome’s food scene, straight up

Is Rome overrated for food?

Parts of it are. The tourist zones around the Trevi Fountain and Spanish Steps serve mediocre pasta at inflated prices. But the neighborhoods — Testaccio, Prati, Trionfale, the Jewish Ghetto — have some of the best food in Italy. You just have to know where to go.

How much should I budget for food in Rome?

A coffee and cornetto costs around €2-3. A lunch at a trattoria runs €15-25 per person. Dinner with wine at a mid-range spot is €40-60 per person. Fine dining and speakeasy cocktails will push that higher.

What’s the one dish I shouldn’t miss?

Amatriciana at Cesare al Pellegrino. It’s the benchmark for the dish — guanciale, pecorino, tomato, and nothing else. Simple, perfect, unforgettable.

Is the Testaccio market worth visiting?

Yes, but go early. By 11am it’s packed with locals and food tour groups. The produce is excellent, and the prepared food counters are great for a quick lunch. Bring cash.

What’s the biggest disappointment in Rome’s food scene?

The overpriced, pre-made pasta dishes served at restaurants with laminated menus in multiple languages. If a restaurant has a picture of the food outside, walk past it. The best meals in Rome don’t need advertising.

Eating Rome, one neighborhood at a time

I’ve been coming to Rome for years, and I still find new places every trip. What I’ve learned is that the city’s food scene rewards curiosity and patience. The best meal I had this trip wasn’t at a famous restaurant — it was a plate of pasta at a trattoria in Testaccio, eaten at a counter, with a glass of house wine and no one rushing me. That’s the Rome I keep coming back for. For more on navigating the city’s food scene, check out my guide to Rome’s hidden foodie gems.

Sources and further reading

Thrillist. “A Food Lover’s Rome Itinerary.” 2025. 🔗

Katie Parla. “Rome Food Tours.” 2025. 🔗

Testaccio Market. “Official Site.” 🔗

The Jerry Thomas Speakeasy. “Reservations.” 🔗

Related reading on Emily in Italy

Rome’s Best Roman Pasta Spots You Need to Try — A focused guide to the city’s top cacio e pepe, amatriciana, and carbonara, with tips on where to find them without the tourist markup.

Rome Early Eats and Chestnuts Tour — A seasonal walk through Rome’s autumn food scene, including chestnut vendors, early dinner spots, and the best places for a warm snack on a cool evening.

Hidden Courtyards of Rome That Most Tourists Walk Right Past — A guide to the quiet, beautiful courtyards tucked away behind Rome’s busiest streets — perfect for a peaceful break between meals.

Rome’s Special October Sunsets and What to See — A seasonal guide to Rome in autumn, including sunset viewpoints, seasonal foods, and how to avoid the summer crowds.