Italy is a country that continues to surprise me, especially when it comes to its culinary heritage. While I’ve explored many regions, my recent journey focused on understanding the foundations of modern Italian cooking, particularly through the lens of one of its most influential figures. This exploration took me back to Milan, a city that always feels effortlessly stylish and deeply connected to its cultural roots. It’s a place where history feels alive, and where tradition meets innovation in the most delicious ways.
Milan’s Culinary Evolution
My visit offered a deep dive into the evolution of Italian cuisine, moving beyond just the popular dishes to understand the thinking behind them. It’s fascinating to see how a single individual’s work can shape an entire culinary landscape, influencing everything from humble trattorias to high-end establishments. Understanding these shifts provides a much richer appreciation for the food you experience as a traveler.
The city of Milan itself is a dynamic environment, and its food scene reflects this. Experiencing its cafes and restaurants provides a direct connection to this ongoing culinary conversation. It’s not just about eating; it’s about understanding the context, the history, and the passion that goes into each plate.
The Marchesi Legacy
At the heart of this culinary exploration is the late Gualtiero Marchesi. He is described as a true investigator of established culinary knowledge, a figure whose influence still resonates powerfully. Marchesi’s approach wasn’t just about creating new recipes, but about re-examining the very principles of cooking and nutrition. His work has inspired countless chefs and continues to encourage a deeper study of food.
His early life in hospitality, with family roots in hotels and restaurants, provided a strong foundation. His time in St. Moritz exposed him to a sophisticated international clientele, sparking a desire to refine his education. Attending the Lucerne Hotel School was a significant step, building his technical skills and knowledge, which he then brought back to Italy.
Marchesi’s dedication to learning and exploration was a defining trait. He sought to broaden his horizons by immersing himself in French cuisine, which was a major benchmark at the time. His time in Roanne with the Troisgros brothers, pioneers of nouvelle cuisine, was particularly impactful, shaping his vision for a more refined and innovative approach.
Early Milanese Milestones
The opening of his first restaurant in Milan in 1977 marked a pivotal moment. Within months, it received a Michelin star, a testament to his meticulous attention to every detail. From the dining room’s atmosphere to the presentation of the dishes, nothing was overlooked. This commitment to aesthetic perfection extended to his design work, creating innovative lines of cutlery, plates, and glasses, believing that beauty should be integral to the entire dining experience.
His cuisine itself was revolutionary, characterized by its vibrant use of color, making dishes visually arresting and stimulating to the senses. This approach sparked curiosity and educated diners, pushing the boundaries of what Italian cuisine could be. Milan’s food culture was undergoing its own renaissance during this period, with publications like “Il Grembiule” championing innovation and culinary exploration over conventional reviews.
A Quest for Excellence
In 1985, his Milanese restaurant achieved a historic milestone, becoming the first in Italy to earn three Michelin stars. This recognition underscored his status as a leading culinary innovator. Later, he relocated his restaurant to Erbusco in Franciacorta, and eventually returned to Milan with a new venture. Notably, in 2008, he relinquished his Michelin stars, expressing disagreement with the scoring system, a move that highlighted his independent spirit and commitment to his own principles over accolades.
Marchesi always preferred to be called a “cook” rather than a “chef,” emphasizing his dedication to the craft and the ingredients. His kitchens were also places of profound education, welcoming young talent and fostering an environment for individual artistic expression. He saw himself as a mentor, guiding students to develop their own unique culinary voices rather than adhering to a rigid system.
The ALMA Connection
His educational role expanded significantly with his involvement at ALMA, the prestigious International School of Italian Cuisine in Colorno, Parma. Here, he served as president, acting more as a guiding spirit and revered figurehead than a traditional administrator. His presence at ALMA aimed to solidify the study and preservation of Italian culinary traditions for future generations.
It was during the organization of an exhibition honoring Luigi Veronelli, a pioneer of Italian food and wine criticism, that I had the chance to experience Marchesi’s cultural depth firsthand. A masterclass he attended in Bergamo, dedicated to Russian avant-garde artists like Kazimir Malevich, revealed his broad intellectual curiosity. He seamlessly connected art, music, literature, and cuisine, viewing them all as expressions of human creativity.
What defines a great cook
Philosophy of the Plate
Marchesi articulated core tenets that still resonate today. He believed a cook must be a dedicated student, showing deep respect for ingredients and mastering techniques, while never ceasing to learn. This profession, he stressed, demands constant curiosity. The initial focus must be on understanding and respecting cooking methods, followed by the development of a personal, consistent path.
He viewed a cook not as an “artist of food” but as a “custodian.” The primary role is to cook, and to maintain standards of health and quality. His embrace of arts like painting, sculpture, and music clearly influenced him, fostering an understanding that art and science are not separate but interconnected. True art, he suggested, requires ideal tension and meticulous control, not chaos.
Transgression, for Marchesi, meant breaking clichés, not technique. He strongly disliked exaggeration that masked the true nature of things. His cuisine prioritized the integrity of high-quality ingredients, allowing their essential flavors to shine. He favored “subtracting” over “adding” to achieve purity. For him, the ultimate luxury was simplicity, a difficult achievement that should never be mistaken for banality.
The Iconic Riso Oro e Zafferano
One of his most celebrated dishes, Riso Oro e Zafferano (Gold and Saffron Rice), exemplifies his philosophy. He pointed out that while his risotto might be copied, the authentic version carries his unique touch, much like a musical performance. Even his own preparation of the dish could vary slightly, reflecting the spontaneous execution akin to a musician playing a score.
This led him to discuss intellectual property rights in cuisine. He made the “copyright” of his Riso e Zafferano his mission, advocating for the protection of culinary creations, a concept that, at the time, had limited legal standing. His approach was akin to Paganini, who didn’t just repeat but remade each performance.
Enduring Influence and Legacy
The Gualtiero Marchesi Foundation was established on his eightieth birthday in 2010, aiming to preserve and promote his extensive work. The foundation embraces the idea that “beauty is goodness,” making cuisine a subject of study and commemoration. It endeavors to attract students, chefs, and professionals from around the world, ensuring his contributions to Italian gastronomy are remembered and built upon.
Where can I taste Marchesi’s influence
My journey through the world of Gualtiero Marchesi has been incredibly eye-opening. It’s a reminder that true culinary mastery comes from a deep understanding of history, a relentless pursuit of knowledge, and an unwavering commitment to your own artistic vision. I encourage you to explore the restaurants and culinary schools influenced by his approach when you visit Milan and the surrounding regions.