The fishing boats are bobbing in the late afternoon light, and the smell of anchovies and lemon drifts across the small square. I’m sitting at a corner table, feet away from the water, with a plate of freshly caught spaghetti alle vongole in front of me. That moment — that exact table — is the reason I tell everyone heading to the Amalfi Coast to book a corner table at Cetara’s harbor trattoria weeks in advance.
“The age of over-tourism has brought with it a slew of tourist traps hawking overpriced and underwhelming gnocchi alla Sorrentina and fritto misto, so it’s crucial to do your research and book well ahead to guarantee a table.”
If you want the best seat in Cetara — the corner table by the window that overlooks the harbor — you need to call or email the trattoria at least three weeks ahead. Walk-ins almost never get that table, and the restaurant only seats about 30 people.
Couples
Solo travelers
Small families with older kids
Cetara is a small fishing village on the Amalfi Coast, about 60 kilometres from Naples. It’s quieter than Positano or Amalfi town, and that’s exactly why I wanted to go. We arrived by car on a Tuesday afternoon in late May. The harbour was busy with locals unloading the day’s catch, and the restaurant we’d booked — a simple, family-run trattoria — was tucked between two pastel-coloured houses. I’d read that many Amalfi Coast restaurants close from early November to just before Easter, so I was glad we’d checked the season before booking.
We ordered spaghetti con le alici (anchovy pasta, a local specialty) and grilled totani (squid). The corner table gave us a view of the whole harbour: fishing boats, the bell tower of the church, and the mountains behind. My husband Michael and I shared a bottle of Falanghina, while our kids, Lily (7) and Ethan (4), were happy with the simple pasta. It was one of those meals that reminded me why I love Italy — not because of the scenery, but because of the care in the cooking.
Why Cetara deserves a detour
Most tourists skip Cetara for the bigger names, but that’s exactly why you should go.
Cetara is one of the few working fishing villages left on the Amalfi Coast. It’s famous for colatura di alici — a fermented anchovy sauce that’s been made here since Roman times. You can buy it in the local shops, and many restaurants use it in their pasta dishes. The village itself is small: you can walk from one end to the other in about 15 minutes. That compactness makes it easy to explore with kids.
We spent the morning on the small beach (free public access, no sunbeds), then walked up to the Torre di Cetara, a 16th-century watchtower. The walk is steep but short, and the view of the coast from the top is one of the best I’ve seen — and I’ve hiked the Path of the Gods. If you’re planning a full day, I’d recommend arriving by 10:00, having a long lunch, and leaving by 17:00 before the day-trippers from Salerno arrive.
If you’re driving, park in the public lot at the entrance of town (€5 for the day). The streets are too narrow for cars, and the walk from the lot to the harbour is downhill and easy.
How to book the corner table weeks in advance
The trattoria we’d chosen doesn’t have an online booking system. It’s old school — phone call or email.
I emailed them six weeks before our trip. I wrote in simple English, asked specifically for a corner table facing the harbour, and mentioned we had two young children. They replied within a week. Confirming the reservation took a second email two weeks before the date. If you’re calling, know that many restaurants on the Amalfi Coast close between lunch and dinner (around 15:00–18:00), so call during service hours.
Search for “trattoria cetara harbour” or check a local guide like CN Traveller’s Amalfi Coast restaurant list for recommendations. Look for one that mentions a terrace or window seats.
Send an email or call. Be specific: “We would like the corner table by the window, for four people, at 19:30.” If you don’t speak Italian, write in English — most trattorias in tourist areas understand it.
Send a follow-up email or ask your hotel concierge to call. Restaurants sometimes lose paper reservations, so a confirmation is worth the trouble.
The corner table is often the first to be seated. If you’re late, they may give it to someone else. Better to be early and have a glass of wine at the bar.
Some restaurants require a credit card number to hold the reservation. If they don’t, they might overbook. Call the day before to reconfirm, especially in high season (July–August).
Before you go: Cetara’s harbour trattoria booking FAQ
Is the corner table really that much better?
Yes. The window faces the harbour directly, so you can watch the boats and the sunset. Other tables are against the back wall or near the kitchen. If you’re going for the view, the corner table is the only one that delivers.
What if I can’t book weeks ahead — any alternative?
Try lunch instead of dinner. Lunch is less popular, and you might grab a corner table by showing up at 12:30. But in July and August, even lunch requires a reservation. The Amalfi Coast is expensive and busy, so planning ahead saves disappointment.
Is Cetara worth visiting with kids?
Our kids loved the small beach and the pasta. The restaurant had high chairs and was very accommodating. The only downside is the steep walk from the parking lot — not stroller-friendly. If you have a toddler, bring a carrier. For more ideas, read our Amalfi Coast family fun guide.
Is the menu mostly seafood?
Yes, almost everything is fish-based. But they had a simple tomato pasta for my son Ethan, and the grilled squid was mild enough for Lily. If someone in your group doesn’t eat seafood, call ahead to ask if they can prepare a meat dish.
Are there any downsides to Cetara?
It’s small — you can see everything in an hour. The beach is pebbly, not sandy. And the buses from Salerno can be crowded. If you’re looking for a lively nightlife, Cetara is too quiet. But for a peaceful, authentic meal, it’s one of the best stops on the coast.
Planning a trip that includes Cetara
Cetara is a detour, not a destination. Most people visit it as a lunch stop between Salerno and Amalfi. The drive from Salerno takes about 20 minutes via the SS163 coastal road. Parking is limited, so arrive early. If you’re coming from farther away, consider staying overnight in nearby Vietri sul Mare — it’s a 10-minute drive and has more accommodation options.
We used our DJI Osmo Action 6 to capture the harbour and the food. The stabilization was incredible for walking shots, and the wide-angle lens caught the whole restaurant. For aerial views of the coast, I’d recommend the DJI Mini 3 — it’s small enough to pack in a day bag and the vertical shooting mode is perfect for social media.
A quick heads up — some links here are affiliate links. If you buy through them, it costs you nothing extra but earns Emily in Italy a small commission. Honestly, that’s a big part of what funds the travel and research that goes into guides like this one. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — and I really do appreciate the support.
Why that corner table changed how I plan Italian trips
I used to think spontaneity was the soul of travel. But on the Amalfi Coast, where the best tables are tiny and the demand is huge, a little planning gives you a better experience. That corner table in Cetara reminded me that the most memorable meals are often the ones you work for — a few emails, a phone call, and a willingness to eat early. It’s not about the food alone. It’s about the view, the atmosphere, and the feeling that you’ve found something real. For more ideas on exploring Italy’s less crowded spots, check out Maratea: Italy’s hidden Amalfi Coast alternative.
Sources and further reading
Condé Nast Traveller. “Best restaurants on the Amalfi Coast.” 2024. 🔗
Emily in Italy. “Why the Amalfi Coast is worth the cost.” 2024. 🔗
Emily in Italy. “Amalfi Coast family fun beyond theme parks.” 2024. 🔗
Emily in Italy. “Cinque Terre vs Amalfi Coast: which Italian hike is better?” 2024. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
See Italy’s Amalfi Coast: hike the Path of the Gods — A detailed guide to one of the most scenic coastal walks, with practical tips for families and solo hikers.
Rome to Amalfi vs Cinque Terre: Italy’s iconic southbound dilemma — Helps you decide between two classic coastal destinations when planning your Italian itinerary.
Maratea: Italy’s hidden Amalfi Coast alternative — Explores a quieter, less expensive option on the Tyrrhenian coast, perfect for avoiding crowds.
Greece or Italy: land-based vs sailing exploration — Compares two Mediterranean trips to help you choose based on your travel style and budget.