I stood on the pebble beach at Marina del Cantone, squinting at the water. It was a shade of blue so deep and vivid that I thought my eyes were playing tricks. I pulled out my phone, lined up the shot, and watched the screen turn the color into something flat and ordinary. The water in Nerano simply does not photograph correctly. That’s not a complaint — it’s a challenge. Nerano is a tiny fishing village in the municipality of Massa Lubrense, about 70 km from Naples, tucked between the Amalfi Coast and the Sorrento Peninsula.
Nerano is a small fishing village perched on a rocky cliff with views of the sea and the archipelago Li Galli.
If you’re coming to Italy expecting to capture that iconic blue water on your phone — you’ll be disappointed. The color is real, but cameras just can’t reproduce it. You have to see it with your own eyes to believe it.
Photographers
Hikers
Families
That first afternoon I walked down to Marina del Cantone, a Blue Flag beach with smooth pebbles instead of sand. The water was so clear I could see the bottom at chest depth. I tried every setting on my camera — HDR, portrait mode, even a drone I’d brought along. Each time the result looked like a faded postcard. The problem? The water’s color comes from its depth and clarity, and the camera’s sensor just can’t handle that range of blue. You’ll have better luck with a dedicated camera that lets you shoot RAW, but even then, it’s humbling.
The beaches that give Nerano its color
Nerano sits right on the edge of the Punta Campanella marine protected area, established in 1997, which keeps the water crystal clear.
There are three main beaches around Nerano, and each one offers a different kind of blue. I started at Marina del Cantone, which you can reach by car or public bus. It’s a pebble beach, not sand, and the water drops off quickly — great for swimming but not for toddlers. We brought our own water shoes for the kids. The beach is lined with a few bars and restaurants, and the water stays calm because it’s sheltered by the cliffs.
Further out, Baia di Ieranto is only accessible by a 6‑km footpath from Nerano. It’s part of the Punta Campanella protected area and managed by FAI (the Italian environment fund). The hike takes about an hour and a half each way, and it’s not stroller-friendly. We left Lily and Ethan with Michael at the beach while I went alone. The view from the trail — olive groves, Mediterranean scrub, myrtle and juniper — is almost as good as the bay itself. At the end, you step onto a small pebble beach with no crowds and water that looks like a swimming pool. It’s the kind of place where you feel the quiet.
Hiking and the marine protected area
Punta della Campanella is the rocky headland that separates the Amalfi Coast from the Sorrento Coast, and it’s the real reason the water is so clear.
The area has been a marine reserve since 1997, which means no motorboats in the inner zone and strict limits on fishing. That protection keeps the water pristine. You can hike the coastal trail from Nerano to the Punta della Campanella lighthouse. The path winds through Mediterranean scrub, past ancient Roman ruins (Emperor Nero supposedly had a villa here as a holiday retreat), and ends with a view of the Li Galli islands. The whole loop takes about three hours, and you’ll want sturdy shoes and plenty of water.
If you’re hiking to Baia di Ieranto, start early before the heat sets in — the trail has no shade, and the sun is brutal by 11 a.m. Bring at least a liter of water per person.
For a different perspective, consider taking a drone. The DJI Mini 3 Fly More Combo is small enough to pack in a daypack, and its 4K HDR camera handles the blue water better than a phone. I flew it over Marina del Cantone and the footage came close to what I saw — not perfect, but closer. The vertical shooting mode is great for Instagram, and the three batteries give you about 114 minutes total flight time, enough for a morning of exploring.
A quick heads up — some links here are affiliate links. If you buy through them, it costs you nothing extra but earns Emily in Italy a small commission. Honestly, that’s a big part of what funds the travel and research that goes into guides like this one. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — and I really do appreciate the support.
Getting to Nerano and getting around
Nerano isn’t the easiest place to reach, and that’s part of the appeal.
By car, you drive south from Sorrento on the SS145, then take the winding road down to the coast. Parking is tight — there’s a paid lot near Marina del Cantone, but it fills up by 10 a.m. in summer. By public transport, take the SITA bus from Sorrento to Termini, then a local bus to Nerano. The journey takes about an hour. Once you’re in the village, everything is within walking distance, but the hills are steep. We brought our folding stroller from Italy and regretted it — the cobblestone paths are narrow and uneven. A sturdy baby carrier is a better choice.
Nerano has no train station. The closest major hub is Sorrento, which connects to Naples via the Circumvesuviana train. Plan your day so you’re not rushing back to make a connection.
If you’re staying in Sorrento or Positano, a boat tour is the easiest way to see the Nerano coastline. Several operators run half-day trips from Sorrento that stop at the Li Galli islands, Baia di Ieranto, and Marina del Cantone. The boats are larger, so they don’t enter the protected zone, but you get a great view of the cliffs from the water.
Before you go to Nerano
Is the water really that blue, or is it just photos?
It really is that blue. I’ve seen it with my own eyes on a cloudy day and it was still intense. The marine protection keeps the water sediment-free, so the color comes from light reflecting off the white pebbles and the depth.
Can I swim at Baia di Ieranto?
Yes, but there are no lifeguards and no facilities. The beach is pebbly, and the water gets deep quickly. Bring water shoes and a towel. It’s not suitable for very young children.
What’s the biggest downside to visiting Nerano?
Overtourism is not an issue here — it’s quieter than Positano or Amalfi town. But the isolation means limited services. There are only a few restaurants, and they close by 3 p.m. for lunch service. If you miss the window, you’ll be eating snacks from the minimarket.
How many days should I spend in Nerano?
One full day is enough to see the main beach and do one hike. If you want to relax and swim at different coves, stay two nights. Accommodation is limited to small hotels and B&Bs, so book early.
Is Nerano kid-friendly?
It’s fine for older kids who can swim and hike. The pebble beaches are not ideal for toddlers, and the steep paths make strollers a pain. We brought our kids (ages 7 and 4) and they enjoyed the boat tour more than the beach.
Why Nerano deserves a spot on your Amalfi itinerary
Most people skip Nerano and head straight to the famous towns. That’s a mistake. The water here is the real thing — not filtered, not edited, just genuinely, impossibly blue. And the fact that it won’t photograph correctly forces you to put the camera down and just look. That’s a rare gift in Italy. If you’re planning a trip along the coast, I’d suggest adding Nerano as a quiet day between the busier stops. You can read more about hiking the Path of the Gods nearby in our guide to that trail — it’s a perfect pairing for a day of outdoor exploration.
Sources and further reading
Visititaly.eu. “Nerano: a crystalline sea between the Amalfi Coast and the Sorrento Coast.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Discover Family Fun on the Italian Amalfi Coast — Practical tips for traveling with kids, including which beaches are safe and which towns have stroller-friendly paths.
Experience the Amalfi Coast’s Romantic Road — A scenic drive along the SS163, with stops at viewpoints that overlook the same blue water you’ll find in Nerano.
Italy’s Best Time: Discover the Quiet Season — Why visiting in spring or fall gives you the best chance of having beaches like Nerano almost to yourself.