You should really consider Sorrento for your next trip; it’s considered one of the world’s first holiday resorts. Back in Roman times, people loved the Bay of Naples and a relaxed pace of life. Today, that charm still draws crowds, but smart planning can help you find a quieter experience.
Timing Your Sorrento Visit
If you go in April or October, you’ll find pleasant weather and fewer people. It’s much easier to enjoy the town when it’s not packed with daytrippers from Naples or cruise ship passengers. This also goes for the wider peninsula – avoiding peak season and even weekends makes a big difference.
When Sorrento has space to breathe, you can really soak in the atmosphere. From your hotel balcony or a restaurant terrace, you’ll have amazing views of cliffs, yachts, and Mount Vesuvius. It’s a chance to browse local leather goods and lemon-scented souvenirs in the old town and get a feel for the peninsula’s character. You’ll notice its sunny side and also a tougher edge from its history of invasions and economic challenges.
For easy strolling, start your walk on Corso Italia. You can easily find ice cream at Gelateria David or leather goods at Mary’s. You’ll quickly feel like a local.
Delicious Food Experiences
Food in this region is a real highlight, especially when it comes to simple, fresh ingredients. In Sorrento, a small, family-run trattoria called La Cantinaccia del Popolo is a must-visit. They serve classic dishes like homemade pasta with aubergines and tomato sauce, crusty bread, and fantastic fried seafood. Be prepared for a queue, as they don’t take bookings, but it’s worth it for the authentic taste.
Another great option is L’Antica Trattoria, a place that’s been around since the 1930s. While it’s a bit pricier, their set lunch menu offers good value. For seafood with a view, Bagni Delfino is a top choice. Zi’Ntonio Mare is also recommended, and they even offer a helpful courtesy car service to and from hotels, which is really useful given the steep streets and expensive taxis. They have good pizzas and a tasty seafood pasta, and the waiters will even fillet fish for you tableside.
I remember Michael trying to order his favourite pasta dish here; the waiter was so patient explaining the local specialties. It was a lovely moment watching Lily and Ethan’s faces light up at the giant mozzarella balls.
Local Flavors to Savor
You absolutely have to try the limoncello, made from the region’s famous lemons. Even though it might not be made at the restaurant, the quality is exceptional. It’s a taste that truly embodies the Italian Riviera.
There are also other solid local restaurants to consider, like La Fenice, O’Parucchiano, and Ristorante Sorrento, which offer a similar commitment to fresh, local cuisine.
Driving the Amalfi Coast
The drive from Sorrento to Maiori is famous for its “road of a thousand bends.” It’s a dramatic journey with sheer drops and narrow routes through old towns. You’ll share the road with local buses, tourists, locals, coaches, pedestrians, cyclists, and scooters.
Driving here requires absolute focus. It’s a technically challenging route. You have to drive defensively in Italy, but be prepared for locals who might veer into your lane, sometimes while distracted. It’s a good idea to rent a small car so you can navigate the narrow streets and find parking more easily, avoiding larger vehicles. Lay-bys are few and far between, so keep them in mind. It’s best to plan your stops and parking before you leave.
I was a bit nervous about driving this stretch, especially with the kids in the back, but Michael was a calm and focused driver. We made sure to pull in our wing mirrors at tight spots. It took us almost two hours for the 38km stretch.
Navigating the Coast
To make the journey more relaxed, consider hiring a driver, taking the SITA buses, or using the ferries that travel along the coast. The ferries offer a fantastic way to see the coastline from a different perspective. The sparkling seas, limestone cliffs, and towns like Positano and Amalfi revealed along the way are simply unforgettable.
It’s essential to avoid weekends, as local daytrippers add significantly to the traffic and parking challenges. If you’re not keen on driving yourself, the buses and ferries are excellent alternatives that still provide stunning views.
