The summer heat often draws crowds, but I’ve found that visiting Puglia, Italy, in September offers a delightful shift. The intense August rush subsides, leaving the region with a more relaxed atmosphere, perfectly warm seas, and pleasant temperatures for exploring. It’s a time when the landscape seems to exhale, and the natural beauty of places like Vieste and Mattinata truly comes into its own. This part of Italy’s Gargano Peninsula, the spur of the boot, is a revelation for those seeking stunning coastlines, ancient legends, and a more authentic Italian experience away from the peak season frenzy.
Exploring the Gargano Peninsula
Vieste’s Coastal Charm
My journey began in Vieste, a town perched dramatically on a promontory. The iconic Pizzomunno rock, a towering sea stack, stands guard over the expansive Castello beach. Legend has it that Pizzomunno was a fisherman whose grief turned him to stone after his lover, Cristalda, was drowned by jealous mermaids. It’s a tale that adds a layer of mystique to the already captivating scenery. Even though the summer crowds had mostly departed, the beach still held a lively energy. The water was wonderfully warm, a perfect invitation for a swim or a leisurely paddle. Exploring the nearby sea caves, with their archways and formations, felt like stepping into natural cathedrals. Families were still enjoying the last of the warm weather, and the scent of salt and pine filled the air.
Vieste itself is a delight to wander through. Its old town, a labyrinth of narrow streets and archways, leads to the newly restored Romanesque cathedral. In August, this town is a popular destination, with a significant portion of its annual visitors arriving within a short period. I noticed the transition from the peak season to a quieter September. The Settimana dell’Olio, an olive oil festival held in late August, signals this shift, and by my visit, a palpable sense of peace had returned.
Mattinata’s Tranquil Shores
Venturing south from Vieste, I found the small town of Mattinata to be even more tranquil, even during what is still considered high season by some. Our accommodation was located just outside the town, offering a peaceful retreat within walking distance of local dining spots. The days were still warm, with temperatures hovering around a comfortable 28 degrees Celsius, and the sea remained deliciously inviting. A short drive took me to Mattinatella beach, a beautiful stretch of sand where I rented a transparent canoe. My aim was to reach Baia delle Zagare, or Citrus Blossom Bay, a few miles up the coast, renowned for its striking sea stacks, including one aptly nicknamed “the scissors.”
The journey by canoe was unhurried, punctuated by stops to explore hidden coves and sea caves. We discovered a small, inaccessible beach, perfect for a quiet picnic. Baia delle Zagare lived up to its reputation, with its dramatic rock formations sculpted by the elements. The southern side of the Gargano Peninsula, sheltered from northerly winds, proved to be ideal for autumn exploration. Another day, I ventured out from Baia di San Felice to admire a natural sea arch, and later, I enjoyed a scenic trip on rented electric bikes along the clifftop Sentiero dell’Amore, taking in breathtaking views of the white beaches below.
Autumn’s Unexpected Liveliness
What struck me about early autumn in the Gargano was that, paradoxically, it felt like a livelier time in some respects. With the main summer rush over, locals seemed to embrace a more social and celebratory mood. Vieste hosted Vieste in Love, an event expanding on the Pizzomunno and Cristalda legend with performances and concerts. Mattinata celebrated its patron saint with parades, music, and fireworks, and the anticipation of the October olive harvest festival was evident. Even the UNESCO-listed town of Monte Sant’Angelo was buzzing as it prepared for its Archangel Michael festival on September 29th, complete with a torchlit reenactment.
For nature lovers, a few miles inland lies the Foresta Umbra, offering beautiful scenery for autumn leaf-peeping. This made me reflect on the fact that so many visitors seem to cram into August, missing out on the unique charm of the shoulder seasons. I also learned that spring here is magical, with a high concentration of wild orchids and more festivals, such as a rosé wine celebration in Vieste. It’s a region that truly rewards a more considered visit.
