I stood on the small stone jetty at Cetara, watching fishing boats bob in the turquoise water, and the only sound was the clink of rigging and the distant chatter of a barista calling out a cappuccino order. No selfie sticks. No tour groups. Just a working fishing village that has been making the same fermented anchovy sauce since the 13th century. Cetara is the only producer of colatura di alici, a direct descendant of Roman garum, and most people who drive the Amalfi Coast blow right past it.
Cetara is the only producer of colatura di alici, a fermented anchovy sauce made here since the 13th century.
If you’re traveling the Amalfi Coast and want to escape the crowds, a stop at Cetara is worth the detour — even if you have to go off the main ferry route.
Foodies
Slow travelers
Couples
This article is for anyone who wants to see a side of the Amalfi Coast that feels lived in, not curated. I’ll explain why Cetara gets skipped, what makes it worth your time, and how to actually get there — including the ferry workaround.
Why Cetara Gets Skipped by Almost Every Itinerary
The geography of the Amalfi Coast works against Cetara.
Most visitors base themselves in Sorrento, Positano, or Amalfi, then take the ferry east to Salerno or west to Capri. The ferry network — run by Travelmar, Alicost, and NLG — connects the main towns but does not include a stop at Cetara. The village sits at the eastern end of the SS163 coastal road, about 10 km east of Amalfi, and the ferry routes from Sorrento to Amalfi terminate before they reach it. Travelmar runs services from Amalfi to Salerno, but those ferries pass Cetara without docking.
Drivers also skip it. The road from Amalfi to Salerno is narrow and winding, and most people are racing to the autostrada or to Ravello. Cetara has no large parking lot visible from the road, so it’s easy to miss. And because it’s the easternmost of the classic Amalfi Coast towns, many itineraries simply run out of time.
Cetara is not on the main ferry routes. To reach it by ferry, take a boat from Amalfi to Salerno (€10–12, 40 minutes) and then a local bus or taxi back west for the final 10 km. Alternatively, drive — parking is relatively easy by Amalfi Coast standards.
What Makes Cetara Special: Colatura di Alici and a Real Fishing Village
The food here tells a story that goes back nearly two thousand years.
Colatura di alici is the direct heir of Roman garum. Anchovies are layered with sea salt in wooden barrels, pressed with a stone weight, and left to ferment for up to three years. The resulting amber liquid is intensely savory. I sat down at a waterfront trattoria and ordered spaghetti with freshly pressed colatura. The taste was nothing like the bottled versions you find in supermarkets — briny, umami, and clean. Every restaurant in Cetara uses it, and the locals are proud of that heritage.
If you visit in October, you can catch the Sagra del Tonno, one of the region’s most authentic food festivals. Tuna is grilled, preserved, and celebrated alongside the colatura. It’s not a tourist event — it’s a village tradition.
How to Visit Cetara When the Ferry Doesn’t Stop
You have three options, and one of them involves a ferry — just not directly.
If you’re coming from Amalfi, take the Travelmar ferry to Salerno (€10–12, 40 minutes, departures 2–4 times a day in high season). Get off in Salerno, then take a local SITA bus or taxi back to Cetara — it’s only 10 km west. The bus costs about €2.50 and runs every 30–60 minutes. Total time: about 1.5 hours, and you get two ferry rides with views of the coast.
For drivers, parking is relatively easy by local standards. The village has a small lot near the harbour, and in peak season you’ll pay around €5–8 per hour — similar to Positano but with less competition for a spot. Fill up your petrol tank before you start the SS163; stations are scarce between Sorrento and Salerno.
If you’re using public buses, the SITA bus from Amalfi to Salerno passes through Cetara. The bus costs €2.50 per ride with a day pass available for around €7.60. Buses can be crowded in July–August, but outside those months you’ll often find a seat. The journey from Amalfi to Cetara takes about 20 minutes.
Ferry services are weather-dependent. In rough seas, the harbour master may cancel afternoon departures. Always have a backup plan — a bus or taxi — especially if you’re relying on the Salerno ferry to return.
Cetara vs. the Big Names: A Quick Comparison
Here’s how Cetara stacks up against the more famous Amalfi Coast towns in terms of crowds, cost, and authenticity.
| Factor | Positano | Amalfi | Cetara |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ferry access | Multiple routes, frequent | Main hub, many routes | No direct stop; bus or taxi needed |
| Parking cost (peak) | €5–7/hr | €5–8/hr | €5–8/hr, easier to find |
| Authenticity | Tourist-oriented, crowded | Historic centre, busy | Working fishing village, quiet |
| Best for | Views, shopping, nightlife | Cathedral, history, ease | Food, tranquillity, local culture |
- Cetara is the most authentic fishing village on the Amalfi Coast, especially for food lovers.
- Ferries don’t stop there, but you can reach it by bus from Amalfi or by taking the Salerno ferry and backtracking.
- Plan for at least 2 hours to eat a proper meal and walk the harbour.
Cetara Travel Questions You Might Have
Is Cetara worth a detour if I only have one day on the Amalfi Coast?
Probably not. If you have only one day, stick to Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. Cetara is best for a half-day trip if you have 2–3 days on the coast and want a break from crowds.
Can I visit Cetara by ferry from Sorrento?
No direct ferry. You’d take a ferry from Sorrento to Amalfi (€15–18, 60–75 minutes), then a bus or taxi to Cetara for the last 10 km. It’s doable but adds time.
What’s the downside of Cetara?
It’s quiet. Really quiet. There’s no nightlife, very few shops, and only a handful of restaurants. If you’re looking for a party or a shopping spree, you’ll be disappointed. Also, the beach is small and pebbly.
Is October a good time to visit Cetara?
Yes. The Sagra del Tonno happens in October, the weather is still mild, and crowds are thin. Ferries and buses run less frequently, but the village is at its most authentic.
How much time should I spend in Cetara?
About 2 hours, including a meal. That’s enough to walk the harbour, visit the small church, and eat a plate of spaghetti with colatura. If you’re a serious foodie, you might want 3 hours to linger.
Why Cetara Deserves a Spot on Your Amalfi Coast Itinerary
The Amalfi Coast is famous for its dramatic cliffs and pastel villages, but authenticity is getting harder to find. Cetara offers something that Positano and Amalfi can’t: a place where the main industry is still fishing, where the sauce on your pasta has been made the same way for 800 years, and where the loudest sound at noon is a seagull. That’s worth a detour — even if you have to take an extra bus to get there. For more ideas on building a slower Amalfi Coast trip, read my guide to traveling the Amalfi Coast in the shoulder season.
Sources and further reading
Tour Travel & More. “Amalfi Coast by Car – Where to Stop.” No date. 🔗
Cerratolimo. “Amalfi Coast Ferry Routes & Prices Guide.” No date. 🔗
Euro City Guide. “Amalfi Coast Travel Guide – Complete Itinerary.” 2026. 🔗
Senior Traveling Guide. “Amalfi Coast, Italy – Getting Around & Where to Stay.” No date. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Ravello Offers Amalfi Coast Beauty Without the High Cost — A detailed look at Ravello, another quieter alternative to the coastal towns, with practical tips on accommodation and gardens.
A Week on Italy’s Amalfi Coast Offers Plenty — A full-week itinerary that covers the major towns and includes advice on mixing popular spots with hidden corners like Cetara.
Cinque Terre vs. Amalfi Coast: Your Italian Choice — A comparison of two famous coastal regions, helping you decide which fits your travel style and how to make the most of either.
Best Amalfi Coast Towns: Positano’s Dolce Vita — A roundup of the top towns along the coast, with honest pros and cons for each, including Cetara mentioned as a foodie gem.