White peacocks roam the terraced gardens of Isola Bella, and from the deck of a lake ferry, their cries carry across the water. That’s the kind of detail that sticks with you on Lake Maggiore — a lake that doesn’t try to out-shout its famous neighbor, Como, but quietly offers something just as good, often for less.
Lake Maggiore is Italy’s second-largest lake after Lake Garda, spanning Lombardy, Piedmont, and the Swiss canton of Ticino.
I’ve spent plenty of time comparing Italy’s lakes, and here’s what I keep coming back to: Maggiore has the same alpine backdrop, the same elegant villas, and a fraction of the crowd energy you find on Como’s western shore. It stretches roughly 50 miles northwest of Milan, with the Borromean Islands sitting right in its center like a stage set.
Yes, Lake Maggiore is absolutely worth visiting. It gives you the Italian lake experience — grand villas, island gardens, ferry rides — without the price tag or the bottleneck crowds of Como. If you’ve been hesitating because you think you need to do Como, Maggiore is the quieter, cheaper alternative that still delivers.
Direct trains run from Milan Centrale to Stresa or Arona in about an hour and a half, so it’s an easy day trip or a longer stay. And if you’re traveling with kids, the ferry system alone keeps everyone entertained — hop on, hop off, watch the mountains slide by.
The Borromean Islands: three islands, three moods
The three Borromean Islands sit a short ferry ride from Stresa, and each one has a completely different personality.
Isola Bella is the showstopper. A 17th-century palace rises from the water, and behind it, baroque gardens climb in terraces with fountains, statues, and those white peacocks I mentioned. The gardens are the main draw — Italian-style, formal, and meticulously kept. My family spent a good hour just wandering the tiers and watching the peacocks strut.
Isola Madre is the largest of the three and feels more like a botanical escape. Rare plants, colorful blooms, and peaceful ponds replace the formal symmetry of Isola Bella. If you’re traveling with someone who prefers quiet gardens over palace tours, this is the island to prioritize.
Isola dei Pescatori is the fishing village island. It’s smaller, more lived-in, with a handful of restaurants and artisan shops. Nothing fancy — just a real, functioning village on a sliver of land. It’s a good spot for a casual lunch with lake views.
Villa Taranto and the villa gardens
If you’re coming for the villa experience, the gardens are the real draw — and Villa Taranto is the best of them.
Villa Taranto sits near Verbania on the western shore of the lake. Its botanical gardens wind along paths past lily-covered ponds and rare plant species. Peak bloom runs from April through October, so if you time your visit right, you’ll catch the full color show. The gardens are considered one of the top attractions on the lake, and I’d agree — they’re worth the trip to Verbania alone.
Other villas worth noting include the Villa Pallavicino gardens near Stresa, which have a small zoo and more manicured grounds. If you’re visiting with kids, that one tends to hold their attention a bit longer.
Note: Most villa gardens charge an entry fee, and hours shift by season. Check the official site for each before you go, especially in spring and fall when opening days can be limited.
Navigating the lake by boat
The ferry system is the backbone of any Lake Maggiore trip, and it’s surprisingly easy to use.
Ferries connect Baveno, Verbania, Locarno, and the Borromean Islands on regular schedules. Day passes let you hop on and off as you please, and the deck views of the Alps across the water are worth the ticket price on their own. If you’re basing yourself in Stresa, you can reach all three Borromean Islands in under 20 minutes.
Buy a day pass rather than single tickets if you plan to visit more than two islands or towns. The pass pays for itself by the second or third stop, and you can ride the full circuit without worrying about individual fares.
From the water, you’ll also spot the Santa Caterina del Sasso Hermitage, perched on the Lombardy shore between sky and water. Access is by ferry, then a grand staircase or a cliffside elevator carved into the rock. Inside, centuries-old frescoes survive, and the panoramic lake views from the hermitage are some of the best on the lake.
For a different perspective, the cable car from Laveno-Mombello rises to Sasso del Ferro summit. The views take in Lake Maggiore, Lake Lugano, and the Swiss Alps. There are trails at the top and mountain dining if you want to make an afternoon of it.
Summer weekends on the ferry routes between Stresa and the Borromean Islands can get crowded. Aim for a morning departure or a late-afternoon return to avoid the worst of the midday queues.
Towns worth the stop
The lake is ringed with towns that each have their own feel. These are the ones worth your time.
Stresa is the historic heart of the lake. Belle Époque villas line the waterfront, and the views of the Borromean Islands from the promenade are postcard-perfect — sorry, I mean they’re really good. It’s the most convenient base for island hopping and has the best restaurant selection on the lake.
Verbania is nicknamed “Garden on the Lake” for good reason. Waterfront strolls, artisan shops, and lake-fish restaurants line the shore, and Villa Taranto is just minutes away. Ferries from Verbania connect to Locarno, the Borromean Islands, and other towns.
Arona sits on the southwestern shore with a colorful promenade and lively piazzas. The colossal San Carlo Borromeo statue overlooks the town, and visitors can climb inside for a unique lake vista. It’s less touristy than Stresa and has a more local feel.
Cannobio, near the Swiss border, has a charming historic building stock and a waterfront promenade that feels quieter and more residential. It’s a good pick if you want to escape the Stresa crowds entirely.
Across the border in Switzerland, Locarno is reachable by scenic ferry or a short drive from Verbania. A palm-lined lakeside promenade, a historic piazza, and a funicular to Madonna del Sasso for panoramic views make it worth the crossing. If you have a full day, combine Locarno with a ferry ride back through the lake’s northern basin.
