I stood on the pier in Cetara just after 4:30, watching a handful of wooden fishing boats putter back into the tiny harbor. The sun was still high, but the village was already stirring for dinner — tables being set, the smell of garlic drifting from open kitchen doors. The boats were small, maybe 8 meters each, with a lone fisherman at the helm. And they carried the evening’s catch: anchovies, mostly, still glistening.
Cetara’s fishing fleet, one of the most active on the Amalfi Coast, delivers its catch directly to the village’s restaurants and markets — often within hours of being hauled aboard.
Yes, Cetara’s fishing boats really do come in right before dinner service — and that’s why this little village serves some of the freshest seafood I’ve eaten on the entire Amalfi Coast. If you want fish that was swimming this morning, this is the place.
Seafood lovers
Slow travelers
Families who want authentic food
Why Cetara’s fishing boats still come in before dinner
Cetara sits at the base of Mount Falesio, a village that’s been fishing since the 9th century. Its name likely comes from the Latin cetaria — a tuna fishery — and the fleet here still anchors the local economy. The boats are artisanal, 6 to 10 meters long, crewed by one to three people. They use selective gear like gillnets and longlines, which means less bycatch and healthier fish. The village is the most active anchovy processing center on the Amalfi Coast, according to a guide to the fresh fish supply chain on the coast. Marinadalbori.it notes that the short supply chain — fisherman straight to restaurant or market — is possible because of the small ports and artisanal fleet.
That’s why the boats time their return to late afternoon. The restaurants need the fish for the evening menu, and the fishermen want to sell it while it’s at its peak. Standing on the pier, I watched a fisherman lift a crate of anchovies onto the dock. A woman from a nearby trattoria walked over, glanced at the fish, and took the whole crate. No middleman. No cooler. Just dinner.
The anchovy season runs March through August, with peak fishing in spring. During the August biological rest period, some species are less available, but artisanal coastal fishing continues. Trawling stops for a few weeks, but the small boats in Cetara keep working. Source
The short supply chain: from boat to plate in hours
The traditional system means you can eat fish that was caught that morning — and spot the difference immediately.
When you order fish in Cetara, ask the waiter: “Where is this from?” and “Caught today or defrosted?” A good restaurant will answer confidently. The short supply chain here is geography-driven: small ports, artisanal boats, and a culture of direct purchase at the pier. The fish you’ll find includes gilthead bream, European sea bass, John Dory, and, of course, anchovies. Source
I learned to check the eyes — convex, clear, shiny — and the gills, which should be bright red. The flesh should be firm, and the smell should be neutral, like the sea, not ammonia. Restaurants that buy directly from the pier often have menus that change daily based on what the boats bring in. That’s a good sign.
Visit Cetara on a weekday afternoon in late spring. The boats tend to return between 4:30 and 5:30. Grab a seat at a restaurant facing the harbor and order the cuoppo — mixed fried fish in a paper cone — or spaghetti with anchovy sauce. The sauce is never heated, so it stays bright and aromatic.
Colatura di Alici: the liquid essence of Cetara
If you’ve heard of Cetara before, it’s probably because of the Colatura di Alici — a clear, amber anchovy sauce that’s a direct descendant of Roman garum. The process is a ritual: anchovies are beheaded and gutted by hand, then layered head-to-tail in small oak barrels (called terzigni) with sea salt. They’re left to mature for at least nine months — the PDO requirement — and the liquid that drips out is the Colatura. Amalficoast-travel.com explains that the technique was revived by medieval monks and is now protected by strict regulations.
You’ll find it served raw over spaghetti: no salt in the pasta water, just olive oil, garlic, chili, parsley, and a generous drizzle of Colatura. Never heat it, or you lose the bouquet. One drop flavors a whole dish. The village even has a museum dedicated to it inside the Torre Vicereale, the lookout tower on the main beach. AmalfiSails.com notes that the tower was part of a coastal defense system of 400 towers and now houses the Colatura exhibition.
Imitations exist. Always check for the PDO mark on the bottle. Authentic Colatura di Alici must come from Cetara and be aged at least nine months. The best reserves age for several years, developing a deeper, more complex flavor. Source
Michael and I bought a small bottle from a shop on the main street. The owner showed us barrels stacked in the back. I’ve been using it on pasta and roasted vegetables — it’s incredibly savory, so a little goes a long way.
When to visit Cetara — and what to see
Fall and spring are the best times for an authentic atmosphere, with fewer crowds and sunny days. September is especially good. AmalfiSails.com recommends these months.
Two events are worth planning around: the procession of St. Peter on June 29, where a statue is carried on a boat-shaped platform, and the Night of the Lampare in late July to early August, when traditional anchovy fishing with lamps takes place, accompanied by music and food stalls. Source The lampara fishing method uses lights to attract anchovies, a practice that has been used for centuries.
