The Amalfi Coast of Italy is a place that lives up to its legendary reputation. Driving along the Strada Statale 163, a road carved into the cliffs, offers views that quite literally take your breath away. It’s an experience that’s both exhilarating and humbling, a testament to human engineering against a backdrop of immense natural beauty.
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi
Our journey began in Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi, a charming village perched high above the Bay of Naples and Salerno. The name itself, meaning “Saint Agatha between two bays,” perfectly captures its strategic, scenic location. It served as a fantastic base for us, allowing us to explore the coast while also providing opportunities for invigorating walks. The air here felt so fresh, a welcome change from Boston.
We found a wonderful spot called Agriturismo Le Tore, an organic olive farm just outside the village. The nine rooms were simple yet beautifully decorated with hand-painted stencils on whitewashed walls, and they even had family-friendly apartments. Waking up to breakfast under a pergola heavy with roses and jasmine, with fresh fruit from the garden and homemade cakes, was pure bliss. Michael commented that it was exactly the kind of authentic experience we’d hoped for when planning this 2026 trip.
From Le Tore, the road twists and turns, each bend revealing a new, stunning vista of the shimmering sea below. It truly felt like we were descending into a postcard.
Where to eat near Sant’Agata
While Michelin-starred restaurants are plentiful, we opted for family-run trattoria Lo Stuzzichino. It’s a cozy spot where you can savor regional classics. We indulged in melanzane alla parmigiana, a dish of baked aubergines with tomatoes and cheese, and paccheri pasta tubes topped with sweet piennolo tomatoes from the slopes of Vesuvius. The flavors were so rich and comforting, just what you need after a day of exploring.
Don’t miss this view
A must-visit is the belvedere of the Benedictine monastery known as Il Deserto. The 360-degree panorama from here is breathtaking. It’s easy to see why artists and writers like Stendhal and Goethe were inspired by this spot. Be sure to call ahead to confirm their opening times, as they can be a bit unpredictable, but the voluntary donations appreciated are well worth it for the views.
Positano’s Dramatic Beauty
Positano is undeniably picturesque, a cascade of pastel-hued buildings clinging to a sheer cliff face. It’s the image that often comes to mind when thinking of the Amalfi Coast. Even with the summer crowds, its steep, narrow lanes are a delight to wander.
We stayed at Villa Rosa, which offered stylish rooms with spacious terraces draped in bougainvillea. The views from our balcony were simply spectacular, rivaling those of much pricier hotels nearby. Waking up to fresh pastries and cappuccinos served on our terrace each morning was a simple luxury that made our stay feel special. Lily even drew a picture of the view in her travel journal.
The drive down to Positano, especially as the sun begins to set, is an experience in itself. The colors of the buildings seem to glow against the darkening sea.
Where to eat in Positano
For a truly unforgettable meal, we took a short boat ride to Adolfo’s, a shabby-chic beach shack on Laurito beach. Dining with our toes in the sand, we enjoyed punchy, sunny local dishes. The mozzarella grilled on lemon leaves and the garlicky spaghetti alle vongole were highlights. It felt incredibly authentic and relaxed.
Souvenirs from Positano
You absolutely must check out the made-in-Positano leather sandals. We found a fantastic little shop called Safari, just above the beach. They offer a range of handmade sandals, from simple thongs to more elaborate styles. They are a perfect, wearable souvenir of your time on the coast.
A Day Trip to Capri
Although not strictly on the Amalfi Coast, Capri is an essential day trip. We took a hydrofoil from Positano, and as the last packed boat departed, the island seemed to exhale. It became a bit more serene, allowing us to appreciate its dramatic beauty.
We bypassed the glitz of Capri town and took a small orange bus to the more low-key Anacapri. From there, a pleasant stroll brought us to Da Gelsomina, a charming smallholding offering a taste of rural island life. It boasts simple, pastel-hued rooms with terraces and sea views, plus a lovely pool. It’s known for its excellent restaurant, and the views from its veranda were just stunning.
Capri’s incredible views
The summit of Monte Solaro, at 589 meters, offers dizzying views that stretch all the way to Vesuvius on a clear day. We opted for the chairlift, a bracing 12-minute ride from Via Caposcuro, which was an adventure in itself. Ethan, who can be a bit nervous at heights, was surprisingly calm, captivated by the unfolding scenery.
Where to eat on Capri
Gelsomina’s veranda is the perfect spot for a meal. We enjoyed typical Caprese cuisine, including a delicious local take on ravioli stuffed with caciotta cheese and fresh marjoram. The wines made from the falanghina grape were also exceptional. It was a truly memorable lunch.
