I’m standing on a terrace in Ravello, looking down at the Mediterranean through a tangle of lemon branches, and I finally understand why people write poems about this place. The Amalfi Coast holds UNESCO World Heritage status, and its terraced agricultural system was recognised by the FAO’s GIAHS programme in 2025 for the way farming communities shaped steep slopes into cultivable land using dry-stone walls and rainwater harvesting. This article is for anyone trying to figure out whether the Amalfi Coast lives up to the hype, how to navigate its famous cliff roads, and where to base a family trip without losing your mind.
Over 970 plant species have been recorded in the coastal territory, including rare and limited-range Mediterranean species.
– fao.org
The Amalfi Coast is stunning, crowded, expensive, and absolutely worth it — but only if you pick the right town and accept that you won’t see everything in one trip.
First-time visitors
Scenic drivers
Food and lemon lovers
Positano: the staircase town that earns every photo
Positano is the postcard image of the Amalfi Coast, but it comes with a physical price tag.
Whitewashed houses stack down a ravine to a pebble beach, and the only way to get anywhere is stairs. Hundreds of them. I counted roughly 300 steps from our rental down to the water, and every single one felt justified when I looked back up. The town is famous for its vertical layout, and that means strollers are a genuine challenge. Lily managed fine, but I carried Ethan more than I expected.
Beach clubs line the shore offering sunbeds, sea access, and long lunches with no schedule. A day bed typically costs around €25–€40 depending on the season. The water is clear and cold, even in July. We spent an afternoon at one of the clubs near the Spiaggia Grande, and it was the most relaxed the kids had been all week.
Dinner at La Sponda, which reopens at the end of March each year, features a vaulted dining room with over 400 suspended candles and a terrace overlooking the town. Their spaghetti with lobster from the Galli islands and hot lemon soufflé made with fresh Amalfi lemons are the kind of dishes you remember months later. Reservations are essential, and the dress code is smart.
Ravello: the hill town that steals the show
Ravello sits high above the coast, and it offers something the seaside towns cannot: silence.
Described as the region’s dreamiest hill town, Ravello is a maze of medieval streets leading to two elaborate villas. Villa Rufolo has a terrace that offers a wonderful sunset lookout along the coast, and it inspired scenes from Richard Wagner’s opera Parsifal. Villa Cimbrone’s Terrace of Infinity is exactly what it sounds like — a balustrade that seems to drop straight into the sea.
The Caruso Belmond Hotel, an 11th-century former palace perched on a cliff, has a pool with a serious claim to being one of the most picturesque in the world. We didn’t stay there — our budget doesn’t stretch that far — but we did book lunch on their terrace. The view alone was worth the splurge.
For a mid-range option, Casa Giovanni da Procida in Positano and Ercole di Amalfi just outside Amalfi town are solid alternatives. Both are family-friendly and within walking distance of the main sights.
Visit Villa Rufolo around 5pm. The crowds thin out, the light turns golden, and the sunset terrace is almost empty. Bring a jacket — it gets windy up there.
Amalfi town and the lemon groves that feed the coast
Amalfi town is the historic heart of the coast, and its cathedral square is the best place to start understanding the region’s agricultural soul.
The Cathedral of St. Andrew dominates the piazza, and the café-filled square below is where locals and tourists mix over espresso and granita. The real story, though, is in the terraces above the town. The PGI Sfusato Amalfitano lemon is the economic backbone of the region, transformed into limoncello, sweets, cosmetics, and artisanal preserves. We visited a small cooperative that runs lemon tours, and Lily was fascinated by the wooden pergolas that support the trees several metres above the ground.
The FAO’s GIAHS recognition in 2025 highlights how dry-stone walling, rainwater harvesting, and manual cultivation sustain a biodiverse, low-impact system. Over 970 plant species have been recorded in the coastal territory, including rare Mediterranean species. That statistic made me look at the hillsides differently — every terrace is a deliberate, centuries-old intervention.
Driving the Amalfi Coast: what nobody tells you about the SS163
The coastal road between Sorrento and Salerno is one of the most famous drives in Europe, and it is also one of the most stressful.
The SS163 is narrow, winding, and lined with tour buses that seem to occupy both lanes. Local drivers are aggressive but skilled. We rented a small Fiat, and I’m glad we did — anything larger would have been a nightmare. The Sita bus connects towns along the Sorrentine peninsula as an alternative, and it runs frequently during peak season. We used it for one leg between Amalfi and Positano, and it was far more relaxing than driving.
Parking is expensive and scarce. Public lots in Positano cost around €6–€8 per hour, and many require booking in advance during summer. Our hotel in Praiano had a reserved spot, which saved us hours of circling.
The Amalfi Coast’s license plate rule changes travel plans significantly. During peak season, alternating traffic restrictions apply based on odd and even license plates. Check the current rules before you drive, or you risk a fine.
Capri: the boat ride that feels like a different world
Capri is a short ferry ride from Sorrento or Positano, and it offers a completely different pace from the mainland.
The Faraglioni rock formations rise from the sea just off the island’s coast, and the Blue Grotto is lit from beneath by refracted sunlight. We took a chairlift to Monte Solaro, the highest point on the island, and the view across the Bay of Naples was worth the queue. The island is expensive — lunch for four cost us around €120 at a modest trattoria — but the combination of dramatic coastline and upscale shopping makes it a worthwhile half-day trip.
Families should know that strollers are difficult on Capri’s steep streets. We left ours at the hotel and used a baby carrier for Ethan. Lily handled the walking fine, but she was tired by the end of the day.