Discovering Alentejo’s Coastal Beauty
Odeceixe: A Coastal Haven
Heading southwest from Puglia, my travels took me to Alentejo, Portugal, a region I’d heard was exceptional for embracing the late summer sun. It lives up to its reputation as a place where time seems to slow down. The famous singer Amália Rodrigues once said that Portuguese fado music “came from the sea,” and it’s easy to see why when standing on the dramatic clifftops overlooking the Atlantic here. This coastline has a raw, undeveloped beauty, a blend of peaceful rural life and a rugged natural landscape. Unlike other parts of Portugal, there are no major cities directly on this coast, and the roads tend to steer clear of the immediate shoreline, preserving its unspoiled character.
Odeceixe, a village straddling the border between the Alentejo and Algarve regions, proved to be an ideal base. Its large, golden beach is unique, with the clear, shallow waters of the River Seixe on one side, perfect for paddleboarding and kayaking, and the Atlantic Ocean on the other, offering consistent waves for surfing. I spent hours just soaking in the atmosphere. There are several operators who offer water sports equipment rentals, including canoes and kayaks, as well as beach essentials like umbrellas and loungers. The vibrant blue umbrellas of Bar da Praia, a beloved spot perched above the beach, are a sure sign you’ve found a place renowned for its classic Portuguese dishes, such as clams in garlic and white wine.
Village Life and Coastal Trails
The village of Odeceixe itself, a couple of miles inland from the beach, has its own charm. Traditional white houses with colourful borders line its streets, and the village square becomes the social hub after sunset. I loved seeing the working Iberian windmill, painted in classic Alentejo blue, offering picturesque views of the river snaking its way to the sea. With the intense summer heat gone, the temperatures were perfect for exploring the Rota Vicentina, a network of hiking trails that wind through both coastal and inland landscapes. The Fisherman’s Trail, once used by locals to access hidden beaches, is now a well-marked route, offering everything from day hikes to multi-day treks. It’s not uncommon to find yourself with a pristine stretch of beach entirely to yourself.
For those looking for a different pace, horseback riding tours along the clifftops offer a unique perspective of the landscape. Tucked away in the countryside, I discovered places that celebrate a simpler way of life, like Casa Ateliê, offering pottery workshops and delicious Lebanese food. The region also boasts some exceptional winemaking. Filippo Pozzi, with experience from renowned wine regions, has been working to restore neglected vineyards, producing singular, “unconventional” wines. Staying at Atlas Land quinta offers a tranquil setting amidst olive groves and vineyards, with opportunities for wine tasting. Inland Aljezur, with its historic castle ruins, provides a glimpse into the area’s past.
Corsica’s Dramatic Cliffs and Coves
Bonifacio’s Cliffside Citadel
My exploration continued to the stunning island of Corsica, specifically to Bonifacio in the south. This town is truly one of Europe’s most dramatic sights, clinging precariously to the edge of 70-meter-high white limestone cliffs that plunge into the Mediterranean. The citadel, a jumble of terracotta-roofed homes and shops, has stood proudly for centuries, a testament to its builders’ ingenuity. Arriving on a warm afternoon, the narrow, shaded streets of the old town offered a welcome respite from the sun.
After settling into my hotel, I wandered deeper into the maze-like alleyways. Restaurant terraces spilled onto the street, filled with lively diners. Climbing the steps on the citadel walls offered breathtaking panoramic views: the inner harbour below, a jagged coastline stretching into the distance, and a hazy backdrop of mountains. I stumbled upon a delightful bar, L’Assaghju, serving local aperitifs, including a homemade chestnut liqueur that was wonderfully sweet and moreish. The owner shared stories about other liqueurs she created from the island’s abundant produce, like clementines, and poured me a glass of local muscat pétillant, a delicate sparkling white wine that perfectly complemented the moment.
Coastal Exploration and Local Flavors
The next morning, I drove west to Plage de la Tonnara, a beautiful crescent of blond sand set against a backdrop of rocky, arid landscape. The crystalline water in the shallow bay was warm enough for swimming even in October, making for a perfect, relaxed morning of paddling and enjoying the scenery. Lunch was planned further along the coast, inland towards the perched town of Sartène. The landscape shifted dramatically, with steep mountains dominating the horizon. I stopped at La Bergerie d’Acciola, a laid-back bar-restaurant serving delicious barbecued dishes under a rustic roof, with a terrace offering stunning mountain views. A platter of local cheese and charcuterie, featuring melt-in-your-mouth prisuttu ham and flavourful goat and sheep cheeses, was a highlight. It was a moment to savor the island’s distinct flavors and appreciate its multifaceted beauty.
