The Six-Table Trattoria in Nerano Locals Refuse to Recommend Loudly

I took the last table on the terrace at Lo Scoglio da Tommaso on a Tuesday afternoon in late September. The sea was flat and bright below the railing, and the kitchen smelled like zucchini browning in olive oil. That smell — nutty, buttery, unapologetically simple — is the smell of Nerano.

This article is for anyone who wants to eat the real Amalfi Coast — not the version with €18 lemon granitas and souvenir sandals. I came to Nerano to find the dish everyone talks about, and to understand whether the town itself lives up to the pasta. The short answer is yes, but not in the way you might expect.

Lo Scoglio da Tommaso: The Restaurant That Defined a Dish

Walk in, sit down, and let the kitchen show you what zucchini can do.

Lo Scoglio has been run by the same family for decades. The current generation still works the room, checks on tables, and talks through the menu like they’re hosting a dinner party. The vibe is warm, not fussy. You can come in sandy feet from the beach below, and nobody blinks.

We ordered the Spaghetti alla Nerano as a primo, alongside a plate of grilled anchovies and a simple tomato salad. The pasta arrived in a shallow bowl, coated in a creamy sauce that was barely a sauce at all — just melted cheese, olive oil, and finely sliced zucchini that had been fried until golden and then tossed with the hot pasta. It was one of the best things I’ve eaten in Italy.

That dish is the reason most people come to Nerano. But the restaurant itself is the reason they come back. The CNTraveller guide to the Amalfi Coast’s best restaurants flags Lo Scoglio as the place most associated with the dish, and for good reason. The kitchen doesn’t overcomplicate things. It trusts the ingredients.

The Dish That Put Nerano on the Map

Spaghetti alla Nerano is not complicated. That’s the point.

Spaghetti alla Nerano starts with zucchini, sliced thin and fried until golden. The fried zucchini is then tossed with hot spaghetti, a generous amount of melted provolone del Monaco or a similar semi-hard cheese, and a splash of pasta water. The result is creamy, rich, and deeply savory, without any cream or butter. It’s a dish that relies entirely on technique and quality of ingredients.

The dish originated in Nerano, and Lo Scoglio is widely credited with perfecting it. The recipe has been copied across the Amalfi Coast and beyond, but the version here still feels original. The zucchini is fried in small batches, the cheese is grated to order, and the pasta is cooked just short of al dente so it finishes in the pan.

I watched the kitchen from my seat on the terrace. The cook worked alone, moving between the stove and the prep counter with the kind of economy that comes from years of repetition. He didn’t rush. The pasta came out when it was ready, and that was fine with everyone.

Wine, Views, and the Quiet Side of Nerano

Nerano is more than one restaurant. The town itself rewards a slow afternoon.

After lunch, I walked along the waterfront and found a small path leading up the hillside. The road curves past lemon groves and terraced gardens, with views of the sea opening up at every turn. Nerano is quieter than Positano or Amalfi town, and that’s exactly why I liked it.

Villarena Winery sits on the hillside above the harbor, with a terrace that looks out over the bay. They offer wine tastings that include local wines — crisp whites, bold reds, and a house-made limoncello. The setting is low-key and unpretentious. You can sit with a glass of Falanghina and watch the boats come in and out of the harbor.

Nerano also has a small beach — Marina del Cantone — that’s popular with locals. It’s a pebble beach, not sand, so bring a mat or a chair. The water is clear and calm, good for swimming. In the summer, it gets busy, but in the shoulder season, you can find a spot without much effort.

Getting to the Table: Booking and Transportation

Nerano is not hard to reach, but you need a plan.

Planning Your Nerano Visit

Do I need to book Lo Scoglio in advance?

Yes. Tables are limited, especially on the terrace. In summer, book at least three weeks out. In the shoulder season, two weeks is usually enough. Walk-ins are possible at the bar, but you won’t get the full experience.

Call or email the restaurant directly. They’re responsive and will confirm within a day or two.

Is Nerano worth visiting if I can’t get a table at Lo Scoglio?

Yes, but it’s not the same. The town is small, and the restaurant is the main draw. If you can’t get a reservation, consider visiting for the beach and the winery instead. Another option is to come for a drink at the bar and order a simple plate of pasta at the counter.

That said, the Spaghetti alla Nerano is the reason to come. Without it, Nerano is a pleasant seaside town, but not a destination.

What’s the biggest downside of visiting Nerano?

Overtourism is a real issue in the summer months. The narrow roads get clogged with cars, the ferry dock fills up, and the beach is packed. If you come in July or August, expect crowds and noise. The best time to visit is May, June, or September, when the weather is still warm but the crowds thin out.

Another downside is the cost. Lo Scoglio is not cheap — expect to pay around €40-50 per person for a full meal with wine. The winery tasting is also on the higher side for the region. This is not a budget destination.

Can I bring kids to Lo Scoglio?

Yes, but it’s a small, formal-ish space. The restaurant is family-friendly, and the staff are warm with children. The menu has simple options like plain pasta or grilled fish that kids will eat. The terrace is safe, but there’s a railing and steps, so keep an eye on little ones.

We brought Lily and Ethan, and they did fine. The kitchen made them a smaller portion of Spaghetti alla Nerano without the cheese, and they loved it. The beach nearby is a good reward for good behavior at the table.

What should I pack for a day in Nerano?

Comfortable walking shoes are essential — the town is on a hillside, and the paths are steep. A swimsuit and towel for the beach, a hat for the sun, and a light jacket for the ferry ride back. I brought a compact drone with a 4K HDR camera to capture the coastline from above, and it was worth every gram of pack weight.

A leather backpack that fits a 14-inch laptop is also useful for carrying a camera, water, and a change of clothes. The streets are narrow, so a backpack is easier than a tote bag.

A quick heads up — some links here are affiliate links. If you buy through them, it costs you nothing extra but earns Emily in Italy a small commission. Honestly, that’s a big part of what funds the travel and research that goes into guides like this one. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — and I really do appreciate the support.

When a Meal Feels Like a Discovery

I sat on that terrace for two hours, watching the light change over the sea. The pasta was perfect, but what stayed with me was the feeling that I’d stumbled into something real — a restaurant that wasn’t trying to be anything other than what it was. Nerano doesn’t need to impress you. It just needs you to sit down and eat. That’s the whole point. For more on the quieter side of the Amalfi Coast, read my guide to Salerno, a laid-back gateway to the region.

Sources and further reading

Maple Leopard. “Best Places to Eat in Nerano, Italy.” 2025. 🔗

CNTraveller. “Best Restaurants on the Amalfi Coast.” 2025. 🔗

SorrentoVibes. “Best Restaurants on the Amalfi Coast — Complete Food Guide.” 2025. 🔗

Related reading on Emily in Italy

Amalfi Coast: Terraced Lemons, Cobalt Sea, and Cliff Roads — A visual and practical guide to driving the Amalfi Coast road, with tips on where to stop and what to see.

Italy’s Amalfi Coast: Family Fun Beyond Theme Parks — Ideas for traveling the Amalfi Coast with kids, including beaches, boat trips, and easy hikes.

Positano: Explore the Iconic Amalfi Coast Village — A deep dive into Positano, with advice on where to eat and how to avoid the crowds.