My husband and I spent an afternoon last summer on a beach in Sperlonga, sharing a plate of fried anchovies and watching families swim in water so clear it barely looked real. Emperor Tiberius picked this same stretch of Lazio coast for his personal retreat nearly two thousand years ago, and you could still feel why. The difference between Sperlonga and, say, Positano on a July afternoon is the difference between a secret and a headline. These are the towns worth finding before the headlines catch up.
Liguria’s quieter coast: Tellaro and Camogli
Both towns sit within easy reach of better-known neighbors, but they operate at a completely different pace.
Tellaro barely registers on most maps. It’s a tiny fishing village near Lerici on the Gulf of Poets, with pink and yellow houses stacked so close to the water you could nearly touch the sea from a bedroom window. The narrow stone lanes force you to slow down. There’s no train station, no crowds unloading from buses, and no gift shops selling the same ceramic trinket in three sizes. The official Liguria tourism guide highlights Tellaro’s literary associations and local traditions, including the Octopus Festival (Sagra del Polpo) held the second Sunday of August. The beaches here are mostly rocky coves, but sandy stretches at Fiascherino are a short walk away.
Camogli, about an hour east, is what Portofino might have been before the yacht crowd took over. A broad crescent of pebbly beach faces a row of tall pastel buildings, and the waterfront feels like it belongs to the people who live there — fishermen mending nets, kids jumping off rocks, elderly couples sharing a bench in the late afternoon sun. A path climbs to the San Rocco church for panoramic views across the Ligurian Sea. Just offshore, the 10th-century abbey of San Fruttuoso sits on a tiny beach reachable only by boat or hiking trail.
Lazio’s under-the-radar coast: Sperlonga and Ponza
The stretch between Rome and Naples is lined with beach towns, but Sperlonga stands out for what it doesn’t have: the noise and density of its more famous neighbors. Whitewashed buildings climb a headland in a tangle of stairways and arched passageways, and the wide sandy beach below has shallow water that families with young children appreciate. Just outside town, the archaeological complex of Tiberius’s Villa — including the Sperlonga Cave — gives a glimpse into why a Roman emperor chose this spot. Sperlonga is roughly 90 minutes from Rome by train and bus, and it stays lively in summer without feeling overwhelmed.
Ponza, the largest of the Pontine Islands, takes a bit more effort to reach — hydrofoils run from Anzio, Terracina, and Formia in about 70 to 80 minutes — and that effort filters the crowds. The island is best experienced by boat, because its most beautiful beaches, including Chiaia di Luna and Cala Felce, are only accessible from the sea. The harbor town has pastel buildings, open-air bars, and restaurants serving seafood with little ceremony. Prices rise in high season, but Ponza remains one of the most relaxed island escapes within reach of Rome.
Campania beyond the Amalfi crush: Atrani, Praiano, and Forio
The Amalfi Coast draws visitors for good reason, but the experience can feel like a moving sidewalk in August. The towns immediately next door — or just across the water — offer the same dramatic setting without the shoulder-to-shoulder shuffle.
Atrani is Italy’s smallest commune, tucked between cliffs a few minutes’ walk from Amalfi’s Piazza Duomo. It has a pebbled beach, hidden lemon groves, and the Santa Maria del Bando chapel perched above the village. Couples come here for the quiet intimacy that the bigger towns have largely lost. Praiano, a few kilometers west, has terraced gardens tumbling toward the sea and a tradition of summer luminarie — strings of lights that illuminate the pathways on summer evenings. Both towns give you the Amalfi Coast views and cuisine without the sense that you’re queuing for them.
Forio, on the island of Ischia, offers something different entirely. Ischia has drawn visitors since ancient Greeks bathed in its natural thermal hot springs, and Forio is the island’s largest town. Its main beach, Spiaggia della Chiaia, has calm waters that work well for families. The town appears in Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, and parts of it still look much as they did in the 1960s. Ischia requires a ferry or hydrofoil from Naples, but once you’re there, the thermal parks — like Poseidon Thermal Gardens — give the trip a distinctly relaxing character.
Puglia’s dramatic coastline: Polignano a Mare, Vieste, and Otranto
Puglia’s Adriatic side delivers some of Italy’s most striking coastal scenery, and several towns along this stretch still feel manageable even in summer.
Polignano a Mare is the one that shows up on Instagram most often — whitewashed buildings on limestone cliffs, a tiny cove called Lama Monachile wedged between rock walls, and the famous Grotta Palazzese restaurant built into a cliffside cave. The secret is definitely out, but you can escape the thickest crowds by taking a boat tour of the caves and grottos with Pugliamare, or by grabbing a creative seafood sandwich at Pescaria rather than queuing for a table at the most photographed spots.
