Ancona is the only place in Italy where you can watch the sun rise over the sea and, later the same day, watch it set over the same sea — a quirk of geography that still surprises me every time I think about it. This Adriatic port city, built on a natural elbow-shaped promontory that Greek settlers named “Ankon” (elbow) back in 387 B.C., rarely makes it onto standard Italy itineraries. Most travelers speed past it toward Rome or the Amalfi Coast. That’s exactly why it’s worth a stop.
Roman arches and a cathedral on a hill
Ancona’s history shows up in stone everywhere you look. The Arch of Trajan, built in 115 A.D., still marks the ancient harbor entrance — one of the finest Roman arches in Italy, with marble that has held up against salt air for nearly two thousand years. Walk up to the Cathedral of San Ciriaco on Guasco hill, and you’re standing on a site that once held a Greek temple. The current building blends Romanesque and Byzantine styles, and the crypt hides a painting of Maria di San Ciriaco. The real payoff, though, is the panoramic view of the Adriatic from the top.
Down in the city center, Piazza del Plebiscito functions as Ancona’s living room — locals call it il salotto di Ancona. The square is ringed with cafés and historic buildings, including the Church of San Domenico and a Baroque statue of Pope Clement XII. It’s the kind of place where you order a spritz and watch daily life unfold without any sense of performance.
The Mole Vanvitelliana is one of those buildings that makes you stop and stare — a massive pentagonal shape rising straight out of the water. It was originally a quarantine station during the 18th century, then a military depot, and now it’s an exhibition space. Grab a drink at the bar across the water for the best view of it lit up at night.
The port that built a city
Ancona’s harbor has been its lifeline since ancient times. La Marina Dorica holds over 1,300 in-water berths, and the waterfront is packed with amenities — cafes, sailing activities, and a full calendar of cultural events. The Old Port area still shows evidence of the Roman port with 2nd-century B.C. city walls, and the medieval Captain’s House survived WWII bombings, its Romanesque arches hanging over the water.
Walk along the harbor at sunset and you’ll see why this city has been a maritime hub for millennia. The Lanterna Rossa — a red lighthouse at the port entrance — is a favorite spot for photographers, and from there you really can see both sunrise and sunset over the sea.
Beaches where locals go
Ancona’s coastline delivers without the crowds you’d expect. Passetto Beach is the closest to the city center — a 20-30 minute walk from Piazza del Plebiscito, or you can take a lift for €1 each way. The real draw here is the caves: colorful grottoes carved into the rock by fishermen over decades, now used as beach huts. At night, they’re lit up and look almost magical.
A bit further south, Portonovo Bay sits at the foot of Monte Conero, with white limestone cliffs and turquoise water. The beach is a mix of small pebbles and hidden coves, and it never feels packed even in summer. Bring water shoes for the pebbles, and arrive early to claim a good spot. The 11th-century Church of Santa Maria and a Napoleonic fort add historical flavor to the scenery.
For families, Sirolo and Numana are short drives from Ancona. Numana Bassa has a long sandy beach with gentle slopes, perfect for kids. The cliff path connecting the two towns offers some of the best coastal views at sunset.
At Passetto, the lift costs €1 each way. If you’re traveling with kids or carrying beach gear, it’s worth the small fee to avoid the long staircase.
Eating your way through Ancona
The food in Ancona is rooted in the sea and the surrounding hills. Brodetto is the crown jewel — a rich fish stew that traditionally contains 13 types of fish and shellfish, a nod to the 13 guests at the Last Supper. It’s slowly simmered with tomatoes, onions, and saffron, and was originally prepared by fishermen aboard their boats. You’ll find it in cozy trattorias near the port.
Another local specialty is vincisgrassi, a decadent lasagna unique to the Marche region, layered with meat sauce and béchamel. And don’t skip olive all’ascana — large green olives stuffed with meat, breaded, and fried. They’re a perfect snack with a glass of Verdicchio, the crisp white wine from vineyards west of Ancona. For reds, Rosso Conero is a robust wine from the slopes of Monte Conero.
Many small wineries in the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi zone offer tours and tastings, but you need to book ahead. September harvest time is especially lively.
Museums worth your time (and an underground world)
Ancona’s museums are underrated but rewarding. The National Archaeological Museum in Palazzo Ferretti houses artifacts from the Paleolithic through the Middle Ages, including the remarkable Frasassi Venus — a Paleolithic figurine. The Civic Art Gallery in Palazzo Bosdari features masterpieces by Titian, Carlo Crivelli, and Lorenzo Lotto.
Then there’s Museo Omero (the Homer Museum), where you interact with art through touch — ancient Greek sculptures alongside contemporary pieces by De Chirico and Pistoletto. It’s a genuinely accessible way to experience art, especially if you’re traveling with kids who need to keep their hands busy.
Beneath the city center runs a network of miles of tunnels, originally used as water tanks. Their exact history is still unclear, but you can book a tour with Ancona Sotterranea to explore them. It might be the most memorable thing you do here.
Practical things to know before you go
The best time to visit Ancona is spring or early fall — the weather is pleasant, and crowds are thin. The coastal climate can be unpredictable, so pack layers. I’d recommend a lightweight backpack for day trips to the beaches or hill towns.
Some links here are affiliate links. If you book or buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
A Samsonite Classic Leather Slim Backpack is a solid choice — it’s slim enough for city walks but holds a water bottle and a light jacket. For getting around, the train from Rome takes about 3.5 to 4.5 hours, and you can also fly into Ancona Airport (AOI). Once you’re there, the historic center is walkable, and a bike is a great way to explore the coastline.
If you’re comparing Ancona to other Italian coastal spots, it’s like the opposite of the Amalfi Coast — no lemon-stand tourist traps, just a working port city with real rhythm. (Speaking of lemons, here’s why Amalfi’s are so gigantic — a fun contrast.)
Why Ancona stays with you
Ancona doesn’t try to impress you. It just goes about its business — ferries coming and going, fishermen unloading their catch, families eating brodetto at seaside tables. The city’s resilience shows in every stone arch and cobbled lane. If you want to experience an Italy that hasn’t been polished for tourists, this is where you come.
Sources and further reading
Italia.it. “Arch of Trajan, Ancona.” 🔗
Ancona Tourism. “San Ciriaco Cathedral.” 🔗
Riviera del Conero TV. “Passetto, Ancona.” 🔗
Museo Omero. “The Mole Vanvitelliana.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
The Reason These Lemons Dwarf Every Other Lemon in Italy — A look at Amalfi’s famous giant lemons, offering a fun contrast to Ancona’s understated coastal character.