I’ve been to Italy six times now, and I still think about the food. Not the pasta back home—the pasta there. The kind you remember months later, when you’re staring at a jar of marinara and wondering why it doesn’t taste like anything. The Amalfi Coast is especially good at this. It’s not just the lemons or the seafood; it’s the way every dish feels tied to a specific town, a specific coast. So if you’re going to Italy and you’re not sure what to eat before you leave, let me narrow it down to the things that genuinely surprised me—and the things I’d cross an ocean for again.
Forget the tourist menus near the main piazzas. The dishes that matter on the Amalfi Coast are the ones invented by locals—scialatielli in Amalfi, spaghetti alla Nerano in Nerano, gnocchi alla Sorrentina in Sorrento. Eat them where they were born, and you’ll taste the difference.
Pasta and primi: the shapes you won’t find at home
Start with scialatielli ai frutti di mare. These thick, hand-cut ribbons of pasta were invented in Amalfi in 1976 by chef Enrico Cosentino. They’re shorter and chunkier than tagliatelle, with a rough texture that grabs the sauce. The classic version comes with clams, mussels, shrimp, and squid in a light tomato and white wine sauce. You’ll find it at L’Abside in Sorrento, among other spots. My family and I ordered it at a tiny place in Positano and my husband, who rarely raves about pasta, asked for a second bowl.
Another dish that’s earned a cult following is spaghetti alla Nerano. It comes from the village of Nerano, and it’s deceptively simple: spaghetti tossed with fried zucchini slices, aged Provolone del Monaco, and Parmesan. No cream—the cheese and pasta water create the silky texture. The original version was created decades ago at Da Emilia, a restaurant that still serves it today.
You can’t skip gnocchi alla Sorrentina. These are potato gnocchi baked with San Marzano tomato sauce, fior di latte mozzarella, and basil, often served in the hand-crafted terracotta dishes typical of Sorrento. It’s comfort food, but elevated. And if you’re near Minori, look for ’ndunderi—soft ricotta dumplings that locals insist are not gnocchi, usually served with tomato sauce and basil. They’re lighter and tangier, and they’re a specialty you won’t see on every menu.
Seafood and secondi: from anchovies to fried cones
The coast runs on fish, and alici di Cetara are a perfect example. These anchovies are hand-caught at night off the town of Cetara, then preserved in salt or turned into colatura di alici—an amber, savory sauce that’s a direct descendant of Roman garum. The production starts on March 25th (Feast of the Annunciation) and runs through summer. You can taste the colatura drizzled over pasta or buy a bottle to take home. A shop called Alici Come Prima in Cetara specializes in it.
For a casual snack, grab a cuoppo d’Amalfi—a paper cone filled with lightly battered and deep-fried small fish, squid, and shrimp. It’s the seaside version of fish and chips, and it’s best eaten while walking along the marina. In winter, look for totani e patate, a squid-and-potato stew cooked with tomatoes and white wine. And if you want something you can replicate at home, spaghetti alle vongole is the classic: clams, garlic, olive oil, parsley, and a squeeze of lemon. It’s cucina povera at its best.
For the freshest seafood, head to the trattorie in Marina Grande in Sorrento or the small harbors in Amalfi and Positano. Locals eat there. The menus change with the morning catch, and the prices are often lower than the restaurants with a view of the main square.
Cheeses, antipasti, and the lemon in everything
The Amalfi Coast is also where you’ll find some of Italy’s best cheeses. Mozzarella di bufala—made from water buffalo milk—has been DOP-protected since 1993. It’s served simply with prosciutto or grilled vegetables. You can visit Inn Bufalito in Sorrento to taste it fresh. Then there’s Provolone del Monaco, a pear-shaped, slightly spicy cheese aged in mountain caves, and treccia Sorrentina, a hand-braided cow’s milk cheese that’s perfect in a Caprese salad with ripe tomatoes and basil.
And then there are the lemons. The Sfusato Amalfitano lemon is thick-skinned, intensely aromatic, and surprisingly sweet. It shows up in everything from pasta al limone (a creamy sauce made with lemon juice, zest, butter, and cheese) to risotto al limone, where the zest infuses the rice and it’s finished with butter, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and sometimes mint. If you’re in Sorrento, try Fuoro for a pasta al limone that uses lemons soaked overnight.
