I first heard about Cetara’s anchovy trail from a local fisherman who said, “The fish you eat tonight was probably swimming at noon.” That stuck with me. It’s not a marketing line — it’s how this small Amalfi Coast village actually works. The boats are small, the catch is daily, and the colatura di alici (the fermented anchovy sauce that defines the town) is made the same way it has been for centuries. The trail from sea to plate here is short, honest, and worth following.
A full lunch with wine runs €30–€40 versus €50–70 in Positano/Amalfi.
Should you go to Cetara just for the anchovies? Yes, but you’ll stay for everything else — the grilled squid, the local Falanghina, the fact that you’re eating in a real fishing port, not a tourist set piece.
The Boats That Make the Menu
Cetara’s fishing fleet is tiny — boats six to ten meters long with one to three people aboard. They use selective gear like gillnets and longlines, which means very little bycatch. The catch comes in during the afternoon, and by dinner it’s on your plate. Restaurants don’t print fixed menus; they write them based on what landed. That’s a level of freshness you can taste, especially in something as simple as grilled squid with lemon and wild oregano.
Anchovies are caught between March and August using lampare — boats that shine lights to attract the schools at night. The fish are processed the same day. Heads and entrails are removed, then the anchovies are layered in oak barrels with sea salt. Those barrels, called terzigno, are pressed with weights and left to ferment for a minimum of nine months. The liquid that drips out is colatura di alici, raw and never heated. It’s a direct descendant of Roman garum, refined by medieval monks in Cetara.
If you want to see the full cycle, visit during the Lampare Night in July, when the lampara boats go out with tourists on special ferries. Afterward, there’s anchovy tasting on the beach. My family loved the spectacle — even my kids, who are picky about fish, were fascinated by the lights on the water.
Colatura di alici from Cetara has PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) status. That means the entire process — from catch to barrel to bottle — must happen within the town’s boundaries. Only four producing companies hold the certification: Iasa, Delfino, Armatore, and Nettuno. You can buy bottles at local shops on the main street.
Where to Eat the Catch
The restaurant everyone talks about is Al Convento, right in the port area. It’s family-run, the menu changes daily, and there’s no English menu — that’s a good sign. You’ll pay about €30–€40 per person with wine. Order the spaghetti alla colatura: it’s dressed raw off the heat with olive oil, garlic, chili flakes, and parsley. The anchovy flavor is deep and briny, not sharp. Also try the grilled octopus and the lemon sorbet. If you’re with kids who won’t eat anchovy pasta, they do a simple tomato-basil pasta that works.
Other solid options include San Pietro (creative fish dishes, outdoor porch), La Cianciola (intimate, barrel-vaulted ceiling, sea-facing terrace), and Acquapazza (romantic setting overlooking the gulf). For a lighter meal, grab a cuoppo of marinated anchovies from a street vendor — they’re fried and served in a paper cone.
Pair everything with a local Campanian white. Falanghina and Greco di Tufo are the classic choices. The lemon groves and volcanic soil give the wines a minerality that cuts through the richness of the anchovies.
Al Convento doesn’t take reservations, so arrive early — I’d say 7:00–7:30 PM for dinner. The wait is usually short, and sitting on the terrace while the sun sets over the harbor is part of the experience.
Getting to Cetara and Making It Work
Cetara sits on the Amalfi Coast’s main road, the SS163, about 10 minutes from Maiori and 25 from Ravello. Parking is limited and costs about €3 per hour in paid lots. In summer, the lots fill by 10 AM — my husband learned that the hard way. If the lot is full, you can park in Erchie, 2.4 km away, and take a shuttle. Better yet, take the SITA bus from Salerno (about 30 minutes) or from Amalfi. The village is small and walkable once you’re there.
The beach is pebbly, not sandy, so bring water shoes if you plan to swim. Strollers work fine on the main street, but forget about the side alleys — they’re staircases. Spring and fall are the best times to visit for mild weather and fewer crowds. September is particularly good because the fishing season is still active but the summer rush has eased.
Summer brings the biggest downsides: limited parking, crowded small beach, and heat. But it also brings the festivals. June 29 is San Pietro Day, with a procession of boats and midnight fireworks. December has the Anchovy Colatura Festival, with tastings and cooking demonstrations. If you can only go once, aim for a shoulder-season month like May or September.
In July and August, the SS163 can be bumper-to-bumper by late morning. Parking in Cetara becomes nearly impossible after 10 AM. Consider the bus or come very early.
What Makes Cetara Different
I’ve eaten on the Amalfi Coast in Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello. Those places are beautiful, but they’re also expensive and crowded. Cetara is the opposite. Lunch with wine costs €30–€40 here, compared to €50–€70 in the bigger towns. More importantly, it feels lived-in. The fishing boats are not decoration — they’re the economy. The restaurants buy directly from the fleet. The colatura is made in the same port where the fish come in.
That short supply chain is not a gimmick. It means the squid you eat at lunch was probably swimming at 6 AM. It means the anchovies in your colatura were caught within the last 24 hours. And it means the town hasn’t been fully taken over by tourism. My family spent an afternoon watching a fisherman mend his nets on the pier, and nobody tried to sell us anything. That’s rare on the Amalfi Coast.
Following the Trail Home
Before I left Cetara, I bought a bottle of colatura di alici DOP from the shop on the main street. I’ve used it on pasta, on roasted vegetables, even in a salad dressing. Every time I open the bottle, I’m back on that harbor terrace watching the boats unload. That’s the thing about a short food trail — you can taste the place long after you’ve left it. If you’re planning a trip to the Amalfi Coast, make room for Cetara. For another angle on coastal seafood, check out Maiori’s beachfront kitchens, where the boats dock twenty feet from the stoves.
Sources and further reading
Amalfi Experience. “Cetara Anchovy Sauce at Alimentaria 2026.” 2026. 🔗
Amalfi Coast Travel. “Cetara Anchovies: PDO Colatura and Traditions.” 🔗
Marky’s. “Cetara Anchovies: Italy’s Oldest Sea-to-Salt Tradition.” 🔗
Authentic Amalfi Coast. “The Pride of Cetara.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Corbara’s Quiet Lake Roads Cut a Shortcut Between Coastal Towns — a lesser-known route that saves time and offers scenery away from the crowds.
Furore’s Bridge Beach Deserves More Than the Thirty-Second Photo Stop — why you should linger at this famous fjord beach and what to do there.
Vettica’s Only Restaurant Doesn’t Take Reservations — and Somehow That Works — another Amalfi Coast dining experience built around spontaneity and fresh catch.
Explore Italy’s Amalfi Coast Beaches — a guide to the best beaches along the coast, including Cetara’s pebble beach.