Venice’s Grand Canal is a working water highway, and the first time you step onto a vaporetto at Piazzale Roma, you’re thrown straight into the rhythm of a city that moves by boat. But the real surprise, for me, came later — when I learned that two of Napoleon Bonaparte’s original hats, made by Parisian hatter Poupart & Cie, are kept on the third floor of a private villa on Lake Como. Only around 20 of these hats remain in existence, scattered across museums and private collections — one sold for €1.9 million at auction in 2023. That fact alone reframed how I thought about the region: these villas aren’t just pretty facades; they’re living archives.
Only around 20 of Napoleon’s original hats remain in existence, and two reside on the third floor of Villa Sola Cabiati on Lake Como.
– Forbes
This article covers how to see Venice’s core sights without the crush, which Lake Como villas are actually open to the public, and the practical logistics of connecting the two — including the Italian language layer that makes the experience richer. I’ll also point out where the crowds are worst and where you can find genuine quiet, because both cities have their tradeoffs.
You can see Venice and Lake Como in a single trip, but don’t try to do both in under five days. Venice rewards early mornings and late evenings, while Lake Como’s villas require advance booking and a car or ferry schedule that doesn’t always cooperate. The biggest caveat: most famous villas are private residences or event spaces — you can’t just walk in. Plan which ones are open to the public before you go.
Venice and Lake Como: two worlds, one northern Italian itinerary
First-time visitors to northern Italy
Couples wanting a mix of city and lake scenery
Families with older kids who can handle ferry schedules
Venice sits roughly 280 kilometres east of Lake Como — about a three-hour drive or a two-and-a-half-hour train ride from Milan, which sits between them. The geography matters because most travellers fly into Milan’s Malpensa airport, which is just a 40-minute drive from Lake Como, making the lake a logical first stop before heading east to Venice. Or the reverse: land in Venice, spend a few days, then train to Milan and onward to the lake.
The honest limitation here is time. Lake Como’s shoreline stretches for about 146 kilometres, and the famous villages — Bellagio, Varenna, Tremezzo — are connected by ferries that run on schedules that thin out significantly after 6 p.m. in shoulder seasons. Venice, meanwhile, is compact but punishing on the feet: you’ll walk 10 to 15 kilometres a day just crossing bridges and navigating alleyways. Trying to do both in a long weekend means you’ll spend more time in transit than actually seeing anything.
Drive time from Milan Malpensa airport to Lake Como, making it the most accessible lake destination from the region’s main international hub.
Forbes
What I’d do: base yourself in Varenna for the lake portion — it’s quieter than Bellagio, has direct ferry connections to both Villa Carlotta and Villa Balbiano, and the train station puts you on the Milan line for the Venice leg. Then take the high-speed train from Milan to Venice Santa Lucia station, which drops you right at the edge of the canal with no bridge to cross.
Where to go: Venice’s quiet corners and Lake Como’s open villas
The key to both destinations is knowing which spots are genuinely accessible and which are best admired from the water.
Venice beyond St. Mark’s Square
Venice’s problem isn’t a lack of things to see — it’s that everyone heads to the same three places at the same time. The Rialto Bridge, St. Mark’s Basilica, and the Doge’s Palace draw the bulk of visitors between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m., when cruise ship passengers flood the area. The solution isn’t to skip them; it’s to visit at dawn. The Venice at dawn experience is genuinely transformative — empty piazzas, light hitting the canal water, and the only sounds are garbage boats and church bells.
For a different angle, head to the Cannaregio district, where the Jewish Ghetto sits. It’s one of the oldest ghettos in the world, and the quiet alleyways around the Ghetto Nuovo feel a world away from the souvenir shops near Rialto. The Fondamenta della Misericordia here is lined with bacari (Venetian wine bars) where locals stand for an ombra — a small glass of wine — and cicchetti, the small snacks that cost around €2–3 each. It’s a practical, affordable way to eat without sitting down for a full restaurant meal.
The Venice Biennale runs from late spring through autumn in even-numbered years, and if your trip coincides, book tickets at least a month ahead. The Giardini and Arsenale venues sell out on weekends, and the queue at the ticket office can stretch 45 minutes even on a Tuesday.
Lake Como’s public villas: which ones you can actually enter
Lake Como’s villas are the main draw, but the biggest frustration for first-time visitors is figuring out which ones are open to the public. Many are private residences — Villa Oleandra (George Clooney’s place) and Villa Fontanelle (formerly Gianni Versace’s) are not accessible. But several are open, and they’re worth planning around.
Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo is the most accessible and family-friendly option. Built in the 17th century, it was given as a wedding gift to Princess Charlotte of Prussia when she married Duke George II — a rare love match in aristocratic circles at the time. The villa’s botanical gardens are the main event: rhododendrons, azaleas, and a bamboo grove that feels almost tropical. The interior holds sculptures by Antonio Canova and a collection of paintings, but the real draw is the terraced garden with direct lake views. Admission is around €15 for adults, and the ferry from Varenna takes about 15 minutes.