Praiano’s Tranquil Charm
Praiano offers a refreshing contrast to Positano’s lively atmosphere. This sprawling village served as another excellent base, and it’s also a gateway to the challenging but breathtaking Sentiero degli Dei, the Path of the Gods. The views from this mountain trail are legendary.
We found a simple, friendly hotel called Le Sirene, perched on a hillside. Our room had air conditioning and a balcony with five-star views stretching west along the coast towards Capri. The rooftop terrace was the ideal spot for a light breakfast or a relaxing sunset Campari, watching the lights twinkle across the water.
Seafood by the sea in Praiano
A short walk along the coast road led us to Marina di Praia, where Trattoria da Armandino sets tables right on the quayside. Armandino himself serves the freshest fish and seafood, dependent on the day’s catch. The grilled swordfish steak, drizzled with a local mint-spiked dressing, was particularly memorable. It’s the perfect place to enjoy a simple, delicious meal with the sound of the waves as your soundtrack.
Exploring from the water
To truly grasp the contorted topography of the Amalfi Coast, you really need to see it from sea level. Hiring a boat from Marina di Praia was one of our best decisions. A gentle chug towards Amalfi revealed hidden coves, sea caves, ancient Saracen watchtowers, and tiny, secluded beaches. It gave us a completely different perspective on the dramatic landscape, and the kids loved spotting the different inlets.
Furore’s Rugged Landscape
Furore, nestled above the deep Vallone del Furore gorge, is a rugged little town known for its colorful murals and excellent DOC wines. The road leading up from the coast is a zigzagging marvel, passing through landscapes of bare limestone and precariously terraced vineyards, with views that become increasingly extraordinary with every turn.
We stayed at Agriturismo Sant’Alfonso, set on the mountainside, about 400 meters above sea level. It felt like a real step back in time, offering a feel for life beyond the immediate coast. The nine cozy rooms were in a former monastery building, surrounded by terraced grounds. The home-cooked food was wonderful, and the gardens with a small Jacuzzi were a delightful surprise. It was a great base for exploring the surrounding walking trails.
Gourmet experiences in Furore
For a more upscale dining experience, Hostaria di Bacco, just beyond Furore, offers unusual fish and seafood dishes with panoramic terrace views. We tried the ferrazzuoli, local flat pasta ribbons, with smoked swordfish, tomatoes, rocket, pine nuts, and sultanas. Their wine list is also impressive, featuring some of the region’s best offerings.
Wines of Furore
Marisa Cuomo has put the region’s DOC Costa d’Amalfi wines on the map with her Gran Furor Costa Divina winery. A tour and tasting, by appointment, is highly recommended. Their white Fiorduva wine, a blend of native grapes, is outstanding and a true reflection of the terroir.
Ravello’s Elevated Serenity
Ravello sits aloof from the coastal bustle, perched on a mountain buttress overlooking the Bay of Salerno. With its shady gardens, quiet lanes, and a sense of faded grandeur, it’s easy to understand why this town has attracted artists and writers for centuries. The slower pace of life here is incredibly seductive.
We chose to stay at Torre dello Ziro, a super-stylish B&B located on the hillside halfway between the coast and the town. It features six smart, modern bedrooms with sea views and a fantastic garden terrace for breakfast and relaxing. Alex’s mother bakes the most delicious cakes and muffins each morning, which we enjoyed with fresh orange juice and homemade jams. It felt like a home away from home.
Culinary tradition in Ravello
In the ancient town center, the rustic, family-run Cumpà Cosimo is a local institution. We tried the misto di primi, a generous platter of five homemade pasta dishes. It’s incredibly filling and easily enough for two people, especially with the addition of a side salad. It’s a true taste of hearty, traditional Ravello cuisine.
Iconic gardens of Ravello
Villa Cimbrone is an absolute must-see. The romantic garden, with its famous Terrace of Infinity, is considered one of the most beautiful in Italy. You can feel the history here, imagining figures like Greta Garbo and Leopold Stokowski finding solace in its beauty. The views are simply unparalleled.
Amalfi’s Maritime Legacy
Once a glorious maritime republic, Amalfi is now the coast’s busiest town. Despite the tourism, it remains a pretty place, framed by lemon terraces and boasting a magnificent Arab-Norman cathedral. It’s a town that wears its history with pride.
We stayed at Residenza del Duca, a charming guesthouse just off the main street. Our room was decorated in soft pastel colors with fine fabrics, featuring 16th-century beamed ceilings and antique touches. The showers had massage jets, and free Wi-Fi was a welcome bonus. Breakfast was served on a flower-filled terrace, a lovely way to start the day.
