The western Ligurian Riviera offers a beautiful Italian escape, with colorful towns, sandy beaches, and inviting historic centers. It’s a region where you can experience Italy without the overwhelming crowds often found in more famous spots. This part of the coast, west of Genoa, provides a more relaxed and authentic holiday, popular with Italians themselves.
Discovering the West Coast
Forget the packed tourist trails and tiny beaches of the east. Head west from Genoa, and you’ll find a different kind of Riviera. Here, the landscape is just as stunning, with picturesque houses clinging to hillsides, but the atmosphere is more laid-back. The towns boast bigger, sandier beaches, and the hiking paths offer equally magnificent views, yet without the constant stream of visitors.
This area is rich in history, with medieval towns, art galleries, and museums waiting to be explored. It feels like a place where real life happens, not just a destination for tourists. During a recent week-long visit, the sounds of Italian voices filled the air, a refreshing change from the typical tourist chatter.
A specific stretch of coast, from Varigotti to Imperia, is particularly recommended. This area, known as Costa Gallinara, includes charming towns like Alassio, Albenga, and Laigueglia, all offering beautiful views, especially towards Gallinara Island. It’s a cluster of places that could easily rival more famous Italian destinations.
Albenga’s Historic Charm
Albenga is easily reached by train from Genoa, a journey of about 90 minutes. It’s often called “little Lucca” because of its beautifully preserved medieval old town. This historic heart is surrounded by ancient walls, forming a maze of narrow, cobbled lanes. Old stone buildings line the streets, topped by towers that pierce the skyline. Ivy climbs up faded walls, and Roman artifacts, like mosaics and the remains of an amphitheater, are found alongside Gothic churches.
The town has a lively feel, with everyday life unfolding around you. You won’t find a dedicated tourist center; instead, you walk through streets filled with boutiques and bars where locals gather. While the seafront might not be as dramatically scenic as some other Riviera spots, the beach here is much more spacious and less crowded.
History buffs will find plenty to admire. The 5th-century baptistry, the oldest building in Liguria, is a must-see. The Diocesan Museum houses impressive medieval paintings and tapestries. Exploring these sites, you start to feel a deep connection to centuries of history that still resonates today.
Where to Stay in Albenga
Staying in the historic center of Albenga puts you right in the middle of the action. Consider apartments like the ones at Baba Residences. These often feature exposed brickwork and wooden beams, giving them a cozy, traditional feel. They are well-located for exploring on foot, blending historic charm with comfort.
For a different vibe, the Baba Beach Club offers a unique experience. Located on a private stretch of sand just outside the town, with views of Gallinara Island, it’s less about classic Italian style and more about a relaxed, bohemian atmosphere, reminiscent of places like Ibiza.
Dining in Albenga
Food is a highlight in Albenga. For a casual bite, Caffè d’Aste is well-known for its delicious bruschetta, served generously. For the perfect coffee, Antica Albenga is the place locals recommend for a truly creamy cappuccino.
Many local trattorias offer affordable three-course menus, often around €15, making it easy to enjoy authentic Italian meals without breaking the bank. For a more special dining experience, seek out cantina Re Carciofo. This restaurant has a magical courtyard filled with olive and lemon trees, where you can enjoy excellent food, including high-quality charcuterie, prepared under the guidance of a chef with Michelin-star experience.
Meat lovers should not miss Nino’s Brâxerîe. It’s a popular spot for its incredible meat dishes, including large steaks and flavorful skewers. It’s located in a quiet square within the historic center, adding to its local appeal.
For a memorable meal with a view, Tenuta Columbera, south of the city, is highly recommended. This 16th-century mansion sits in a valley dotted with vineyards and olive groves, offering seasonal Ligurian cuisine in a fine-dining setting that remains relaxed. Dining here, especially on the lawn with sea views, is an experience to cherish. The wild herb ravioli with local cheese, lemon, and anchovies is a standout dish.
Alassio’s Coastal Elegance
A short drive or train ride from Albenga brings you to Alassio. While a taxi can be pricey, the train is quick and inexpensive. For a truly scenic arrival, consider the Via Iulia Augusta, a well-preserved Roman road lined with olive trees. For hikers, the Sentiero dell’Onda offers more challenging trails with breathtaking elevated views.
Alassio presents a more polished, classic Italian seaside charm. Its waterfront is characterized by pastel-colored buildings housing hotels and restaurants, all overlooking a beautiful, fine sandy beach. The town is marked by a Hollywood-style sign on the hillside, announcing its presence.