Postcards from Positano
Positano is the iconic image of the Amalfi Coast. John Steinbeck described it as a dream place that feels more real after you’ve left. The town cascades down the hillside with buildings in shades of butter, peach, and terracotta, making it incredibly photogenic. However, it is also one of the most expensive places on the peninsula, with high prices for hotels, restaurants, and boutiques.
The best way to experience it, especially for a short visit, is to take a day trip. Arrive by boat to appreciate the full visual impact. Travelmar operates ferries from Amalfi, which is a convenient and scenic way to get there. Once you arrive, take a couple of hours to wander through the narrow, wisteria-lined laneways. You can find custom sandals at Safari or explore the Franco Senesi gallery, which features contemporary artwork.
I wanted to get a good photo of Positano for my travel journal, and arriving by boat provided the perfect vantage point. Lily was fascinated by the colourful houses tumbling down to the sea.
A Glimpse of Positano
Visiting Positano off-peak can offer a sense of the “vanished Positano” Steinbeck wrote about. It’s still incredibly beautiful, but the crowds can make it feel less serene. Even a short visit allows you to appreciate its unique beauty and atmosphere.
Ravishing Ravello
Ravello is a mountain town worth the journey from Amalfi. The roads leading up can be a bit of a tangle, but the reward is stunning terrace gardens that are among the most beautiful in Europe. As you walk through the narrow streets, you can escape the crowds and pass by small villas and vegetable gardens. Gaps in the buildings offer breathtaking views of gorges and terraces descending the hills.
You might hear church bells or see a priest in the piazza, giving you a sense of the real life in this charming town. Famous figures like Wagner, Jackie Kennedy, and Gore Vidal were fans. A plaque in the town square even notes that Humphrey Bogart filmed a movie there.
We decided to visit Villa Rufolo first, which has lovely gardens and coastal views. But Villa Cimbrone is truly a must-see. Its landscaped gardens date back to Roman times and lead to the Terrace of Infinity, which lives up to its name. We arrived right when it opened at 9 am and had it almost to ourselves for a peaceful half hour.
Is Ravello worth the trip
Yes, absolutely. The views and gardens are spectacular, offering a tranquil escape compared to the coastal towns.
If you’re looking for accommodation, Hotel Villa Cimbrone is a luxurious five-star option set within the gardens. However, there are also many pleasant casa vacanze (holiday apartments) available in the town itself, offering a more local feel.
The Path of the Gods
To truly escape the traffic and experience the natural beauty of the Sorrento Peninsula, hiking the Path of the Gods (Il Sentiero degli Dei) is ideal. This 7.8km trail starts in Agerola and leads downhill towards Nocelle, with an option to continue to Positano.
To beat the crowds, start early, ideally midweek. Take the bus to Bomerano, where signs will guide you to the trailhead. The hike takes around three hours, including stops for photos and rest. You’ll need good hiking boots, a sun hat, sunglasses, and plenty of water.
Guided tours are also available, often including hotel transfers, which can be helpful if you’re not familiar with the routes or public transport. These tours can range in price depending on the group size.
Is the Path of the Gods easy
The trail is mostly downhill from Agerola to Nocelle, making it manageable for most fitness levels. However, sturdy footwear is recommended due to the rocky terrain.
This hike offers a completely different perspective of the region, focusing on the wild, natural landscape rather than the picturesque towns. It’s a fantastic way to clear your head and enjoy some spectacular scenery.
Capri vs. Ischia
Capri is undoubtedly a beautiful island, famous for its dramatic coastline and the legend of the sirens. However, a rushed day trip might not be as rewarding as spending time in places like Ravello or hiking the Path of the Gods. If you do decide to visit Capri, plan your visit in advance.
Highlights include exploring ancient sites, visiting the Blue Grotto (Grotto Azzurra), and taking the chairlift from Anacapri up Monte Solaro. Be aware that Capri is also very crowded and expensive, and public beaches are limited. To enjoy the nicest coves, consider hiring a boat.
For an alternative, Ischia is a larger island that is less visited and less flashy than Capri. It offers more public beaches and a more relaxed atmosphere. It might be worth visiting both to see which appeals to you most.
