I’m standing in a 40-year-old restaurant in Parma called Parma Rotta, and the waiter has just set down a bowl of tortellini in brodo that smells like Sunday dinner at a grandmother’s house — if that grandmother had been perfecting the recipe for decades. The broth is clear and golden, the tortellini are tiny and hand-folded, and I’m already planning how to recreate it at home. Parma is one of those rare cities where the food isn’t just good — it’s the entire reason the city exists. The province produces more PDO products than almost anywhere in Italy, including Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, and Culatello di Zibello. This guide is for anyone who wants to eat their way through Parma without missing the best spots or wasting time on tourist traps.
Parma’s food culture is so intense that locals debate whether fried dough should be called gnocco fritto or torta fritta — and they care deeply about the answer.
If you only have one day in Parma, skip the museums and spend it eating — you’ll leave with a better understanding of Italian food culture than any gallery could give you.
Food lovers
First-time visitors
Day-trippers from Bologna
I visited Parma with my husband Michael and our two kids, Lily and Ethan, and I was surprised by how much the city revolves around its three main products. You can’t walk a block without seeing a salumeria or a cheese shop. The city’s food culture is deeply local, and the language around it is intensely specific — a Modenese might call fried dough gnocco fritto, but in Parma, it’s torta fritta, and locals will correct you with a smile. That kind of pride is what makes eating here feel like an event.
Ham & Cheese
Where to find the best prosciutto and Parmigiano in Parma
The best way to understand Parma’s food is to go straight to the source — the dairies and curing cellars where these products are made.
For ham enthusiasts, the place to start is Podere Cadassa in Colorno. This family-run operation has been curing Prosciutto di Parma and Culatello di Zibello since 1780, and their ancient cellar holds around 7,000 culatelli. The scent when you open the iron door is intense — earthy, salty, and slightly sweet. Next door, Al Vèdel is one of the region’s most beloved dining rooms, and Sunday lunch there has been described as part meal, part opera. I didn’t make it for Sunday, but a weekday lunch was still memorable — the torta fritta with culatello was the best I’ve had.
If you want a more structured experience, consider a half-day tour that visits both a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy and a Parma ham factory. One option runs 4 to 5 hours, costs from $161, and includes hotel pickup, a small group, and tastings at both locations. Smartphone tickets are accepted, and you can cancel free up to 24 hours before. The tour visits two traditional factories, so you see the full production process — from milk vat to aging room — and taste different ages of cheese and ham.
Book the morning tour if you can — the cheese extraction happens early, and watching the curd being pulled from the vat is the most dramatic part of the process. Afternoon tours often skip this step.
For a longer day, an 8-hour tour covers cheese, ham, and a vineyard, starting at 8:30 am from the NH Parma Hotel. It costs around $232 and includes all entry tickets, tastings, and a guide. You’ll visit a Parmigiano Reggiano factory to see live extraction and the brine room, then head to Langhirano for Parma ham production, and finish at a winery for three wine tastings. The schedule is strict — if you’re late, you miss parts, and there’s no rescheduling. Wear comfortable shoes, and note that it’s not suitable for travelers with mobility issues.
Some tours don’t allow large bags or luggage, and the 8-hour option runs rain or shine. If you’re traveling with kids, the 4-hour tour is more manageable — Ethan got restless during the longer one.
Two dairies worth visiting on your own are Caseificio Bertinelli in Noceto, established in 1895 and run by the current president of the Parmigiano Reggiano Consortium, and Caseificio Gennari in Collechio, which has one of the most extensive aging programs in Italy. Both offer tours and tastings year-round, but the city’s open-dairy festival, Caseifici Aperti, happens twice a year in spring and autumn and is a great time to visit multiple producers in one trip.
City Eats
Essential afternoon stops and one perfect dinner in Parma
If you’re only in town for a day, these are the places that will give you the best taste of Parma without wasting time.
For a quick lunch or snack, head to Salumeria Garibaldi or La Prosciutteria. Both are stocked with PDO products of every age and variety — you can grab a plate of mixed cured meats, a wedge of Parmigiano, and a glass of Lambrusco for under €20. These are casual spots where locals stop in for a quick bite, and the quality is consistently high. I grabbed a panino with prosciutto and stracchino at Salumeria Garibaldi and ate it standing at the counter — one of the best lunches I’ve had in Italy.
If you have only one evening in Parma, here’s what to order: torta fritta with culatello, anolini in brodo, tortelli di erbetta or pumpkin, a wedge of 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, and a glass of good Lambrusco. For the setting, Croce di Malta is a pared-back spot with pale walls and soft light — their deconstructed aubergine parmigiana with seared slices on Parmigiano-Reggiano béchamel is a standout. Cortex Bistrot offers ambitious tasting menus that nod to tradition, while Parma Rotta, the 40-year-old grande dame of the city, serves classic tortellini in brodo and a surprising dessert: fior di latte soft serve with housemade zabaglione poured over the ice cream.
