I rounded the corner onto Via del Portico d’Ottavia and stopped. The smell of frying artichokes hit me before I saw the fryer. A woman in a white apron was pressing a whole purple artichoke flat with a metal spatula, then dropping it into bubbling olive oil. That was my first real introduction to the Jewish Ghetto of Rome.
Rome’s Jewish community has been in Rome since at least 139 BC, longer than Christianity itself.
That fact alone made me rethink everything I thought I knew about Roman food. The Jewish Ghetto sits in Rione Sant’Angelo, near the Tiber River, within walking distance of Trastevere and the Vatican. It’s a compact neighborhood of cobblestone streets, historic piazzas, and the unmistakable Great Synagogue of Rome with its square aluminium dome. But most people come here to eat. And they should. This guide covers the history behind the food, the dishes you need to try, where to find them, and how to plan a morning or afternoon walk through the Ghetto. I wrote it for anyone who wants to eat well in Rome and understand the story behind the plate.
Yes, the Jewish Ghetto is absolutely worth visiting for food. The dishes here aren’t just good — they’re foundational to Roman cuisine itself. Skip the tourist traps near the Colosseum and come here instead.
Food Lovers
History Buffs
Families Who Like to Walk and Eat
A History You Can Taste on Every Plate
The food of the Roman Jewish Ghetto was born from restriction, poverty, and a deep refusal to give up flavor.
Pope Paul IV established the Ghetto in 1555 through the papal bull Cum Nimis Absurdum. Jews were forced to live within a bounded quarter near the Portico d’Ottavia, wear yellow badges, and sell goods only as rag-and-bone merchants. The gates were locked at night. Around 4,000 people were confined to a few city blocks that frequently flooded. The Ghetto was abolished briefly by Napoleonic forces in 1798, then definitively in 1809 when the French occupied Rome. The walls were finally demolished after 1870, when the unified Italian state took control of the city.
The constraints of that life shaped the cuisine. The prohibition on pork meant Jewish cooks relied on olive oil instead of the lard and butter used elsewhere in Rome. Shabbat restrictions — no cooking on Saturday — led to dishes prepared on Friday that could be eaten cold or reheated the next day. Poverty and limited space demanded creativity. Proximity to the Tiber and the fish market at Portico d’Ottavia gave access to fresh seafood. That combination produced a style of cooking that is now considered the backbone of Roman food. On 16 October 1943, more than 1,000 Jewish residents were rounded up from this neighborhood and deported to Auschwitz. Walking these streets today, you feel the weight of that history, but you also see a community that rebuilt and kept cooking.
The Dishes You Came For, and Where to Find Them
I worked through the Ghetto’s signature plates over two days, and I’m ranking them by how likely you are to chase them down again after you leave Rome.
Carciofi alla Giudia is the undisputed star. It’s a whole Roman artichoke, pressed flat and deep-fried in olive oil until the leaves are brittle and the heart is tender. It’s a dish that requires precision — too hot and it burns, too cold and it’s greasy. The best version I had was at Nonna Betta, on Via del Portico d’Ottavia 16. It costs around €14 as a primo. The artichoke arrives whole, looking like a golden sunflower, and you peel the leaves off one by one, dipping them in the oil left on the plate. My seven-year-old Lily, who usually refuses vegetables, ate half of mine. That’s the power of frying.
Filetti di Baccalà — fried salt cod — is the street food version of the same philosophy. A stand near the Portico d’Ottavia ruins sells pieces for €2 to €3 each. You get a flaky, salty, impossibly light rectangle of fish, fried to order and served in a paper cone. It’s the best €2.50 you’ll spend in Rome. Stand at the counter, eat it while it’s hot, and watch the neighborhood wake up.
Torta di Ricotta e Visciole is a ricotta and sour cherry tart from Boccione bakery, at Via del Portico d’Ottavia 1. This is the place you need to plan around. Boccione is cash only, and the torta sells out by mid-morning. I got there at 9:30 AM and grabbed the second-to-last slice. The ricotta is creamy, the sour cherries add a sharp sweetness, and the crust is thin and almost burnt in places — that’s intentional. The bakery has been operating for generations and doesn’t see the need to change. I respect that.