Seafood delights in Atrani
A short trip around the headland took us to the tiny village of Atrani and the brilliant restaurant A’ Paranza. They serve an abundant array of tempting fish antipasti and pasta dishes. The local scialatielli ai frutti di mare, with mixed seafood and tomatoes, was a standout. It’s a simple setting that lets the incredible seafood shine.
The Emerald Grotto
While Capri’s Blue Grotto is famous, the Grotta dello Smeraldo near Amalfi is a worthwhile and much cheaper alternative. The greeny-blue light filtering into this underwater cave is incredibly beautiful. You can take a boat trip from Amalfi or descend via a lift from the road above. It’s a unique natural wonder.
Minori and Maiori’s Coastal Charm
The coastal towns east of Amalfi are less fashionable, which is part of their charm. Minori is an attractive old town with a sandy beach and the remains of a Roman villa. It’s also home to Pasticceria de Riso, arguably the best pastry shop on the entire coast.
For a more affordable stay, we found Casa Raffaele Conforti in nearby Maiori. It’s a slightly faded but charming nine-room gem occupying the top floors of a 19th-century townhouse. The rooms are filled with antiques and knick-knacks, featuring frescoed ceilings, original tiled floors, and wallpaper. It has a certain retro charm that we found delightful.
Sweet treats in Minori
Salvatore de Riso at Pasticceria de Riso is a pastry genius. His ice cream, granita, and pastries are simply divine. The creamy delizie di limone, ricotta-filled sfogliatelle, and ricotta and pear tart were incredible. Eating these treats felt like a real indulgence.
Roman history in Minori
History buffs will appreciate Minori’s Villa Romana, a first-century AD patrician mansion. The remains around the courtyard garden, including fresco fragments and well-preserved thermal baths, offer a fascinating glimpse into Roman life. Admission is free, making it an accessible historical site.
Cetara’s Authentic Fishing Village
Cetara is an authentic, unprettified village that offers a genuine taste of the Amalfi Coast before mass tourism. It boasts the only remaining working fishing fleet on the coast and several excellent restaurants where you can sample the local specialty, colatura di alici – a fermented anchovy essence.
We opted for a stay at Hotel Cetus, built into the cliffside just outside the village. Its 37 sea-facing rooms are fresh and modern, with jazzy tiled floors and balconies or terraces offering stunning views. The hotel also has a good restaurant, a small spa, and a private beach.
Anchovy essence and more
Acqua Pazza is a contemporary restaurant where tables spill onto the street in summer, offering perfect harbor views. Their paccheri pasta with monkfish, capers, and cherry tomatoes, or the spaghetti with the house-made colatura di alici, are not to be missed. It’s a sophisticated take on local ingredients.
Ancient frescoed chapel
Tucked away just above the SS163, west of Erchie, is the tiny 10th-century chapel of Santa Maria de Olearia. This atmospheric place, hewn out of sheer rock, features early frescoes decorating its vaulted ceiling and apse. It’s easy to miss, but worth seeking out for its historical significance.
Vietri sul Mare’s Ceramic Heart
Vietri sul Mare, at the eastern end of the coast, is synonymous with the production of the colorful ceramics found everywhere along the Amalfi Coast. While it has limited affordable accommodation, it’s a vibrant town with a strong artistic heritage.
We found a bright new B&B called Verdi in nearby Salerno, which is only 4km away and offers plenty of choice. Housed on the second floor of an apartment building, it has three comfortable bedrooms in bold colors and a communal table for an excellent breakfast spread. It was a practical and comfortable base for our final days.
The taste of Vietri pizza
For some of the best pizzas, head to Due Fratelli, a little way from the town center. Their pizzas, baked in a wood-fired oven, are superb and come in two generous sizes. The panuozzo, a kind of long, filled pizza sandwich, is a must-try. Bagging a table on the top-floor terrace offers lovely views.
Ceramic artistry
The Solimene ceramics factory, designed by Paolo Soleri, a pupil of Frank Lloyd Wright, is an extraordinary building. The outlet shop inside is a treasure trove of colorful, naive animal designs that are instantly recognizable and make for fantastic souvenirs. It’s a testament to Vietri’s enduring ceramic tradition.
Exploring the Amalfi Coast felt like stepping into a dream. Each town offered its own unique charm and beauty, from the dramatic cliffs of Positano to the serene gardens of Ravello. It’s a journey that stays with you, leaving you with a longing to return.