Beyond the food, the village has a few landmarks. The Church of St. Peter the Apostle dates to the 9th century, with a Baroque interior and a medieval bell tower. Inside, you’ll find a bilingual Latin–Arabic inscription commemorating a local hero who freed Prince Frederick of Aragon in 1484. AmalfiCoast.com also mentions the Church and Convent of San Francesco, built in the 14th century, with frescoes and a painting by Marco Benincasa.
Boat or bus: how to reach Cetara
Cetara is easy to reach by SITA bus from Salerno or Amalfi — the ride from Salerno takes about 30 minutes. By sea, private boat excursions can dock here, and you can also join a guided tour. AmalfiSails.com describes the approach by sea, with views of pastel houses and the beach.
If you’re driving, know that parking is very limited. The village is small enough to explore on foot in an hour, but if you want to linger over lunch, give yourself at least two hours — and that’s without the Colatura museum.
Take the bus from Salerno around 2:00 PM. That gives you time to walk the main street, buy a bottle of Colatura, and then settle at a harbor-side restaurant for the arrival of the boats around 4:30. The bus back to Salerno runs until about 8 PM.
Before you go to Cetara
Is Cetara worth a detour from the main Amalfi Coast towns?
Absolutely — if you love seafood and want to escape the crowds of Positano and Amalfi. It’s a working fishing village, not a tourist attraction. You’ll see real life, not souvenir shops.
The downside? There’s not much to do besides eat, walk, and take photos. If you’re looking for shopping, nightlife, or big beaches, this isn’t the place. But for a quiet afternoon with the best anchovies of your life, it’s perfect.
What’s the best way to eat local fish in Cetara?
Order the cuoppo (fried fish in a paper cone) or spaghetti with Colatura di Alici. Ask the waiter if the fish was caught today and from which port. A confident answer means it’s fresh.
Check the menu — if it doesn’t change daily, they’re probably not buying from the boats that day. Source
Can I bring my family to Cetara?
Yes, but it’s a small village with steep streets. Lily and Ethan managed fine, but Ethan’s stroller was tricky on the hill near the church. The beach is pebbly, not sandy, and there’s no playground. The food is simple — the kids loved the fried anchovies.
Plan for a short visit, maybe two hours. It’s not a full-day destination for young children, but the novelty of watching boats unload fish kept my kids entertained for a good 30 minutes.
Is the fish really that much better than in other Amalfi Coast towns?
In my experience, yes. The short supply chain is real here. In Positano, most fish comes from wholesalers. In Cetara, the restaurant owner might have bought it directly from the fisherman 20 minutes ago. The difference is noticeable in the texture and taste.
One caveat: August is a tricky month. Some species are in biological rest, and while artisanal fishing continues, the variety may be smaller. Source
What’s the biggest disappointment about Cetara?
Parking. There’s a small lot at the entrance, but it fills by 10 AM. If you drive, you’ll likely have to park on the road above and walk down. Also, the village shuts down early — restaurants close by 10 PM, and there’s no nightlife.
If you’re expecting the polished charm of Positano, you’ll be let down. Cetara is gritty, workaday, and unapologetically fishy. That’s exactly why I loved it.
Why Cetara stayed with me
I’ve been to dozens of Italian fishing villages, but Cetara is the one I keep thinking about. It’s not the views — though the pastel houses climbing the hillside are pretty. It’s the honesty of the place. The boats don’t dock for a show. They dock because dinner is coming, and the fish needs to be on plates. That rhythm, unchanged for centuries, is something you rarely see anymore. If you go, skip the selfie stick and just watch the pier. That’s the real show.
For more ideas on experiencing the Amalfi Coast without the crowds, read how to see Italy’s Amalfi Coast for less than $1,050 — a practical guide to budget-friendly travel along this coastline.
Sources and further reading
Amalfi Sails. “Cetara: The Authentic Charm of the Fishermen’s Village.” 🔗
Marina Dalbori. “Fresh Fish Supply Chain in the Amalfi Coast: A Guide to Choosing Well.” 🔗
Amalfi Coast Travel. “Cetara Anchovies.” 🔗
Amalfi Coast.com. “Cetara, a Fishing Village Steeped in Maritime Tradition.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Italy’s Amalfi Coast: Cliffside Villages and Turquoise Waters — a broader guide to the coastline’s towns, including Cetara, with tips on where to stay and how to get around.
Amalfi Coast: How to Find La Dolce Vita — practical advice for slow travel along the coast, focusing on food, relaxation, and local experiences.
See Italy’s Amalfi Coast: Hike the Path of the Gods — a detailed guide to the famous trail, with a section on post-hike seafood in coastal villages.