Villa Bernasconi in Cernobbio offers a completely different experience. Built in 1906 by a local silk merchant, it’s an example of Italian art nouveau (Liberty style), and the facade is decorated with silkworms and mulberry leaves — a direct reference to the silk trade that made the family’s fortune. Inside, it’s a museum with interactive elements: you can open drawers, answer a ringing phone, and browse historical documents. Admission is €8 for adults, and children under 14 and adults over 75 enter free. It’s a 55-minute drive from Milan, making it an easy day trip if you’re based in the city.
Villa Balbiano in Ossuccio is the largest private residence on Lake Como, spread across almost 3 hectares with six elaborately-decorated suites and a private pier. It’s available for rent only — not open for walk-in visits. If you want to see it, book a private tour through Grand Hotel Tremezzo, which manages the property.
What I’d do: pick one villa per day. Villa Carlotta in the morning (the gardens are best in spring when the azaleas bloom), then ferry to Bellagio for lunch and a walk through the cobbled lanes. Save Villa Bernasconi for a rainy day — the indoor museum works well when the weather doesn’t cooperate.
Practical planning: timing, transport, and the friction points
The logistics between Venice and Lake Como are straightforward, but the details — ferry schedules, ZTL zones, and ticket booking windows — can trip you up if you’re not prepared.
| Route | Time | Cost (approx.) | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Venice → Milan (Trenitalia Frecciarossa) | 2h 25min | €35–€70 | Speed and comfort; book 2 weeks ahead for lower fares |
| Milan → Varenna (Trenord regional) | 1h 10min | €8–€12 | Budget option; no reservation needed |
| Milan Malpensa → Como (bus + train) | 1h 15min | €15–€20 | Direct from airport; bus to Como then ferry to villages |
| Varenna → Bellagio (ferry) | 15 min | €4.60 | Scenic and essential; runs hourly in shoulder season |
Getting there: trains, ferries, and the ZTL trap
The train is the most reliable way to connect Venice and Lake Como. Trenitalia’s Frecciarossa from Venice Santa Lucia to Milano Centrale takes about 2 hours 25 minutes, and from there you switch to a regional Trenord train to Varenna or Como. The regional trains don’t require reservations, which is useful if your schedule shifts. But note: the last direct train from Milan to Varenna departs around 9 p.m., so if you’re arriving late, you’ll need to overnight in Milan.
If you’re driving, be aware of the ZTL (limited traffic zones) in both Venice and the lake towns. Venice’s ZTL is the entire island — you cannot drive onto it. Park at the Tronchetto or Piazzale Roma garages (€25–€35 per day). On Lake Como, Bellagio and Varenna have ZTL restrictions in their historic centres; your hotel should provide a pass if they have parking, but always confirm in advance. Fines for entering a ZTL without authorisation start at around €80 and arrive by mail months later.
Lake Como’s ferry schedules change dramatically between seasons. In April and October, the last ferry from Bellagio to Varenna can be as early as 6:30 p.m. Miss it, and you’re looking at a 45-minute taxi ride that costs €60–€80. Always check the Navigazione Laghi timetable the morning of your trip.
Best time to visit both
May and September are the sweet spots. The weather is warm but not oppressive, the crowds are thinner than July and August, and the ferry schedules are still running at full frequency. June through August brings the heaviest crowds to both Venice and Lake Como — Venice sees up to 140,000 visitors per day in peak season, and the lake’s narrow ferry queues can stretch 30 minutes at Bellagio’s main dock. Winter (November through February) is quiet but many villas close or reduce hours; Villa Carlotta, for example, is open year-round but the gardens are less impressive in winter.
What I’d do: aim for the last week of May. The azaleas at Villa Carlotta are still blooming, Venice’s acqua alta (high water) risk is low, and the daylight stretches to nearly 9 p.m., giving you long evenings for both cities.
On the ground: language, packing, and the Italian rhythm
The difference between a good trip and a great one often comes down to how you handle the small daily realities — ordering coffee, navigating a ferry queue, and knowing when to slow down.
La bella lingua: why Italian matters more than you think
English is widely spoken in Venice’s tourist core and at Lake Como’s major villas, but the moment you step into a bacaro in Cannaregio or a small trattoria in Varenna, the dynamic shifts. Menus in English are often marked up by 10–15% compared to the Italian version — a practice that’s common but rarely discussed. Learning a few phrases — un’ombra di rosso, per favore (a small glass of red wine, please) or il conto, grazie (the bill, thanks) — changes how you’re treated. It’s not about fluency; it’s about signalling that you’re not a day-tripper.
