Stresa Offers Lakeside Calm Away From Tourist Crowds

Stresa, a town situated on the shores of Lake Maggiore, offers more than just access to the famed Borromean Islands. While the islands with their baroque architecture and botanical gardens are a significant draw, Stresa itself provides a delightful experience. You can arrive in Stresa as part of a tour that also explores Switzerland, with previous stops including Lake Como, another Italian gem, and Lugano in Switzerland. Stresa sits at an altitude of 200 meters, but its atmosphere evokes that of an elegant seaside resort.

Many visitors opt for excursions to Isola Bella’s ornate palace and terraced gardens, a paid-for optional activity. For those who choose to remain in Stresa, the lakeside promenade offers a pleasant alternative. This well-maintained promenade features manicured lawns, flowerbeds, sculptures, and grand properties overlooking the lake. Some of these buildings were originally private residences, such as Villa Ducale, built in 1771 for Giacomo Filippo Bolongaro, a local businessman who amassed his wealth in the tobacco industry. This villa now houses the Rosmini Museum, dedicated to Antonio Rosmini, a respected priest and philosopher who resided there between 1850 and 1855.

Stresa has transitioned from a humble fishing village into an appealing resort for affluent Europeans. A notable development in the latter half of the 20th century was the opening of the Grand Hotel des Iles Borromees. This five-star hotel continues to impress with its palatial Art Nouveau exterior. American guests, in particular, are known to follow in the footsteps of Ernest Hemingway, who stayed at the hotel while recovering from injuries sustained in World War I. He even mentioned the hotel in his novel “A Farewell To Arms.” Room 105, where Hemingway stayed, has been converted into the Hemingway Suite, offering panoramic views of the lake dotted with islands and the surrounding alpine backdrop.

The cinematic beauty of Stresa has attracted film directors, leading to its use as a filming location for several Italian movies. Beyond its aesthetic appeal, the town has also witnessed tragic events. In 1943, Stresa was among the locations targeted for the “Lake Maggiore massacres,” where Nazi SS troops executed Jewish individuals. More recently, in 2021, a cable car disaster occurred when a car snapped and plummeted as it ascended from Stresa towards Mottarone, a summit over 1,400 meters above the town, resulting in 14 fatalities.

Exploring Stresa’s compact center reveals its local character and offerings.

Exploring Stresa’s Old Town

Looking towards the wooded peaks behind the promenade, you can find car-free alleys that lead into Stresa’s compact core. This area houses apartments for the town’s approximately 5,000 residents, alongside a plethora of bars, bakeries, cafes, restaurants, and souvenir shops showcasing the produce and crafts of Piedmont, the Italian region where Stresa is located.

A quiet lane leads to Torrefazione e Bar Moka Stresa, an intimate neighborhood spot that serves coffee. Here, you might find yourself among locals, with friendly staff able to assist in English. Around 11 AM, it’s common to see groups of men enjoying glasses of sparkling wine or women with espressos and cigarettes, a glimpse into the local daily rhythm. The air in these streets carries scents of lime, lavender, leather, and camellia from open shop doorways.

Gift stores offer a variety of items, from soaps and lotions to bags and jackets. Alfresco eateries along the streets often feature lake fish like perch and trout on their menus. For lunch, consider Al Buscion, a family-run wine bar and bistro located in the shadow of the Church of Saints Ambrogio and Theodulo. This establishment has been operating for 20 years and offers a relaxed setting.

At Al Buscion, you can order a porcelloso panino, which is served deconstructed. The plate typically includes a generous portion of porchetta, various chutneys, and chunks of warm bread topped with melted fontina cheese, a cow’s milk cheese originating from Orta, a town situated on a lake about 10 kilometers west of Stresa. This dish can be paired with a glass of Bonarda, a red wine from Lombardy, a region adjacent to Piedmont. It provides a simple yet highly satisfying meal experience.

You might find yourself wanting a nap after a pleasant morning. It’s common for tours to regroup before continuing their journey. For those traveling with family, imagining Lily and Ethan enjoying a gelato while Michael photographs the lake would add another layer to the experience of Stresa’s charming old town.

Practical information for planning a visit to Stresa and the surrounding area.

Visitor Information

For those interested in the Borromean Islands, ferries depart regularly from Stresa’s harbour. A typical round trip ticket to visit Isola Bella, Isola Madre, and Isola dei Pescatori can range from €15 to €25. Entrance to the Borromeo Palace and its renowned terraced gardens on Isola Bella usually costs between €15 and €20. Exploring Stresa’s old town can be done independently for free, or you can join guided tours, which typically cost €30 or more.

The cable car running from Stresa up to the Mottarone summit provides panoramic views. However, it is important to verify its operational status, given the significant incident in 2021. If operational, a round trip fare is usually in the €20 to €30 range.

You can find more information on visiting Stresa and the Piedmont region through official tourism websites. Tour operators like Globus offer multi-day itineraries that include stops in Stresa as part of broader European tours. These tours often begin and end in Zurich and cover various Swiss cities and landscapes, with excursions into neighboring countries like Italy.

Should you find yourself in Stresa with family, a stop at a local pasticceria for a treat would surely be a hit with Lily and Ethan, offering a sweet moment amidst the historical and scenic surroundings.