Lake Maggiore is a place that often flies under the radar compared to its more famous cousin, Lake Como. Many people expect crowds and high prices, but I found it to be a surprisingly calm and affordable alternative. It feels like the kind of place where locals really vacation, offering a more relaxed pace and a chance to truly soak in the Italian lakeside atmosphere. The days here are filled with sunlight, leisurely strolls through charming piazzas, and enjoying simple pleasures like a good coffee or an afternoon aperitivo, all without the frantic rush you might find elsewhere.
Discover Lake Maggiore
My journey began in Stresa, a town that does attract international visitors but still maintains a genuine feel. You’ll find quaint cobblestone streets here, leading to elegant hotels like the historic Grand Hôtel des Îles Borromées, which famously hosted Hemingway. The main draw for many, including myself, are the Borromean Islands, easily accessible by boat from the Stresa waterfront.
The Borromean Islands
From Stresa, a short, scenic 20-minute boat ride brings you to Isola Bella, often called the ‘Pearl of the Ionian Sea’. I had seen pictures online, but nothing prepared me for its sheer magnificence. It’s home to the stunning 16th-century Borromeo Palace, a testament to the wealth and influence of the aristocratic Borromeo family. Walking through its 50 rooms, imagining historical figures like Napoleon Bonaparte and British Prime Ministers who once stayed there, is quite something. The palace and its magnificent terraced gardens are open to the public, and I highly recommend taking your time to explore them.
The Italian gardens are a highlight, with ten terraces offering breathtaking panoramic views of the other Borromean Islands and the distant Alps. It’s the perfect spot for quiet contemplation and photography. Beyond Isola Bella, you should also visit Isola Madre, known for its beautiful botanical gardens, and Isola dei Pescatori, a charming fishing village where you can watch the boats drift by. I could easily spend a full day wandering these islands, getting lost in their narrow alleyways and enjoying the tranquil scenes.
We spent a lovely afternoon on Isola dei Pescatori. Ethan, my youngest, was fascinated by the fishing nets drying in the sun, and Lily insisted on trying to feed some of the gulls, much to Michael’s amusement. It was a simple moment, but seeing their joy in these small discoveries made the trip truly special for me.
What is Isola Bella known for?
Isola Bella is especially famous for its grand Borromeo Palace and its stunning Italian gardens.
Its nickname, the ‘Pearl of the Ionian Sea’, hints at its remarkable beauty and historical significance.
A Stay at a Historic Castle
After experiencing the splendors of Isola Bella, I was fortunate enough to stay at Castello Dal Pozzo, a five-star resort located on the outskirts of Arona. This former fortress, transformed into an aristocratic residence by the noble Dal Pozzo family, offers a unique and luxurious experience. Despite its grandeur, it truly feels like you’re a guest in their historic home, surrounded by family heirlooms and antique portraits that transport you back in time.
The hotel boasts beautifully appointed bedrooms, marble bathrooms, and modern comforts like underfloor heating, all within a setting steeped in history. Legends even tell of the castle being haunted by the ghost of Barbara Visconti. While I can’t confirm any supernatural encounters, the atmosphere certainly adds to the mystique of the place. Even if you’re not staying here, the woodland surrounding the estate is well worth a visit for a peaceful walk or a meal at the Dan Garden Lounge.
One evening, Michael and I enjoyed a glass of wine at the Dan Garden Lounge. It was so peaceful there, and it felt like a world away from any crowds. Lily and Ethan were happily playing nearby, and it was one of those perfect travel moments – relaxed, beautiful, and shared.
Is Castello Dal Pozzo haunted?
There are local legends claiming the castle is haunted by Barbara Visconti.
However, many guests report only peaceful stays.
Exploring Arona and Stresa
Arona itself is a delightful town, perfect for exploring on foot. Its cobbled streets are home to some wonderful shops, and the lakefront is ideal for leisurely walks. I found a lovely little spot, Enoteca Simonotti Wine Bar, for a light lunch and an Aperol Spritz, watching the world go by. Nearby is Luigi Guffanti 1876, a renowned cheese shop that’s a must-visit for any foodies.
Stresa, a short bus ride from Arona, offers a slightly more touristy vibe but is still charming. Buses from Arona’s train station are a convenient way to get there. Remember that cash is often preferred for local travel arrangements. In Stresa, you can explore shops and enjoy a meal at places like Al Buscion. For a perfect evening view, the Sky Bar at Hotel La Palma offers an unforgettable panorama of Lake Maggiore.