For families, this is where the trip gets interesting. When I travelled to Lake Como with Michael and the kids, we made a game of it: Ethan would order our gelato in Italian (due coni, uno cioccolato e uno fragola), and Lily would ask for the bill. The staff at a small bar in Varenna actually sat down with us for five minutes to correct Lily’s pronunciation of il conto — it became the highlight of her day. That kind of interaction doesn’t happen if you default to English. It’s a practical, low-stakes way to engage with the culture, and it costs nothing.
What to pack for Venice and Lake Como
Packing for both destinations in one trip means covering city walking, lake ferries, and potentially a dressier dinner. The key is layers and footwear. Venice’s streets are stone and brick — uneven, slippery when wet, and brutal on thin soles. A pair of waterproof walking shoes with good grip is non-negotiable, especially if you’re visiting in autumn or spring when acqua alta can leave walkways submerged. For Lake Como, the ferry decks are windy even in summer, so a lightweight windbreaker that packs into its own pocket is worth the space.
For evenings, both Venice and Lake Como’s nicer restaurants expect a slightly elevated dress code — no shorts or flip-flops after 7 p.m. A crossbody bag with anti-theft features (zippered compartments, slash-resistant strap) is practical for Venice’s crowded vaporettos and the ferry queues at Bellagio. And if you’re bringing a camera, a compact camera sling bag keeps your hands free for holding railings on the ferry.
In Venice, buy a 24-hour or 48-hour vaporetto pass from the official ACTV ticket machines at Piazzale Roma or Ferrovia (the train station). A single ticket costs €9.50, but a 24-hour pass is €25 and covers unlimited rides — worth it if you’re crossing the Grand Canal more than twice. The machines accept cards and cash, but avoid the ticket windows where queues can take 15 minutes.
- Book ferry tickets for Lake Como the morning of — schedules change with weather and season, and online pre-booking isn’t available for most routes.
- Learn five Italian phrases before you go: buongiorno, grazie, il conto, un’ombra, and dov’è il bagno? — they’ll save you money and open doors.
- Pack for rain in both cities, even in summer. Venice floods, and Lake Como’s afternoon thunderstorms are sudden and cold.
Can you visit Venice and Lake Como in one trip?
How many days do I need for Venice and Lake Como?
At least five full days: two for Venice, two for Lake Como, and one travel day between them. Fewer than that and you’ll spend more time checking in and out of hotels than actually exploring.
The tradeoff is that you won’t see everything — you’ll miss the outer islands of Venice (Murano, Burano) and the northern lake towns like Colico. That’s fine. Pick one focus per day and accept the gaps.
Which Lake Como villas are open to the public?
Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo and Villa Bernasconi in Cernobbio are the two main ones open for walk-in visits. Villa Balbiano and Villa Sola Cabiati are private rentals only. Villa del Balbianello in Lenno is open for guided tours but requires advance booking.
The catch: most villas close for lunch (12:30–2 p.m.) and have limited winter hours. Always check the official website before going.
Is Lake Como too touristy?
Bellagio in July and August is packed — ferry queues can hit 30 minutes, and the main square feels like a shopping mall. But Varenna, on the opposite shore, is noticeably quieter, and the western shore towns like Argegno and Ossuccio see far fewer visitors.
The tension is real: the most beautiful spots are the most crowded. The solution is to visit in May or September, stay in a less famous town, and take the early ferry (before 9 a.m.) to the popular villas.
Do I need to speak Italian in Venice?
No, but it helps. English works in hotels, restaurants near St. Mark’s, and at the train station. But in bacari, smaller trattorias, and at the ferry ticket office in Varenna, staff appreciate even a basic buongiorno.
The practical downside: menus in English often cost more. If you can read the Italian menu, you’ll save roughly 10–15% on the same dish.
What’s the best way to get from Venice to Lake Como?
Train from Venice Santa Lucia to Milano Centrale (Frecciarossa, 2h 25min), then regional train to Varenna or Como. Total time: about 4 hours. Driving takes roughly 3.5 hours but adds parking costs and ZTL risk.
The tradeoff: the train drops you at the lake’s edge in Varenna, while driving means you can stop at Bergamo’s Città Alta on the way — a medieval hilltop town that’s worth a detour if you have the time.
What stays with me about this corner of Italy isn’t the grandeur of the villas or the postcard canals — it’s the way the light changes on Lake Como in late afternoon, turning the water a colour that doesn’t have an English name, and the sound of Venetian church bells echoing across empty squares at 6 a.m. Those are the moments that make the planning worth it. For more on building a northern Italy itinerary that balances the famous spots with quieter alternatives, this Venice travel guide covers the practical route planning in more detail.
Sources and further reading
Why a Villa on Lake Como Is Always a Good Idea. Forbes, 2025.
Villas of Lake Como: The Complete Guide to Help You Decide Where to Go. Kiss from Italy.