And if you have extra time, Orta San Giulio on Lake Orta sits 30 minutes by car from Lake Maggiore. Cobbled streets, Piazza Motta, and a short boat ride to Isola San Giulio make it a romantic side trip.
For a different kind of lake town, Como lies about 1.5 hours by car from Maggiore. Elegant streets and famous lakeside views await, but you’ll pay more and queue longer. If you’re already on Maggiore, you might find Como feels like a more expensive, busier version of the same thing — I wrote about the comparison here.
Practical tips for your Lake Maggiore trip
A few things to know before you go, from timing to packing.
The best time to visit is April through October. Spring brings blooming gardens and pleasant temperatures. Summer has lake activities and nightlife but also the biggest crowds. September and October offer autumn colors and fewer tourists. November through February is cold but quiet — romantic if you don’t mind bundling up.
Getting there is straightforward. The closest international airport is Milan Malpensa (MXP), roughly 50 kilometers from the lake. From there, you can rent a car or take a train to Stresa or Baveno. Regional trains also connect from Milan and other northern Italian cities.
If you’re flying into Malpensa, skip the car rental and take the train to Stresa. The station is a short walk from the ferry terminal, and you won’t have to deal with parking in the lakeside towns.
Where to stay depends on your style. Grand Hotel des Iles Borromées in Stresa is the classic luxury pick — 5-star, lake views, historical atmosphere. Hotel La Palma in Stresa is a 4-star with modern amenities and a rooftop spa right on the lakefront. Hotel Cannobio in Cannobio is a charming historic building near the waterfront promenade. And Hotel Ancora in Verbania is a restored boutique hotel with elegant decor and exceptional hospitality.
For food, Ristorante Casabella on Isola Bella serves regional cuisine with lake views. La Rampolina in Stresa does panoramic dining with a modern twist on traditional food. Trattoria Gli Olmi in Cannobio is cozy and authentic. Osteria del Castello in Verbania focuses on homemade pastas and fine wines in a relaxed setting.
If you’re packing for a lake trip, a good pair of walking shoes for the garden paths and a light jacket for the ferry deck cover the basics. Samsonite Omni 2 hardside luggage handles the travel well — I’ve used mine on multiple Italy trips and it holds up to the cobblestones.
A quick heads up — some links here are affiliate links. If you buy through them, it costs you nothing extra but earns Emily in Italy a small commission. Honestly, that’s a big part of what funds the travel and research that goes into guides like this one. As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases — and I really do appreciate the support.
- Base yourself in Stresa for the easiest access to the Borromean Islands and ferry connections.
- Buy a day ferry pass if you plan to visit more than two stops — it saves time and money.
- Visit between April and October for the best garden blooms and outdoor weather.
Before you go to Lake Maggiore
Is Lake Maggiore worth visiting compared to Como?
Yes, especially if you want a quieter, more affordable experience. Maggiore has similar alpine scenery, elegant villas, and island gardens without the crowds and high prices of Como. It’s Italy’s second-largest lake and offers plenty to see and do.
If you’re still torn, this comparison post breaks down the differences in more detail.
What is the best time to visit Lake Maggiore?
April through October is the sweet spot. Spring brings blooming gardens and mild weather. Summer is busy but lively. September and October offer autumn colors and thinner crowds. Winter is cold but peaceful and romantic.
If gardens are your priority, aim for April to June when Villa Taranto and the Borromean Island gardens are at their peak.
Which Borromean island is best to visit?
Isola Bella is the most famous for its palace and terraced gardens. Isola Madre is the largest and best for a quiet botanical escape. Isola dei Pescatori has a fishing village feel with restaurants and shops. If you have time, visit all three — they’re close enough to do in a day.
For first-time visitors, Isola Bella is the must-see. For a return trip, Isola Madre rewards a slower pace.
How far is Lake Maggiore from Milan?
Roughly 50 miles northwest of Milan, about 1.5 hours by car. Direct trains run from Milan Centrale to Stresa or Arona, making it an easy day trip. The closest airport is Milan Malpensa (MXP), around 50 kilometers from the lake.
If you’re coming from Milan for the day, take an early train and you’ll have time for the islands and a late lunch before heading back.
Is Lake Maggiore crowded in summer?
July and August draw the most visitors, and the ferry routes between Stresa and the Borromean Islands can feel packed by midday. The towns themselves are manageable, but the popular viewpoints and garden paths get busy. September is a solid alternative — the weather holds and the crowds thin out.
If you’re visiting in peak summer, start your days early and plan ferry crossings before 10 a.m. or after 3 p.m.
Why Lake Maggiore stays with you
The thing about Lake Maggiore is that it doesn’t try to impress you with a single iconic view the way Como does. Instead, it unfolds in layers — a peacock’s cry from a garden terrace, the cool air off the water during a ferry crossing, a plate of lake fish in a Cannobio trattoria. It’s the kind of place that grows on you quietly, and by the time you leave, you’re already planning the return trip. Italy’s best experiences often work that way — the ones that don’t shout the loudest are the ones you remember longest.
Sources and further reading
Winalist. “Visit Lake Maggiore.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Italy’s Diverse Regions for Solo Travelers — a broader look at how different parts of Italy work for solo trips, including lake destinations.
Sip Through Italy’s Finest: Milan and Verona’s Top Wine Restaurants — if you’re pairing a lake trip with time in Milan, this guide covers the best wine spots nearby.