Salerno: the quieter gateway you should consider
Most visitors skip Salerno and head straight for Positano or Amalfi. That might be a mistake.
Salerno sits at the eastern end of the coast and offers lower prices, fewer crowds, and a laid-back atmosphere. The historic centre is walkable, the waterfront promenade is lovely, and the train station connects directly to Naples and Rome. We spent two nights here at the end of our trip, and it was the most relaxed part of the entire holiday. The ferry from Salerno to Amalfi takes about 30 minutes and costs around €8, making it an easy base for day trips.
For families, Salerno is a smarter choice than Positano. Flat streets, affordable restaurants, and a large public beach with gentle entry made it far easier with Ethan. I wrote a full guide to Salerno as a quieter Amalfi Coast escape if you want the details.
Pompeii: the day trip that changes how you see the region
Pompeii is a must-visit for history buffs, and it is close enough to the Amalfi Coast to work as a half-day trip.
The mesmerising ruins cover about 170 acres, and you need at least three hours to see the highlights. We hired a private guide for €130, and it was the best money we spent. She brought the city to life — the bakery, the amphitheatre, the plaster casts of victims. Lily asked more questions than I expected, and even Ethan was interested in the dog mosaic.
Getting there from the coast is straightforward. The Circumvesuviana train runs from Sorrento to Pompeii in about 30 minutes. Alternatively, you can drive, but parking near the site is limited and costs around €5–€10.
Pompeii gets extremely hot by late morning, especially in summer. Go as early as possible — gates open at 9am — and bring water. The site has limited shade.
What to pack for the Amalfi Coast with kids
Packing for a family trip to the Amalfi Coast requires more thought than a typical beach holiday.
The terrain is steep, the sun is intense, and the dress code for nicer restaurants is smart-casual. I brought a leather backpack that fit my camera, a water bottle, snacks, and a change of clothes for Ethan without looking bulky. Michael used a pair of noise-cancelling headphones on the flight and during ferry rides, which made a noticeable difference in his patience levels.
For capturing the coast, I relied on a compact drone with three batteries that gave me about 114 minutes of total flight time. The vertical shooting mode was perfect for the cliffside villages. Just be aware that drone use is restricted in certain areas, including near the Blue Grotto and within national park boundaries.
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Before you go: Amalfi Coast practicalities
Is the Amalfi Coast overrated?
Parts of it are. Positano in August is a human traffic jam, and the prices are inflated across the board. But the landscape is genuinely extraordinary, and the lemon groves and hill towns like Ravello deliver on every promise. The key is timing — visit in May, June, or September.
The coast is also expensive compared to other Italian destinations. A simple pasta dish in Positano can cost €18–€22, while the same dish in Salerno costs €10–€12. Plan your budget accordingly.
How many days do you need on the Amalfi Coast?
Four to five days is enough to see the main towns without rushing. Base yourself in one town and take day trips. We stayed in Praiano for three nights and Salerno for two, and that felt right.
Any less than three days and you will spend most of your time in transit. The roads are slow, and ferry schedules are limited outside peak season.
Can you visit the Amalfi Coast without a car?
Yes, and many people prefer it. The Sita bus network covers all major towns, ferries connect the coastal villages, and trains run from Naples to Sorrento and Salerno. Driving adds stress and expense.
We used the bus for one leg and ferries for two others. The ferry from Amalfi to Positano takes about 20 minutes and costs €8. It is faster and more scenic than the road.
What is the biggest disappointment about the Amalfi Coast?
The crowds. In July and August, the main squares and beaches are packed to the point of discomfort. The famous photo spots require patience and timing. I found myself frustrated more than once.
The other disappointment is the beach quality. Most beaches are pebble or rock, not sand. Water shoes are essential, and the beach clubs charge for sunbeds. If you want sandy beaches, head to the Adriatic coast instead.
Is the Amalfi Coast suitable for young children?
It depends on the town. Positano and Amalfi are difficult with strollers due to stairs and narrow streets. Salerno and Praiano are flatter and more manageable. We found Salerno the easiest by far.
Restaurants are generally welcoming to children, and most have high chairs. The food is kid-friendly — pizza, pasta, gelato — so picky eaters will be fine. Just plan for slower days and accept that you won’t see everything.
Why the Amalfi Coast stays with you
I keep coming back to the lemon groves. Not the famous views or the expensive restaurants, but the terraces where farmers have grown the same fruit for centuries using techniques passed down through generations. The coast is beautiful in a way that photographs cannot capture, but it is also fragile, crowded, and deeply human. That tension is what makes it worth the hassle. For a deeper look at one of the quieter corners of the region, read my guide to Salerno as a laid-back gateway to Italy’s Amalfi Coast.
Sources and further reading
FAO. “Italy – Amalfi Coast System.” 2025. 🔗
Irenie Forshaw. “A dreamy long weekend on the Amalfi Coast.” The Week, 17 February 2026. 🔗
MENAFN. “Cliffs, Lemons And The Sea: A.M.A Selections Releases Its 2026 Amalfi Coast Capri Villa Portfolio.” 2026. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Amalfi Coast’s License Plate Rule Changes Travel — Explains the alternating traffic restrictions that affect driving plans during peak season.
Umbria’s Hidden Charms: A Family Traveler’s Guide — A quieter alternative to the Amalfi Coast for families looking for hill towns without the crowds.
Kitchenette Cooking for an August 3-Week Europe Tour — Practical packing and meal planning advice for families traveling through Italy in summer.
Four-Week Italian Journey: Coastal Drive to Sicily and Beyond — A longer itinerary that connects the Amalfi Coast with southern Italy and Sicily.