Fiori di Zucca Fritti — fried zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and anchovy — are a summer specialty. Sora Margherita, at Piazza delle Cinque Scole 30, serves them. Cash only, ring the bell to enter, and they’re only available in summer. The combination of light, crispy batter, creamy ricotta, and salty anchovy is one of those things that makes you wonder why anyone eats anywhere else.
Hit Boccione first, before 10 AM. Then walk to the baccalà stand around 11 AM for a mid-morning snack. Save Nonna Betta for lunch. This order minimizes waiting and maximizes freshness.
A Self-Guided Morning Food Walk
I mapped out a route that hits the essential stops in a logical order, without backtracking. Here’s how I did it.
This ruined Roman arcade from 27 BCE marks the entrance to the old Ghetto. It served as Rome’s fish market for about 800 years. Read the inscription above the gateway — it required fishermen to present large fish to municipal authorities. Then walk through the arch and into the neighborhood. Turismo Roma has more on the history here.
Walk 30 seconds from the Portico to Boccione. Order one slice of torta di ricotta e visciole and one pizza ebraica. Pay in cash. Eat standing outside. Take a photo of the storefront — it hasn’t changed in decades.
Head back toward the Portico ruins. The baccalà stand is a small counter operation, easy to miss. Look for the queue. Order one piece per person. Eat immediately. The texture is crisp on the outside, soft and flaky inside.
For a sit-down meal, Nonna Betta is the choice for carciofi alla giudia and pasta. Ba’Ghetto, which opened in 2007, has two locations on the same street — one meat, one dairy — both certified by the Rome Rabbinate. The meat side serves grilled lamb and carciofi; the dairy side has pasta and tiramisu. Make a reservation for either.
The Great Synagogue of Rome, built in 1904, blends Historicism and Art Nouveau. Its square dome is visible from the Tiber. The attached Jewish Museum of Rome holds artifacts covering archaeological and cultural history. Guided tours are available. Allow one hour.
Most restaurants in the Ghetto close Friday afternoon and reopen Saturday night for Shabbat. Plan your visit Sunday through Thursday for the widest selection of open kitchens. Saturday night is lively, with many places reopening after sundown.
Beyond the Plate: What Else the Ghetto Holds
The food is the draw, but the neighborhood itself is worth a slower look.
The Portico d’Ottavia was originally built by Q. Caecilius Metellus in 146 BC and rebuilt by Augustus in 23 BC in honor of his sister Octavia. Four surviving columns and fragments of the pediment remain. For about 800 years in the medieval period, the enclosed space served as Rome’s fish market. The Jewish community’s presence in this area predates the Ghetto by more than 1,000 years, and the proximity to the fish market and the Tiber was economically important.
Look down as you walk. The Stolpersteine — brass plaques embedded in the cobblestones — commemorate victims of the Nazi regime. They are concentrated on Via della Reginella. Each one names a person who was deported from that address. The Fontana delle Tartarughe (Turtle Fountain) is a small, elegant fountain in Piazza Mattei, worth a quick stop. The Teatro Marcello, an open-air theater from 13 BCE, sits at the edge of the Ghetto and is often compared to a smaller Colosseum. The Jewish Catacombs of Vigna Randanini, on the Via Appia, contain burial chambers from the 2nd to 4th centuries CE with Jewish symbols. Those require a separate trip south of the city center.
