traditional

I’m standing at the counter of a tiny trattoria in the Brera district, watching the cook slide a veal cutlet into a pan of bubbling butter. The sizzle is immediate, the smell rich and nutty. That moment — the sound, the scent, the anticipation — is what I think of when I picture Milan’s food. Not the fashion runways or the Duomo’s spires, but the deep, butter-soaked, slow-cooked dishes that have defined this city for centuries. Milan’s traditional cuisine is