I first spotted Camogli from the train window, and I actually pulled my husband Michael’s arm. “Look at that.” A sweep of tall, pastel-colored houses stacked right against the sea, no crowds spilling onto the sidewalk. It felt like discovering a secret the guidebooks forgot to mention. Cinque Terre sees roughly 2.5 million visitors annually, and while I love those five villages, that number means you share every viewpoint with a hundred other people. This guide is for travelers who want the same Ligurian coastline — the pastel houses, the seafood, the hiking — but with room to breathe. I’ll cover six quieter towns, what makes each one worth your time, and exactly how to visit them without the crowds.
Skip the Cinque Terre crowds and base yourself in Camogli, Sestri Levante, or Lerici. You get the same Ligurian sea views, better food prices, and beaches where you can actually spread out your towel.
Families
Solo travelers
Couples
Camogli: the colorful port town that feels like old-school Italy
Camogli sits on the Ligurian coast near Genoa, and it was the first town that made me question why everyone rushes past it to Cinque Terre.
The historic center is a row of tall, multicolored facades that reflect directly into the port water. It’s not a staged photo op — people actually live and work here. You can visit Dragonara Castle and the Basilica of Santa Maria Assunta without queuing. For active travelers, the Portofino Nature Park offers 80 kilometers of trails. The “Animal Trail” is specifically recommended for families, which is exactly the kind of detail I look for when traveling with Lily and Ethan.
Take the ferry from Camogli to San Fruttuoso Abbey. It’s a short ride, and the abbey sits in a secluded cove only accessible by boat or foot. Pack a swimsuit — the beach there is pebbly but quiet.
Sestri Levante: two bays, one quiet town
Sestri Levante sits on a small peninsula with a beach on each side, and it’s the kind of place where you can spend a whole day without moving more than a few blocks.
The town is known for the Bay of Silence and the Bay of Fables. The Bay of Silence is the quieter of the two, with calm water that’s perfect for kids. Ethan spent an hour just throwing pebbles into the shallows. The Bay of Fables has a longer sandy stretch with more amenities. For dinner, head to Osteria dei Cavalieri. The menu changes with the catch, and the pine nut gelato for dessert is worth every calorie.
Sestri Levante hosts a Tuesday market with local produce, textiles, and handmade goods. It’s a good spot to pick up gifts without the souvenir-shop markup you find in the Cinque Terre villages.
Lerici and Tellaro: the Gulf of Poets, without the poetry prices
South of Cinque Terre, the Gulf of Poets stretches along the coast, and Lerici and Tellaro are its two most underrated towns.
Lerici has a seaside castle, the Castello di Lerici, that offers wide views of the bay. The Church of San Francesco has beautiful frescoes inside. The waterfront is lined with restaurants where you can eat seafood without paying Portofino prices. Tellaro is even smaller. It’s part of the Lerici municipality and is listed among the “Most Beautiful Villages in Italy.” The houses here huddle together for protection from sea storms, and the Church of San Giorgio faces the sea with a kind of quiet defiance. In the second week of August, Tellaro hosts the Octopus Festival, where you can try octopus alla tellarese or all’inferno, served with gnocchetti and seafood risotto.
For a short hike with a payoff, walk from Lerici to Montemarcello. The trail takes about an hour and ends with a panoramic view of the entire Gulf of Poets. Do it in the late afternoon when the light is golden.
Camogli vs. Sestri Levante vs. Lerici: which one should you choose?
All three towns offer a quieter Ligurian experience, but they suit different travel styles. Here’s how they compare.
| Camogli | Sestri Levante | Lerici | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Vibe | Working port, colorful houses, local feel | Peninsula with two beaches, family-friendly | Castle town, literary history, romantic |
| Best for | Hikers, photographers, solo travelers | Families with kids, beach lovers | Couples, history buffs, foodies |
| Beach quality | Pebbly, small cove near San Fruttuoso | Sandy (Bay of Fables), pebbly (Bay of Silence) | Pebbly (Venere Azzurra), quiet |
| Hiking access | Portofino Nature Park, trail to San Fruttuoso | Punta Manara trail, coastal walks | Trail to Montemarcello, coastal paths |
| Food scene | Trattoria Daa Laura, harbor-side bakeries | Osteria dei Cavalieri, gelato shops | Il Delfino, waterfront seafood |
| Train access | Direct train from Genoa (20 min) | Direct train from Genoa (40 min) | Train to La Spezia, then bus or taxi |
- Base yourself in one town and day-trip to the others — they’re all connected by train or ferry.
- Visit in May, June, or September for the best balance of good weather and smaller crowds.
- Skip the Cinque Terre train pass and buy individual tickets — you’ll save money if you’re only visiting one or two towns.
Before you visit the Ligurian coast
Are these towns really less crowded than Cinque Terre?
Yes, especially in the shoulder seasons. Camogli and Lerici see a fraction of the visitors that Monterosso or Vernazza get. In August, no coastal town is empty, but you’ll still find space on the beach here.
Can I visit these towns as a day trip from Cinque Terre?
You can, but I wouldn’t recommend it. The train ride from Monterosso to Camogli takes about an hour. You’re better off staying overnight in one of these towns and visiting Cinque Terre as a day trip instead.
What’s the biggest downside of staying outside Cinque Terre?
You lose the convenience of walking out your door and being in the middle of the action. Some towns, like Tellaro, have limited restaurant options and no nightlife. If you want bars open past 10 p.m., stay in Sestri Levante.
Is the hiking as good as Cinque Terre?
The trails are less maintained in some sections, but the views are just as good. The Camogli to San Fruttuoso hike is one of the best coastal walks in Liguria, and you’ll see almost no one on the trail.
Do I need a car to visit these towns?
No. Trains connect all the major Ligurian towns, and ferries serve the coastal destinations. A car is more of a hassle here — parking is expensive and scarce. Stick to trains and boats.
Why I keep coming back to this stretch of coast
I’ve visited Cinque Terre three times, and each time I left feeling like I’d seen the highlight reel but missed the actual movie. These quieter towns — Camogli, Sestri Levante, Lerici, Tellaro — gave me the version of Liguria I was looking for. The one where you can sit at a harbor-side bakery without a line, where the beach has room for your towel, and where the only sound is the water lapping against the rocks. For more on how to plan a trip that balances the famous spots with the quiet ones, read my guide to exploring Italy’s Cinque Terre National Park.
Sources and further reading
Visit Italy. “Alternative Coastal Towns to Cinque Terre.” 🔗
Visit Italy. “Lerici and Tellaro: Poetic Corners of the Gulf.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Discover Italy’s Dazzling Cinque Terre Villages — A deep dive into each of the five famous villages, with tips on when to visit and how to avoid the worst crowds.
Why Naples Might Surprise You With Its Raw Energy — If you’re looking for another Italian city that rewards the curious traveler, this guide covers what to eat, see, and skip in Naples.
Your Guide to Italy’s Evolving Wine Scene — Liguria produces some excellent white wines. This guide covers the regions and producers worth seeking out.