The town has more developed tourist facilities than Albenga. Its main pedestrian street, known locally as “Il Budello,” is a 2km stretch filled with shops, delis, and cafes housed in tall, terracotta-colored buildings. It’s a great place for fashion and souvenir shopping, with unique finds like handcrafted glass from VAG Vetri Aldo Giannone.
Alassio also holds a piece of cultural history with the Muretto wall. This wall is adorned with the signatures of many artists, writers, including Hemingway, and celebrities who used to frequent this cafe-society hub back in the 1950s.
Even with its popularity, Alassio doesn’t suffer from the extreme overcrowding seen elsewhere. While summer sees a significant number of visitors, it’s a fraction of the numbers in places like the Cinque Terre, maintaining a pleasant, well-populated rather than overwhelming atmosphere.
The town has a history of welcoming international visitors, particularly the British nobility who built villas in the hills during the late 19th century to enjoy the mild winters. The Villa della Pergola, with its award-winning botanical gardens, is a prime example of this elegant past.
Dining and Relaxation in Alassio
Alassio is home to Michelin-starred dining, including Nove, located at Villa della Pergola. Dining on its terrace with views of the Ligurian Sea is an unforgettable experience. Here, you can enjoy expertly prepared seafood dishes, like lightly seared swordfish, paired with local wines.
For accommodation, the Grand Hotel Alassio is a standout. This elegant neoclassical building sits right on the seafront, boasting a luxurious spa and overlooking the longest sandy beach on the Riviera, stretching for 4km. During summer, this beach is lined with sunbeds and changing cabins, popular with holidaying Italians. However, from September onwards, you can enjoy long, peaceful walks along the entire stretch of sand.
Alassio enjoys a unique microclimate, often a few degrees warmer than its neighbors thanks to the surrounding hills. This mild weather even inspired a special activity called “wave walking” on the seabed. It’s described as a great workout that leaves you tired but without any strain.
Exploring Smaller Villages
South of Alassio, you’ll find smaller, equally charming villages. Laigueglia is like a miniature version of Alassio, with soft sandy beaches, colorful houses along the waterfront, and its own pedestrian street offering shops and cafes.
Above Laigueglia, the Michelin-starred restaurant Vingamare offers a luxurious spot for an aperitivo, with spectacular views and farm-to-table dining. It’s a perfect place to relax and soak in the scenery.
Cervo is another delightful village, perched on a steep hill overlooking the sea. Its winding cobblestone alleys lead to charming cafes, and its magnificent Baroque church is a focal point. Locals gather by the rocks to swim and sunbathe.
The walled medieval town of Finalborgo is a real gem. It has a lovely, sunny atmosphere and is a hub for cycling and rock climbing enthusiasts exploring the nearby trails. It feels like a tranquil corner of the Riviera, with historic buildings like a Renaissance town hall, medieval gates, and palaces.
Final Ligure also offers one of the few public beaches on the Riviera, so you can enjoy the sand and sea without charge. The mix of history, natural beauty, and active pursuits makes this area very appealing.
Other notable villages include Varigotti, famous for its picturesque houses painted in shades of ochre and pink. Pieve di Teco, a quiet medieval village near the Piedmont border, features a large 18th-century church and hosts a monthly antiques market. Bussana Vecchia is a unique village, once abandoned, that was brought back to life by an artist colony in the 1960s.
Getting Around the Riviera
The train line between Genoa and Ventimiglia connects many of the larger seaside towns, including Albenga, Alassio, and Finale Ligure. For reaching smaller villages and exploring more freely, local buses and taxis are available. Renting a car can also be a convenient way to join the dots and discover more hidden spots.
Why Visit in 2026
The western Ligurian Riviera offers a more genuine Italian experience compared to its busier counterparts. Its lack of international overcrowding makes it a perfect destination for a more relaxed holiday. Visiting now, especially as the summer crowds begin to thin, allows you to enjoy the beauty and culture of the region at a more leisurely pace. The mild climate also makes it an ideal spot for a September or October escape, offering pleasant weather for exploring and enjoying the coast.
My family and I found that exploring these coastal towns together was a wonderful way to connect. Watching Lily and Ethan build sandcastles on the long beach in Alassio, while Michael and I enjoyed the sunshine, felt like a perfectly captured Italian moment. The simplicity of the days, filled with exploring historic streets and enjoying delicious gelato, made for a truly memorable trip.
Consider exploring this region for your next Italian adventure. You’ll find beautiful scenery, rich history, and a warm welcome, all without the overwhelming crowds. It’s a place that truly allows you to experience the heart of the Italian Riviera.