Meat or Dairy? Choosing Your Ba’Ghetto
Ba’Ghetto runs two separate restaurants on the same street, and which one you choose depends on what you’re craving.
| Ba’Ghetto Meat | Ba’Ghetto Milky (Dairy) | |
|---|---|---|
| Best for | Grilled lamb, beef stracotto, carciofi alla giudia | Pasta, tiramisu, vegetable dishes |
| Kosher certification | Rome Rabbinate | Rome Rabbinate |
| Atmosphere | Warm, wood-heavy, traditional | Lighter, brighter, more casual |
| Key dish | Abbacchio with potatoes | Spaghetti alla carbonara (kosher version) |
| Kid-friendly | Yes — grilled meats are easy to share | Yes — pasta is always a hit with kids |
Both locations are on Via del Portico d’Ottavia, a few doors apart. I visited the meat side with Michael and the kids. Ethan loved the lamb. Lily ate the artichoke. I’d go back to the dairy side on my own for the pasta.
If you’re traveling with kids, the dairy side is the easier choice. Pasta is a safe bet, and the tiramisu is a guaranteed win. The meat side works better for a dinner without children, when you can take your time with the grilled lamb.
What to Know Before You Visit the Jewish Ghetto
Is the Ghetto open every day?
The neighborhood is open 24/7 as a public area. Restaurants and shops follow their own schedules. Most close Friday afternoon for Shabbat and reopen Saturday night. Daytime visits are the most rewarding.
Bus 64 from Nazionale/Torino to Argentina gets you close. From there it’s a short walk. The nearest tram stop is Largo Argentina.
How much cash should I bring?
Boccione is cash only. The baccalà stand is cash only. Sora Margherita is cash only. Bring at least €30 in small bills if you plan to hit multiple food stops. Most sit-down restaurants accept cards.
ATMs are available in the neighborhood but carry the usual fees. Better to arrive prepared.
Is the Ghetto overrated or overrun with tourists?
It’s less crowded than Trastevere or the area around the Pantheon, but it’s not hidden. Midday between April and June can be busy. Arrive before 10 AM for a quieter experience. The food is not overrated — it’s legitimately some of the best in Rome, and the prices reflect the quality, not a tourist markup.
That said, you will see groups on food tours. The neighborhood is compact, so it can feel tight when multiple tours overlap. Go early or go on a weekday.
What’s the best time of year to visit for food?
April through June and September through October are ideal. Artichokes are in season in spring, which is when carciofi alla giudia is at its peak. Summer brings fiori di zucca. Winter is quieter but the baccalà and baked goods are always available.
August is hot and some restaurants close for holiday. Call ahead or check online before planning a food-focused trip.
Can I bring kids to the Ghetto?
Yes. The walkable layout and street food make it one of the more kid-friendly food destinations in Rome. The baccalà and artichokes are easy to share, and the bakeries are a hit. Strollers work on the main streets, but some of the narrower alleys and cobblestones can be tricky.
I brought Lily and Ethan, and they ate well. The trick is to move fast between stops and let them graze rather than sit through a long meal.
Why the Ghetto Stays With You
I keep thinking about that first artichoke. Not just the crunch or the salt or the olive oil, but the fact that the woman frying it was doing exactly what her grandmother did, in the same neighborhood, using the same technique. The Jewish Ghetto of Rome is not a museum. It’s a living, breathing, frying, baking neighborhood that has been feeding people for centuries. The food is exceptional, but the reason it matters is the story behind it. If you want to understand Roman cooking, you have to start here. For more Roman food recommendations, including spots near the Spanish Steps, I have a separate guide here.
Sources and further reading
Eating Europe. “Jewish Ghetto Rome.” 🔗
Italy Planner. “Rome Jewish Ghetto Food Walk.” 🔗
Kosher Travel Deals. “Rome Jewish Food Trail.” 🔗
Turismo Roma. “The Old Jewish Quarter.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Best Things to Do in Rome with Kids — A family-focused guide to Rome’s most engaging attractions, with tips on pacing and kid-friendly dining.
Packing for Rome in June: What to Wear — Practical wardrobe advice for the Roman summer, including what works for long days of walking and eating.
Rome in August Is Surprisingly Quiet and Pleasant — A counterintuitive take on summer travel, with honest observations about crowds, heat, and restaurant closures.
Rome Day Trips: Discover Tivoli’s Villa d’Este — A day trip option outside the city, with details on fountains, gardens, and how to combine it with a Rome itinerary.