Desserts you’ll dream about
Speaking of dessert, delizia al limone is the coastal classic. It’s a dome of soft sponge cake soaked in limoncello syrup, filled with lemon cream, and often topped with a candied lemon slice. It originated on the Sorrento peninsula and you’ll find it in almost every restaurant. But the best versions are in family-run pasticcerie, not mass-produced tourist spots.
Sfogliatella Santa Rosa is another local treasure. It’s a layered, shell-like pastry filled with semolina cream scented with citrus and vanilla, topped with an amarena cherry. It was invented at the Santa Rosa da Lima Monastery in Conca dei Marini. Babà—a rum-soaked yeast cake—is also common, and torta caprese, a dense gluten-free almond and dark chocolate cake, supposedly originated by accident on Capri around 1920.
Drinks: limoncello, spritz, and local wine
You can’t leave Italy without a proper limoncello. The Amalfi Coast version is made by steeping Sfusato Amalfitano lemon peels in alcohol, then blending with sugar syrup. It’s served ice-cold as a digestif. Historically, monks made it for digestion. Try a Limoncello Spritz (limoncello, Prosecco, soda water, and a lemon slice) for a daytime cocktail that tastes like summer. The region also produces Costa d’Amalfi DOC wines, including crisp whites from Falanghina and Biancolella grapes, and reds from Piedirosso. If you’re adventurous, look for concerto, a complex liqueur made from over a dozen herbs grown on the coastal hills.
If you’re visiting in January, the lemons are at peak season, and winter specialties like rich seafood stews and citrus-infused desserts are especially good. Also, the town of Tramonti has its own pizza style—whole-wheat crust with local Corbarino tomatoes and fior di latte from the Lattari Mountains—that’s worth seeking out.
Eating like a local: where to go
The key is avoiding the menus with photos near the main sights. Instead, find family-run trattorie and seaside osterie. In Sorrento, Pizzeria da Franco is a solid bet for Pizza Napolitana. In Minori, L’Antica Cartiera serves ’ndunderi. And if you’re in Amalfi, stop by Da Gemma for delizia al limone. If you want to learn how to make these dishes yourself, Iamme Ia! offers cooking classes that cover everything from homemade ravioli to tiramisù.
Before you go: a few honest notes
Some dishes are hyped more than they deserve. Pesce all’acqua pazza (fish poached in cherry tomatoes and garlic) can be bland if the tomatoes aren’t peak season. And tourist‑trap restaurants near the Amalfi Cathedral often serve frozen seafood dressed as fresh. My rule: if the menu lists half a dozen languages and has pictures, walk away. If the place is full of locals at 1:30 PM, sit down.
Also, don’t expect the same dish to taste the same everywhere. Scialatielli varies by restaurant; some versions are heavier, some lighter. That’s part of the fun.
Why these dishes matter—and what to take home
What struck me most is how each dish is tied to a specific place. You can’t really replicate spaghetti alla Nerano without the Provolone del Monaco from the mountains above the coast. You can’t make delizia al limone without the Sfusato Amalfitano lemon. It’s not just food—it’s geography. And that’s why, before you leave Italy, you should eat these dishes where they were born. For more on the towns themselves, read my guide to the best Amalfi Coast towns or check out the lesser‑known garden path in Ravello.
Sources and further reading
The Lazy Italian. “Seven Dishes to Try on the Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
Explored by Marta. “Foods on the Amalfi Coast, Italy.” 🔗
The Tour Guy. “15 Top Foods and Drinks to Try in the Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
Iamme Ia!. “What to Eat in Sorrento & the Amalfi Coast – Must Try Local Dishes 2026 Food Guide.” 🔗
Amalfi Coastyle. “Traditional Amalfi Coast Recipes – A Culinary Journey.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Visit Italy’s Prettiest Amalfi Coast Towns — a rundown of the must‑see coastal villages, from Positano to Atrani, with tips on when to go and where to park.
Cava de’ Tirreni Trades Sea Views for Cloisters and Cool Mountain Air — a less‑crowded alternative to the coast, with a beautiful medieval center and local food spots.
A Boutique Winery Stay Above Tramonti Overlooks the Whole Coastline — for wine lovers who want to stay in the hills and taste Costa d’Amalfi DOC wines right where they’re made.