How do I get between Arona and Stresa?
You can take a bus from outside the train station in Arona.
The journey is short and offers scenic views.
A Day Trip to Milan
Milan, Italy’s fashion and financial capital, is a city that pulsates with energy and style. It’s easily accessible from Lake Maggiore, making it a perfect day trip or weekend extension. The iconic Duomo di Milano, one of the world’s largest Gothic cathedrals, is an absolute marvel. Adjacent to it is the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, Italy’s oldest shopping arcade, a stunning glass-covered passage filled with high-end stores and cafes.
For art lovers, Milan is a treasure trove. Leonardo da Vinci’s masterpiece, “The Last Supper,” is housed in the Convent of Santa Maria delle Grazie. The city also boasts a dynamic art scene with galleries like the Fondazione Prada. If you’re a football fan, you can visit the stadiums of AC Milan and Inter Milan. My short visit to Milan felt like a whirlwind, rushing to see as many sights as possible, from the Duomo to the Leonardo da Vinci Museum of Science and Technology, and the hip Naviglio district, known for its art galleries and vintage shops.
During our brief visit, we managed to see the Duomo and walk through the Galleria. While the children were a bit tired by the city’s pace, they loved seeing the statues on the Duomo’s roof. Michael, a keen photographer, was in his element capturing the city’s architecture.
What are Milan’s main attractions?
Key sights include the Duomo di Milano and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
Art enthusiasts can visit “The Last Supper” and Fondazione Prada.
Culinary Delights in Milan
Milan’s dining scene is as sophisticated as its fashion. For a truly luxurious experience, I dined at Acanto at the Principe di Savoia hotel. The restaurant, with its elegant chandeliers and marble walls, offers an epitome of Italian luxury. I opted for the six-course tasting menu, a culinary journey through exquisite Milanese dishes crafted by head chef Matteo Gabrielli. Each dish was a work of art, from a delicate nettle soup served in an eggshell to a rich Parmigiana starter.
The tasting menu was an unforgettable experience, showcasing the chef’s incredible skill and creativity. While it’s a splurge, it’s well worth it for a special occasion. However, Milan also offers plenty of delicious budget-friendly options. For pastries, Le Polveri is a great choice. Radetzky is perfect for aperitivo, Trattoria Madonnina offers classic old-school Milanese dishes, and L’Antica Pizzeria serves authentic pizza. There’s truly something for every palate and budget.
We found a charming little trattoria near our hotel for dinner, where the children enjoyed simple pasta dishes. It was a good reminder that even in a world-class culinary city like Milan, the most satisfying meals can sometimes be the simplest ones, enjoyed in a relaxed setting.
Where can I enjoy great food in Milan?
For fine dining, consider Acanto at the Principe di Savoia.
Budget-friendly options include Le Polveri, Radetzky, and L’Antica Pizzeria.
Planning Your Visit in 2026
Lake Maggiore offers a fantastic blend of natural beauty, historical sites, and relaxing experiences, making it an ideal destination for 2026. When planning your itinerary, consider splitting your time between the charming towns like Arona and Stresa, and dedicate at least one full day to exploring the Borromean Islands. A day trip to Milan can also add a touch of urban sophistication to your lakeside escape.
For accommodation, whether you choose a lakeside hotel, a charming villa, or a historic castle like Castello Dal Pozzo, book in advance, especially if traveling during peak season. Remember that while Lake Maggiore maintains a more relaxed atmosphere than some other Italian lakes, it’s always wise to plan ahead for popular attractions and dining reservations.
Getting around is relatively easy, with ferry services connecting the lake’s towns and islands, and regular bus services linking nearby areas. Consider purchasing a day pass for boat travel if you plan on hopping between islands frequently. Milan is well-connected by train, making it an accessible outing from pretty much anywhere along the lake.
This area truly offers a memorable Italian experience. The combination of stunning scenery, rich history, and delicious food provides ample opportunities for both relaxation and exploration. You can find moments of quiet beauty, enjoy family-friendly activities, and indulge in some of the best Italian cuisine. Visiting Lake Maggiore offers a genuine slice of Italian life, away from the busiest tourist trails, and I’m already looking forward to my next visit.