Should I visit Capri
Capri can be wonderful if you plan carefully and are prepared for crowds and higher prices. For a more peaceful experience, Ischia is a great alternative.
Michael found Capri quite overwhelming with the crowds during our visit, and we opted for a quieter boat trip around the island to appreciate its beauty without the packed feel of the main towns.
Pompeii and Herculaneum
While not directly on the Sorrentine Peninsula, you cannot visit this region without acknowledging the presence of Mount Vesuvius. The volcano’s devastating eruption in AD 79 famously buried the city of Pompeii. A visit to Pompeii is engrossing but can be very hot, crowded, and overwhelming due to its sheer size.
As an alternative, consider Herculaneum in the Neapolitan suburb of Ercolano. It’s a more manageable site where you can walk through streets and step into houses and baths. The preservation is astounding, showing details like bedframes and mosaics. You can also see reconstructed skeletons of people found huddled in grottos. The pyroclastic flows that hit the town were incredibly fast and devastating.
At Herculaneum, you can get a guide to help you navigate the site efficiently and highlight the most interesting features. We found that clubbing together with other visitors to hire a guide made the experience much richer. It’s amazing to see the ongoing restoration work and imagine what else lies beneath the modern buildings.
Is Herculaneum better than Pompeii
Herculaneum offers a more intimate and better-preserved experience, making it easier to comprehend the scale of the disaster.
Seeing the preserved details at Herculaneum really brought history to life for Ethan and Lily. They were fascinated by the ancient houses and the stories our guide shared.
A Moment in Amalfi
The town of Amalfi is incredibly beautiful but also a notorious traffic bottleneck, making parking very difficult. If you arrive by car, aim for parking at Piazzale dei Protontini early in the morning, especially during busy times. It costs about €3 per hour.
Amalfi is a good place to catch boats up and down the coast. It’s about a 25-minute ferry ride to Positano. While you’re there, climb the steep streets and 62 steps to the medieval Cattedrale di Sant’Andrea. Remember to cover your shoulders and knees out of respect.
For a meal, Il Tari offers a classy respite from the crowds. They serve good gluten-free pasta, have a set menu for €22, and offer tasty specials, including anchovies marinated in local lemon. Like Positano, Amalfi is best approached from the water for exquisite views.
Experiencing Amalfi Town
The town itself has a rich maritime history and was once a powerful maritime republic. Exploring its narrow streets reveals a sense of its past importance. The cathedral is a dominant and imposing structure, a testament to its historical significance.
Consider taking the ferry to Amalfi as part of a coastal exploration. The arrival by sea offers a stunning introduction to the town and the surrounding dramatic scenery. It’s a view that stays with you.
Final Thoughts for Your Trip
If you’re planning a trip to this region, consider basing yourself a little outside the main tourist hubs, perhaps in Maiori. It has an unusually long beach for the peninsula and offers great gluten-free options at Osteria dell’Olma. If your time is limited, prioritize places like Ravello, Priano, or Atrani over the major, often crowded, “Insta-famous” spots like Positano.
And definitely leave room for authentic Neapolitan pizza. It’s smaller, with a slightly thicker and fluffier crust than Roman-style pizza, and cooked very quickly with no oil on the base. It’s a delicious and simple pleasure that perfectly caps off any Italian adventure. This region has so much to offer, and 2026 looks like a fantastic year to visit.
Getting There and Around
You can fly into Naples (NAP) with airlines like Ryanair and Aer Lingus. The approach over the city and the Bay of Naples is stunning. If you plan on driving, especially along the Amalfi Coast, consider getting car hire excess insurance for peace of mind. Ferries provide a scenic and convenient way to travel between destinations, connecting from Naples.
Be aware that taxis are very expensive; we paid €17 for a short 3km trip. For more information on visiting, check out italia.it and sorrentotourism.com/en.
I hope this gives you a good starting point for planning your own adventure. Enjoy the beauty and flavours of this incredible part of Italy!