I pulled into Cetara on a late Tuesday morning, and the first thing I noticed was the smell of salt and the sight of a fisherman hosing down his boat. The trattoria next to the pier had a handwritten menu on a chalkboard, and the owner gestured toward the bucket of anchovies being carried inside. That’s when I understood what “the catch never left the harbor” really means. The Amalfi Coast is home to some of Italy’s best seafood restaurants, but in Cetara the fish is so local it practically jumps from the boat to the pan. theglamandglitter.com
The fish that came to my table was caught that morning, not trucked from a wholesale market — and you could taste the difference.
– Emily Carter
If you want the freshest seafood on the Amalfi Coast, skip the touristy Positano spots and head to Cetara. Find a trattoria where the day’s catch is brought straight from the boat to your plate. It’s not about white tablecloths — it’s about anchovies that taste of the ocean.
Seafood lovers
Foodies
Travelers seeking authentic local cuisine
This guide is for anyone who wants to eat like a local in a fishing village that’s still working, not just posing for photos. I’ll tell you what makes Cetara’s seafood different, what to order, and how to handle the logistics — including the reality of getting there on the winding Amalfi Drive. I visited with my husband Michael and our kids, Lily and Ethan, and even the picky eaters cleaned their plates.
Cetara’s Fishing Tradition Sets the Table
Understanding why the fish is so fresh starts with the harbour.
Cetara has been a fishing port for centuries, and it’s still one of the few Amalfi Coast towns where you’ll see working boats unloading at midday. The town’s specialty is colatura di alici, a fermented anchovy sauce that’s basically the local umami bomb. It’s used in pasta, drizzled over vegetables, or simply eaten with bread. Michael tried it on a pizza and spent the rest of the trip asking for it everywhere.
The restaurants here don’t rely on deliveries from Naples. Most of them buy directly from the cooperative that runs the morning auction. That means the fish on your plate was swimming maybe twelve hours earlier. I’ve eaten at fine-dining spots in Positano where the fish was beautiful but felt… distant. Here, you can see the harbour from your table. It makes a difference.
Go for lunch on a weekday to avoid the weekend crowds. The trattorias fill up quickly with day-trippers from Salerno, and the best tables are the ones near the kitchen — you can see the chef plucking the fish.
What to Order at a Cetara Trattoria
The menu is short, and that’s a good sign.
Most trattorias in Cetara serve a handful of dishes that change with the season. The classic is spaghetti alle vongole (clams), but the real star is anything with colatura di alici. I ordered spaghetti with anchovy sauce and a dusting of lemon zest. It was salty, briny, and deeply savoury. Lily, who usually only eats plain pasta, asked for seconds. Ethan tried the grilled calamari and ate the whole portion.
For a second course, look for frittura di paranza — a mixed fry of tiny fish and squid, served with lemon. It’s the kind of dish that’s impossible to make badly when the fish is that fresh. Skip the dessert; the seafood is the point. Most meals end with a glass of limoncello made from local Sorrento lemons, which you can read about in our guide to Sorrento’s lemon delights.
Portions are generous, but not huge. If you’re hungry, order a primo (pasta) and a secondo (fish). The staff are used to families and will bring a small plate of bread for kids without asking.
Getting to Cetara and Parking Reality
The Amalfi Drive is stunning, but it’s also a challenge.
Cetara sits on the SS163, the coastal road that connects Amalfi to Salerno. It’s roughly 40 minutes from Amalfi town by car, but traffic can double that in summer. Parking is scarce — there’s a small lot near the harbour, but it fills by 10 a.m. I’d suggest arriving early or using the SITA bus from Salerno, which drops you right at the entrance. The road trip from Milan to the Amalfi Coast is a fantastic way to see Italy, but if you’re only coming for a day, the bus is simpler. Check our Italian road trip guide for more details.
The coastal road is narrow and winding. If you’re prone to carsickness, bring medication. Also, rental cars often get scratched by passing buses. I’d recommend a compact car or using local transport.
Cetara vs. Other Amalfi Coast Seafood Spots
How does Cetara compare to the famous restaurants in Positano and Ravello?
