Ravello’s Villa Rufolo Gardens Feel Different Without the Tour Groups
I walked through the gate of Villa Rufolo at 9:02 on a Tuesday morning in May. The ticket attendant barely looked up from his phone. I handed over €8 in cash, stepped into the gardens, and for the first time in my week on the Amalfi Coast, I heard birdsong before human voices. The difference between this version of Ravello and the midday chaos I’d seen two years earlier was so stark that it became the whole reason I wanted