Caseificio Borderi doesn’t just make sandwiches. Andrea Borderi puts on a show — stacking prosciutto, grilled vegetables, and thick slices of homemade mozzarella onto crackly bread while a patient queue watches from the narrow aisles of the Ortigia Market. The line can feel daunting, especially in summer when it stretches for well over an hour. But most people who wait will tell you it was worth it.
I’ve heard the same from travelers who visited Syracuse specifically for this market stall. The question is whether you want to stand in that line, or whether a quieter alternative suits your morning better. Either way, the Ortigia Market delivers one of the best food experiences in Sicily.
The Sandwich That Draws the Crowd
At Caseificio Borderi, the panino is a performance as much as a meal.
Andrea works behind a counter piled with cheeses, cured meats, and grilled produce. When it’s your turn, saying “fai tu” — “you do it” — hands him creative control. He builds a custom panino with warm ricotta, sun-dried tomatoes, prosciutto, and whatever else strikes him, all on bread that crackles when you bite in. Prices run around €8 to €10, which feels reasonable for the portion and the theater.
The catch is timing. If you arrive at 11 AM in July, you’re looking at a wait that can exceed an hour. Locals buying their weekly cheese get frustrated when the queue blocks the aisles, and you’ll see why. The best strategy is to come before 10:30 AM or after 2:30 PM, when the worst of the rush has passed. The market itself winds down by early afternoon, so the later window is tight — but doable.
Bring small bills. Many stalls prefer cash, and a €50 note at a sandwich counter won’t win you any friends.
A Calmer Seat at Fratelli Burgio
If the Borderi queue feels like too much, walk to the other end of the market. Fratelli Burgio offers a completely different experience: sit-down service, a curated tagliere misto (mixed charcuterie board), and wine by the glass. Alfio Burgio runs the stall, and his board runs around €15 to €30, depending on what you choose.
The real draw here is the caponata — sweet and sour, made the Sicilian way — paired with artisanal preserves and a glass of Grillo or Nero d’Avola. It’s a quieter way to taste the same local ingredients without jostling for position in the aisles. Fratelli Burgio operates Monday through Saturday, roughly 8 AM to 4 PM, and the seated setup makes it a good option if you’re traveling with someone who doesn’t do well with crowds.
My family tends to split the difference. One person queues for Borderi while the rest grab a table at Fratelli Burgio and order wine. Everyone wins.
Getting the Timing Right
The Ortigia Market runs Monday through Saturday, roughly 7 AM to 2 PM, with the most action happening before 9 AM. That early window is when fishermen are filleting swordfish, vendors are shouting their abbanniata — melodic street cries that trace back to Arab market traditions — and the stone floors are still dry enough to walk safely.
By 10 AM, the fish section gets slippery from melting ice and water. Closed-toe shoes with grip make a real difference. And if you’re planning to buy fresh seafood, arrive before 9 AM to see the best catch. Swordfish is at its peak between May and August, and the gambero rosso di Marzamemi — vivid red shrimp from thirty kilometers south of Syracuse — is the prize. Expect to pay around €15 to €20 for a portion in season.
Touch nothing with your bare hands. Point to what you want, or ask for a disposable glove. It’s the fastest cultural rule to learn, and the quickest way to get scolded if you forget.
Granita and Brioche: The Morning Ritual
Before the sandwich, before the seafood, there’s granita. This is how Sicilians start their day: a semi-frozen almond or pistachio paste, churned to a crystalline texture, served in a wide bowl with a warm brioche col tuppo — a bun with a round topknot that you tear off and use as a scoop.
Real almond granita is pure white. Real pistachio granita is a muted brownish-green. Bright colors mean artificial ingredients, and the locals know it. A proper granita breakfast costs around €3 to €4, and the best versions in Syracuse aren’t on Ortigia itself — they’re at Bar Leonardi near the Neapolis Archaeological Park, where locals queue for almond granita and espresso.
If you want to stay on the island, Caffè Apollo on Largo XXV Luglio serves a solid version. Summer specials like mulberry or fig granita disappear fast, so grab one if you see it.
Arancino, Stigghiola, and Fried Fish
The market offers more than sandwiches. Arancino — cone-shaped in Syracuse, filled with ragù and saffron rice — is a portable, filling snack. In eastern Sicily, it’s masculine (arancino, not arancina), and the cone shape is said to echo Mount Etna. Avoid any that have been sitting under a heat lamp; fresh is the whole point.
Stigghiola is the most adventurous option: lamb intestines skewered and grilled over charcoal. It’s pungent, intensely flavorful, and a direct inheritance from Sicily’s Arab culinary past. The stigghiola stall is one of the most photographed spots in the market, and the queue of locals at 8 AM tells you everything.
For something easier to love, grab a paper cone of fritto misto from La Lisca — calamari, prawns, sardines, zucchini slices, all battered and fried on the spot. Around €8 to €12, eaten immediately while standing, with lemon squeezed progressively down the cone so the bottom pieces don’t get soggy.
Before You Visit the Ortigia Market
What time should I arrive?
Between 7 AM and 9 AM for the freshest produce, the abbanniata at full volume, and the best photo light. By 1 PM, most stalls are packing up.
Is it open on Sundays?
No. The market is completely closed on Sunday. Plan around it.
Can I pay with a card?
Many stalls prefer cash in small denominations. Bring plenty of €5 and €10 notes.
What’s the sit-down alternative to Borderi?
Fratelli Burgio at Piazza Cesare Battisti 4. Sit for a charcuterie board with caponata and wine, open Monday to Saturday 8 AM to 4 PM.
Is the market worth visiting if I don’t eat seafood?
Absolutely. The produce, cheese, dried oregano on the branch, Pachino tomatoes, and street food like arancino and granita make it rewarding even if fish isn’t your thing.
Bringing a Piece of the Market Home
The best souvenirs from the Ortigia Market aren’t the generic spice packets in clear plastic bags. Buy dried oregano still on the branch — the essential oils last longer. Pick up shelled Mandorle di Avola almonds or Pistacchio Verde di Bronte if you find them. A jar of caponata or a bottle of local olive oil fits in checked luggage and extends the memory for weeks after you’re home.
And if you’re planning a broader Sicily trip, the market fits naturally into a longer itinerary. For more on what the island offers beyond the food, check out this guide to Sicily beyond the usual beaches and bites, or this overview of Sicily’s ancient ruins, islands, and food.
The Ortigia Market is chaotic, loud, and occasionally frustrating. That’s exactly why it works. It’s a working market first and a tourist attraction second, and the food tastes better for it. Stand in the line at Borderi, or skip it and sit down at Burgio — either way, you’re eating something that matters to the people who make it.
Sources and further reading
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Your 3-Day Palermo Itinerary for Exploring Sicily — A practical plan for Sicily’s capital, including markets, street food, and cultural sites.
Italy’s Hidden Gems: 20 Beautiful Small Towns — Covers Noto, Ragusa Ibla, and other Val di Noto Baroque towns easily reached from Syracuse.
Rome and Sicily: Coastal Charm and Ancient History — Combines Sicily’s southeastern coast with Rome for a longer Italian itinerary.