Essaouira’s Coastal Breezes
A Medina of Sensory Delights
My journey then led me to Essaouira, Morocco, a coastal city that captivated me from the moment I arrived. It has a unique charm, a blend of history, culture, and a refreshing sea breeze that provides a welcome contrast to the inland heat. The city is divided into two distinct parts: the ancient medina, enclosed by high walls, and the more modern new town that has sprung up around it. The medina is smaller and much more manageable than its Marrakech counterpart, yet it still retains that intoxicating African-Arab atmosphere. Two main thoroughfares lead from the central square by the port: Avenue Sidi Ben Mohamed Abdellah, known as “tourist street,” and the parallel Avenue de L’Istiqlal, the vibrant “market street.”
I found myself drawn to stroll along market street in the late afternoon, around 5 p.m., when the locals, known as Souiris, come out to shop for dinner. The stalls brimmed with fresh produce, plump dates, and spicy olives from surrounding farms. I discovered charming riads within the medina for accommodation, offering a traditional Moroccan experience. The city’s history as a trading port is evident everywhere, with opportunities to find treasures like distinctive Saharan throws and blankets dyed in deep blues or patterned in sand and black. The rhythmic sounds of gnaoua music often drift from shops, and numerous small galleries showcase the work of local artists, with many opening their studios to visitors on Sundays at the flea market in the new town.
Seaside Activities and Sunset Spectacles
Essaouira is also a lively fishing hub. At lunchtime, stalls near the port offer freshly caught seafood, including some of the best sardines, which can then be taken to local vendors to be cooked over charcoal. Enjoying this fresh catch with homemade bread and sweet tea while watching the seagulls and cats vie for scraps is a quintessential Essaouira experience. The long, sandy beach is a major draw, offering a wide array of activities. Kite surfing, surfing, kayaking, quad biking, camel rides, and horse riding are all popular. The beach is also great for families, as the waves and tides are generally not too strong.
A personal favorite activity was walking along the beach to the town of Sidi Kaouki, a journey that can take most of the day or be shortened by a taxi. Along the way, you might see horses galloping or spot locals fishing for octopus. Sidi Kaouki is also gaining recognition for wellness retreats. For the perfect end to any day, Essaouira offers spectacular sunsets. Sipping a chilled glass of wine at one of the beachfront restaurants while watching the camel drivers lead their animals home is an unforgettable prelude to dinner. The city’s restaurants offer a range of Moroccan specialties like tagine and couscous, alongside grilled fish and some unexpected delights like beef Wellington at Umia.
Andalucía’s Mountain Villages
Comares: A White Village Adventure
My travels led me to Comares, one of Andalucía’s pueblos blancos, or white villages, located in the Axarquía region of Spain. Perched high in the mountains, about an hour’s drive northeast of Málaga, Comares offers breathtaking views and a wealth of outdoor activities. The village itself is a labyrinth of narrow streets, and from vantage points like the terrace of the Hotel Rural Olivia Verde, a converted olive mill, you can survey the surrounding landscape. The 360-degree panorama encompasses the valleys, caves, limestone outcrops, and ancient trails that crisscross this historically rich area.
The hotel itself boasts an excellent restaurant, and the terrace offers a dramatic drop to the road below, with glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea in the distance. For those drawn to the mountains, Comares is an ideal starting point. Well-signposted paths lead from the village, taking you past climbers scaling rock faces and offering access to the region’s natural beauty. The village also features its own zip wire for a dose of adrenaline. The route known as La Teja leads to the remains of an Arab settlement at Masmullar, offering a journey through history.
Exploring the Axarquía Countryside
While many tourists stick to the crowded Costa del Sol, venturing into the Axarquía reveals a different side of Andalucía a region that welcomes visitors without the overwhelming crowds. The clean air and expansive, rugged country are a significant draw for those seeking natural beauty and adventure. For cyclists, exploring the campo, or countryside, and visiting villages like Cutar and Benarmagosa offers a rewarding experience. If you have a robust bike, you can even follow dry riverbeds, though caution is advised if rain is expected, as flash floods can occur.