Parma Rotta’s zabaglione dessert is not on every menu — ask for it specifically. It’s a warm, boozy custard poured over cold gelato, and it’s the kind of thing you’ll dream about after you leave.
Parma food tours: which one is right for you?
Not all food tours are created equal — here’s how to choose based on your time, budget, and interest level.
| Tour | Duration | Price | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Half-day cheese & ham tour | 4–5 hours | From $161 | First-timers, families, tight schedules |
| Full-day cheese, ham & wine tour | 8 hours | ~$232 | Foodies who want the full picture |
| Self-guided dairy visits | Flexible | Free–€15 per tasting | Independent travelers, repeat visitors |
The half-day tour is the most practical for most visitors. It includes hotel pickup, a small group capped at 8 people, and visits to both a cheese factory and a ham factory. You’ll taste different ages of Parmigiano and Prosciutto di Parma, and the guide explains the PDO certification process. The full-day tour adds a vineyard visit and three wine tastings, but the schedule is rigid — you start at 8:30 am sharp, and if you’re late, you miss the cheese extraction. For families, the half-day option is easier to manage. Lily enjoyed the cheese tasting, but Ethan got bored during the longer tour.
- Book the half-day tour if you’re short on time or traveling with kids — it covers the essentials without exhausting anyone.
- For the full experience, choose the 8-hour tour, but arrive early and leave bags at your hotel.
- If you prefer to go solo, visit Caseificio Bertinelli and Podere Cadassa — both offer tours and tastings without a group.
Before you visit Parma
Is Parma worth visiting for just one day?
Yes, absolutely. The city center is compact, and you can hit the main food spots — a dairy tour, a salumeria lunch, and a proper dinner — in a single day. It’s an easy train ride from Bologna (about an hour) and makes a great day trip.
If you have more time, consider staying overnight. The evening atmosphere is quieter and more relaxed, and you can enjoy a long dinner without rushing back to the station.
What’s the best time of year to visit Parma for food?
Spring and autumn are ideal. The Caseifici Aperti festival happens twice a year during these seasons, and the weather is pleasant for walking between dairies. Summer can be hot, and many producers slow down in August.
Winter is also fine — the food is hearty, and the crowds are thinner. Just dress warmly, as some cellars are cold even in mild weather.
Can you visit a Parmigiano Reggiano dairy without a tour?
Yes, many dairies welcome walk-in visitors, but it’s best to call ahead or check their website. Caseificio Bertinelli and Caseificio Gennari both offer tours and tastings year-round without requiring a booked tour.
If you want a guided experience with transportation included, a half-day tour is more convenient — especially if you don’t have a car.
Is Parma overrated for food?
No, but it’s not for everyone. If you’re not interested in cured meats, aged cheese, or rich pasta, you might find the food scene repetitive. The city is also small — you can see most of it in a day.
That said, the quality of the ingredients is genuinely exceptional. I’ve eaten prosciutto in many places, and Parma’s version is noticeably better — more tender, more flavorful, and less salty.
What should I order if I’m overwhelmed by the menu?
Stick to the classics: torta fritta with culatello, anolini in brodo, tortelli di erbetta or pumpkin, a wedge of 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano, and a glass of Lambrusco. This combination covers the city’s three main PDO products and gives you a perfect meal.
If you’re vegetarian, skip the ham and focus on the cheese and pumpkin tortelli — they’re excellent and widely available.
Eating Parma taught me something about Italian food culture
I came to Parma expecting good food — I left with a deeper understanding of why Italians care so much about where their food comes from. The PDO system isn’t just bureaucracy; it’s a guarantee that the prosciutto on your plate was cured in the same hills where pigs have been raised for centuries, and the Parmigiano was made from milk of cows grazing on local grass. That connection between place and plate is something you can taste, and it’s worth traveling for. For more on how to plan a food-focused trip through Emilia-Romagna, read my guide to exploring Parma as an under-the-radar destination.
Sources and further reading
Monocle. “Where to eat in Parma, Italy.” 🔗
HelloTickets. “Parmesan Cheese Tour in Parma.” 🔗
Travelers Universe. “Parma Cheese, Ham & Winery Tour with Tastings.” 🔗
Veronika’s Adventure. “Parma: Parmigiano Production and Parma Ham Tour & Tasting.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Discover Parmigiano Reggiano’s Birth in Parma — A deeper look at how the cheese is made, from milk to aging room.
Savor Parma’s Famous Prosciutto and Parmesan — Practical tips for tasting tours and where to buy the best products.
Taste Parma’s Cheese and Ham Like a Local — How to navigate menus and order with confidence.
Taste Parma’s Food Valley Delights from Artisans — Profiles of the small producers who make Parma’s food scene special.