I’ve eaten at Lo Scoglio in Nerano (the one Stanley Tucci featured) and at La Sponda in Positano. Both are excellent, but they’re also expensive and require reservations weeks ahead. Cetara’s trattorias are more casual, cheaper, and the fish is arguably fresher because it’s caught locally. The trade-off is atmosphere — you won’t get candlelit views of the sea. You’ll get a plastic table on the pavement and the sound of a fisherman yelling at his son. I prefer that.
| Place | Freshness | Price range (per person) | Reservation needed |
|---|---|---|---|
| Cetara trattoria | Caught that morning | €25–€40 | Not usually (lunch weekday) |
| Lo Scoglio, Nerano | Very fresh | €50–€80 | Yes, weeks ahead |
| La Sponda, Positano | Fresh | €80–€120 | Essential |
- For the freshest seafood, choose a town where the boats still dock — Cetara is the best example.
- Order spaghetti with colatura di alici and a mixed fry of local fish.
- Skip the fancy views; the harbour is the view.
Before You Go to Cetara
Is Cetara worth a detour from the main Amalfi Coast towns?
Yes, if you love seafood. It’s a small town, so you can see the whole thing in an hour, then eat for two. It’s not a place to spend a full day unless you’re lounging on the small beach.
No, if you’re after shopping or nightlife. Cetara is quiet and shuts down early. Come for lunch, then drive to Amalfi for the cathedral.
How do I get to Cetara without a car?
The SITA bus from Salerno station runs every 30–60 minutes. The journey is about 40 minutes and costs around €3. Buses can be crowded, so try to board at the start of the route.
Alternatively, you can take a ferry from Salerno or Amalfi to the port of Cetara, but check the summer schedule — ferries don’t run as often as buses.
What’s the downside of eating in Cetara?
It’s not a trendy spot, and the menus are limited. Don’t expect creative fusion dishes or a sommelier. The wine list is local and basic. Also, the town can get busy with Italian tourists in August, so the peace factor drops.
If you’re a vegetarian, you’ll find pasta with tomato sauce or vegetables, but the focus is firmly on fish.
Can I visit Cetara with kids?
Yes. The pedestrian area is small, so children can walk safely. The restaurants are used to families, and many will bring out a small portion of pasta for kids before the main meal. The beach is pebbly, so bring water shoes.
My son Ethan loved watching the boats. Lily wasn’t a fan of the fish smell, but she ate the spaghetti happily.
Is there a dress code for the trattorias?
No. Casual is fine. I wore jeans and a linen shirt. The fancier places on the coast require resort wear, but not here. You’ll see fishermen in rubber boots eating at the next table.
That said, avoid wearing swimwear inside. Some restaurants have a sign saying “no swimsuits” — it’s a real thing.
Why Cetara Stays in My Memory
I’ve eaten at a lot of restaurants across Italy, but the meal in Cetara felt different. It wasn’t the technique or the presentation — it was the simple honesty of food that came from the sea a few hundred metres away. Michael and I sat there with the kids, the sun warm on our shoulders, and nobody was rushing us. That’s the kind of travel experience that makes you want to slow down and stay longer. If you’re planning your own trip, our guide to the prettiest Amalfi Coast towns will help you connect the dots.
Sources and further reading
The Glam & Glitter. “The Best Restaurants on the Amalfi Coast.” 2026. 🔗
Emily in Italy. “Discover Sorrento’s Lemon Delights and Amalfi Coast Views.” 2025. 🔗
Emily in Italy. “An Italian Road Trip from Milan to the Amalfi Coast.” 2025. 🔗
Emily in Italy. “Visit Italy’s Prettiest Amalfi Coast Towns.” 2025. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Italy’s Amalfi Coast Becomes Crown Jewel — A broader look at why the Amalfi Coast is so popular, with tips for avoiding the crowds.
Experience the Amalfi Coast’s Romantic Road — Driving the SS163, with stops including Cetara, and advice on where to pull over for photos.
Honeymoon in Italy’s Amalfi Coast with Points — Using travel rewards to stay along the coast, with a mention of small towns like Cetara for authentic meals.
Live La Dolce Vita on the Amalfi Coast — A general guide to lifestyle tips, including where to eat like a local.