The majestic peak of La Maroma, the region’s highest mountain, is accessible for hikers, though a guide is recommended due to its altitude. The charming village of Canillas de Aceituno serves as a good base for such expeditions. Cómpeta, located on La Maroma’s southern flank, is a lively village with a good selection of restaurants, including the long-established El Pilón. What I found particularly appealing about the Axarquía is that once the intense summer heat subsides, these villages come alive. The ghost-town atmosphere of the hotter months dissipates, replaced by a genuine local bustle. Many villages host ferias, or fairs, and events like Comares’ Night of the Candles in early September and Cutar’s Moorish-themed Fiesta del Monfi in October offer unique cultural experiences. The pleasant weather even extends into late autumn, with late November days still comfortable enough for shorts.
Konitsa’s Mountain Majesty
The Historic Konitsa Bridge
My final destination in this exploration was Konitsa, Greece, nestled in the Pindus Mountains of northwestern Greece. The region is defined by its dramatic landscapes of mountains, water, and stone. The star attraction is the astonishing stone bridge of Konitsa, built in 1870. This single-arched bridge curves gracefully over the translucent green waters of the Aoos River, and it’s said to be one of the highest of its kind in the Balkans. Standing on its wide cobbles, with a small bell still hanging to warn of strong winds, and gazing upstream into the Aoos gorge as the sun rose over the towering, autumn-tinted mountains, was an unforgettable experience.
The summer heat of Greece had mellowed into a warm September glow, a perfect prelude to the autumnal colors that soon begin to paint the canyon’s trees. Konitsa itself is spread out like an amphitheater on the slopes of Mount Trapezitsa. A winding road leads from the river to its leafy squares and the evocative upper town, dotted with Ottoman-era mansions and Orthodox churches. My accommodation offered panoramic views of the Albanian mountains and the Aoos River meandering towards the border, providing a constant reminder of the region’s dramatic geography.
Exploring the Voidomatis River and Vikos Gorge
As part of the UNESCO Vikos-Aoos Geopark, Konitsa is an ideal base for exploring the surrounding natural wonders. A short drive led me to the Voidomatis River, renowned for its incredibly clear, albeit freezing, waters. Following a marked path along the riverbank, I discovered rock shelters used by ancient hunters and watched fish glide through the shadows. The luminous blue of the water when viewed from underwater is truly mesmerizing. After a riverside lunch of grilled trout, I ventured into the Zagori region, known for its stunning stone villages like Papingo and Mikro Papigko, set against the dramatic limestone mass of Mount Tyymfi.
My destination was the village of Vikos, on the edge of the Vikos Gorge, one of the deepest and most extraordinary geological formations in the world. The cooler temperatures of late September and October made the hike down to the gorge’s turquoise springs much more manageable than in the summer heat. The reward after the descent was a refreshing drink at the Viewpoint Garden cafe, perched on a natural balcony overlooking the chasm. Kingfishers darted upriver, and dippers dove into the water, all set against the immense geological drama of the canyon. It’s a place where the ancient contours of the earth and water feel incredibly close.
During my visits, I also explored atmospheric monasteries, ancient villages, and witnessed river rafters navigating the Voidomatis. But each time, the remarkable bridge over the Aoos remains a constant in my memories. Stopping for coffee and traditional walnut cake at the hotel by the bridge, and walking towards the Panagia Stomiou monastery, offered a final immersion in the raw beauty of this landscape. The pale boulders breaking the green-blue torrents and the still pools reflecting the craggy cliffs created a scene of immense power and tranquility. It’s a destination that stays with you long after you leave.
If you find yourself planning a trip to Italy or any of these incredible destinations, remember that traveling in the shoulder seasons can offer a richer, more authentic experience. The beauty of these places is amplified when you can appreciate them at a more leisurely pace, surrounded by the local rhythm of life. I hope this inspires you to explore these captivating corners of Europe.