You might think Sardinia is tiny, but the island is much bigger than it first appears. Planning a trip meant understanding its vastness; trying to do day trips from one end to another proved impractical for a short visit. Instead, focusing on a specific region offers a much more rewarding experience.
Exploring Costa Smeralda
Costa Smeralda in northeastern Sardinia is known for its stunning coastline and, at times, its exclusive atmosphere. However, visiting at the tail end of the season reveals a quieter side, offering a chance to enjoy its beauty without the usual crowds. This approach allows for a more relaxed and personal connection with the place.
Getting Around Effectively
Arriving at Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport, you’ll find direct flights from various Italian cities and Barcelona. To truly explore this spread-out region, renting a car is essential. The roads can be winding, and you might even encounter unexpected wildlife, so a vehicle you’re comfortable driving is key.
Discovering Ancient Sardinia
Nuraghe La Prisgiona
Sardinia’s history is deeply tied to its nuraghi, ancient stone structures dating back thousands of years. These megalithic complexes are found across the island and represent the advanced Nuragic civilization from the Bronze Age. Nuraghe La Prisgiona is a significant site near Costa Smeralda, featuring a large tower and the remains of many ancient huts.
After exploring the nuraghe, a short walk or drive leads to Coddu ‘Ecchju, a notable example of Nuragic funerary architecture. These sites offer a fascinating glimpse into pre-Roman life on the island and are essential for understanding Sardinia’s unique heritage.
La Maddalena Archipelago
A short 15-minute ferry ride from Palau brings you to the La Maddalena archipelago, a national park renowned for its natural beauty. This chain of islands, including the main island of La Maddalena, offers incredible coastal scenery and historical sites. You can bring your car aboard the ferry for easy exploration.
On Caprera, you can visit the home of Giuseppe Garibaldi, a significant figure in Italian history. Don’t miss the famous Spiaggia Rosa (Pink Beach) on Budelli, known for its distinctive colored sand. The rugged shores of Cala Napoletana also provide opportunities for scenic hikes and quiet contemplation.
Charming Local Villages
San Pantaleo
San Pantaleo offers a different pace compared to some of the more glamorous spots in Costa Smeralda. This village has a more artistic and local feel, with charming shops selling handcrafted items. You can find beautiful locally made fabrics and unique jewelry.
After browsing the unique shops, relax at Caffè Nina. This local favorite is a great place to enjoy snacks, a variety of Italian wines, and expertly made cocktails. The village itself, with its flower-adorned buildings, invites leisurely strolls.
Chiesa di Stella Maris
Overlooking Porto Cervo, the Church of Stella Maris is an architecturally distinctive landmark. Designed in the 1960s, its white-washed, curved walls hold interesting details, such as a holy water font shaped like a seashell. The interior design feels both unique and spiritual.
Local Flavors and Shopping
Olbia Essentials
While Olbia serves as the gateway airport, it also offers notable shopping opportunities. Visit Sardartis S.r.l. for a wide selection of local Sardinian crafts, including ceramics, linens, and knives, which are a significant part of the island’s heritage. It’s a great place to find authentic souvenirs.
Another must-visit in Olbia is Spazio Conad. This Italian grocery store is a treasure trove of local delicacies. You can pick up Sardinian pecorino cheese, Parmigiano-Reggiano, local pasta like malloreddus, and traditional crackers such as toketti. It’s an excellent spot to experience the island’s culinary offerings.
Dining Experiences
Beachfront Bites
For a truly unique dining experience, Marco Grill & Bar offers tables right on the sand. You can enjoy everything from coffee and pastries to delicious seafood dishes, including fregola with pistachios. The setting is ideal for a relaxed meal by the sea.
Modern Sardinian Cuisine
At Frades La Terrazza, traditional Sardinian ingredients are transformed with a modern culinary approach. You can try innovative dishes like pane lentu tacos with red shrimp and avocado, or beef tartare with sea snails. The chef’s creativity highlights the freshness of local produce.
Authentic Suckling Pig
No trip to Sardinia is complete without trying spit-roasted suckling pig. La Colti Agriturismo is renowned for serving one of the best. Consider their tasting menu, which showcases dishes made with ingredients from their estate, or participate in a cooking class to learn their techniques firsthand.
Global Influences
If you’re looking for a change of pace, Pacifico Rosemary offers Nikkei (Japanese-Peruvian) cuisine and creative cocktails. For lively evenings, Ami Restaurant provides great drinks alongside live entertainment, creating a fun atmosphere for a night out.
Exquisite Accommodations
Abi d’Oru
Abi d’Oru stands out with its attention to detail, including staff uniforms designed by a Sardinian native. The hotel boasts an enviable location with open-air hallways and rooms offering sea views, especially those with terraces. You can enjoy the sea breeze and the beautiful scenery.
The property features three excellent restaurants. Marinella, a beachfront option, specializes in seafood and recommended dishes like fish tartare. Tzia Maria offers pizzas, pastas, and steaks. Evenings are best spent at the lobby and terrace bar, sipping signature cocktails like the Sardinian Martini while enjoying live music.
What activities can you do at Abi d’Oru?
You can spend an afternoon by the awesome pool, perhaps enjoying a spritz made with local Sardinian aperitivo. The beach is a major highlight, perfect for lounging on fine white sand, swimming in the turquoise water, or trying activities like canoeing and stand-up paddleboarding.
7Pines Resort Sardinia
7Pines Resort Sardinia offers stylish and comfortable rooms, many featuring private terraces with bay views. The decor incorporates locally made ceramics, adding a touch of Sardinian artistry to the modern design. Rooms higher on the hill provide the best vistas.
Dining at Spazio by Franco Pepe offers some of the best pizza, known for its unique preparation. At Capogiro, the focus is on hyper-local ingredients, ensuring a true taste of Sardinia. The suckling pig dish served here is particularly recommended and pairs well with local wines.
What is the beach like at 7Pines?
The beach at 7Pines is lovely and features comfortable cabanas for relaxing. You can also find secluded private coves for more privacy. The resort’s pool area is lively, with a bar immersed in the water, offering a fun place to enjoy refreshments.
My family and I found this part of Sardinia to be truly special. Michael loved exploring the ancient nuraghi, and even Lily, at seven, was fascinated by the scale of these historic structures. Ethan, my four-year-old, mostly enjoyed the wide-open spaces and the beach playtime at our hotel. It was a trip where everyone found something to appreciate, from the history to the natural beauty and the delicious food. It’s a destination that offers a rich experience for all.