Vieste, on the Gargano Peninsula in northern Puglia, has long golden beaches, dramatic limestone sea stacks called Faraglioni, and the enormous monolith Pizzomunno that guards the main beach. The old town rises white and winding above the shore, and boat trips run to the Tremiti Islands offshore. Vieste has an energetic seaside feel without the polished-overload of some southern resort towns.
Otranto, the easternmost town in Italy, catches the first sunrise of the day. Its walled medieval center holds an Aragonese castle and a cathedral with a remarkable 12th-century mosaic floor depicting a medieval universe — a Tree of Life, Alexander the Great riding a griffin, and a whole symbolic cosmos in stone. The coastline around Otranto shifts from sandy beaches to rocky coves and cliffs, making it a strong base for exploring the southern tip of Salento.
Calabria and Basilicata: Tropea, Scilla, and Maratea
The southern regions of Calabria and Basilicata have some of Italy’s clearest water, most affordable prices, and fewest international crowds. That combination won’t stay secret forever.
Tropea, nicknamed the Pearl of the Tyrrhenian, sits on a cliff above a beach of golden sand and turquoise water. The historic center has narrow streets, baroque balconies, and small restaurants serving the daily catch. The Sanctuary of Santa Maria dell’Isola stands on a rocky promontory beside the beach. Tropea is famous across Italy for its sweet red onions, which show up in pasta, marmalade, and even liqueur. The town is designated one of the Borghi Più Belli d’Italia (most beautiful towns in Italy), and on clear days you can see the Aeolian Islands across the water.
Scilla, a short drive south, feels more like a working fishing village than a tourist destination. The old fishing district of Chianalea has houses built so close to the water that boats moor at front doors. The beach at Marina Grande has clear water and views toward Sicily. Local swordfish, caught in the Strait of Messina using traditional methods, is grilled with lemon and local olive oil — simple and unforgettable. Scilla remains relatively under the radar and makes an excellent base for exploring the entire Costa Viola.
Maratea, in Basilicata, is often called the Pearl of the Tyrrhenian Sea (a nickname it shares with Tropea, and both earn it). A statue of Christ the Redeemer towers above the town on Mount San Biagio, offering panoramic views over the Gulf of Policastro. The coastline mixes dramatic cliffs with hidden coves and pebbly beaches. The historic center sits above the water with medieval lanes and churches. Maratea won’t break the bank, and its summer vibe is lively without being chaotic.
Maratea, Tropea, and Scilla offer some of Italy’s clearest water, most affordable prices, and fewest international crowds — a combination that won’t stay secret forever.
Before you head to Italy’s quieter coast
When is the best time to visit these towns to avoid crowds?
Late June and early September offer warm weather, almost fully open services, and far fewer visitors than July or August. Weekdays are noticeably calmer than weekends. If you can only travel in peak summer, book accommodations 3 to 5 months ahead — smaller towns have limited rooms, and they sell out fast.
Which of these towns is most romantic for a couple?
For a special trip, Tropea and Maratea combine dramatic scenery with excellent food and a relaxed pace. For something more intimate, Tellaro or Atrani give you that tucked-away feeling without the premium price tag. If you want thermal spas and island atmosphere, Forio on Ischia is hard to beat.
Do I need a car to visit these towns?
Not necessarily. Sperlonga is reachable from Rome by train and bus. Ponza and Ischia require ferries or hydrofoils. Tellaro works best with a car or taxi from a train station in Lerici or La Spezia. Tropea and Scilla have train stations. Maratea is easier with a car. Check ferry schedules and train connections before you go — some routes are seasonal.
Are these towns expensive?
Generally, no. Tropea, Scilla, Maratea, and Pizzo in the south are notably affordable compared to the Amalfi Coast or Cinque Terre. Ponza and Ischia get pricier in high season but still undercut Capri. Sperlonga and Camogli sit somewhere in the middle — not cheap, but not punishing either.
Why these towns deserve your trip right now
The best reason to visit these coastal towns isn’t just that they haven’t been overrun yet. It’s that they offer something the crowded icons have mostly lost: the sense that you’ve arrived somewhere that still belongs to itself. The fishermen in Scilla who still set out before dawn, the family in Camogli sharing a table at a waterfront trattoria, the elderly woman hanging laundry above a lane in Tropea — they’re not performing “Italian life” for visitors. They’re just living it. Go before the equation flips, and while the biggest decision you have to make at dinner is between the spaghetti with clams and the grilled swordfish.
Sources and further reading
Borghi Più Belli d’Italia. “Tropea.” 🔗
Liguria Tourism Guide. “Lerici and Tellaro.” 🔗
Pugliamare. “Boat Tours.” 🔗
UNESCO World Heritage Centre. “Costiera Amalfitana.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
The reason these lemons dwarf every other lemon in Italy — a closer look at the Amalfi Coast’s famous giant lemons and why they matter for travelers.