I’m standing on a cliffside path in Conca dei Marini, looking down at a sliver of beach I can only reach by boat, and I realize I haven’t heard a car horn or a tour guide’s loudspeaker in over an hour. That’s rare on the Amalfi Coast, a 34-mile stretch of coastline in Campania that sees more than five million tourists each year, according to Forbes. Most of those visitors funnel into Positano, Amalfi, and Ravello, leaving quieter pockets like this one for travelers who know where to look.
If you want the Amalfi Coast’s dramatic cliffs, turquoise water, and excellent food without the shoulder-to-shoulder crowds, base yourself in Conca dei Marini or one of the smaller towns like Minori or Cetara. You lose nothing on beauty and gain actual breathing room.
Couples seeking quiet luxury
Families who want a beach club without the chaos
Solo travelers who value space
Conca dei Marini: The town Jackie Kennedy found first
This cliffside town sits roughly halfway between Sorrento and Salerno, about a 25-minute drive from Positano, and it’s been quietly hosting discerning travelers since 1962, when Jackie Kennedy visited its port on vacation, as InsideHook notes. That’s the kind of low-key pedigree that tells you everything.
The town’s two major luxury properties anchor opposite ends of the experience. Monastero Santa Rosa is a 17th-century monastery restored by Texas-based entrepreneur Bianca Sharma into a five-star boutique resort with 20 rooms and suites, each with a sea view. It has a Michelin-starred restaurant called Il Refettorio, an indoor-outdoor cocktail bar, a vine-covered poolside cafe, and a wine cellar that highlights Italian whites and vintage Barolos. The spa uses products from Santa Maria Novella and emphasizes Italian thermal water bathing traditions. There’s also an outdoor fitness center and a vanishing edge infinity pool that seems to drop straight into the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Borgo Santandrea opened in 2022 as the first luxury hotel on the Amalfi Coast in 15 years, and it’s the better fit if you’re traveling with kids. It has two dining destinations, two terrace cocktail bars, an oceanfront pool, a wellness center, and a fleet of luxury boats called the Borgo Fleet for trips to Capri, Ischia, or Positano. Its signature restaurant, Alici, recently earned a Michelin star. Both hotels offer daily complimentary shuttles to Amalfi, which is a 10-minute drive away.
Book a table at Il Refettorio at Monastero Santa Rosa at least two weeks in advance during summer. The restaurant is open to non-guests, and tables with the best sea views go fast.
Five quieter towns that deserve your attention
A longtime local told Business Insider that the key to enjoying the Amalfi Coast without the crowds is picking the right base. Here are five towns that deliver on scenery and food without the tourist crush.
Scala and Tramonti are not coastal towns. You’ll need a car or a taxi to reach the beaches and ferry ports. If your priority is swimming and boat trips, choose Minori or Cetara instead.
Conca dei Marini vs. Positano: Which base is right for you?
If you’re torn between the two, here’s how they actually compare on the things that matter most during a trip.
| Factor | Conca dei Marini | Positano |
|---|---|---|
| Crowds | Quiet, even in peak season | Packed June through September |
| Luxury hotels | Monastero Santa Rosa, Borgo Santandrea | Il San Pietro di Positano, Le Sirenuse |
| Beach access | Lido del Capo di Conca (small beach) | Spiaggia Grande (large, crowded) |
| Dining | 2 Michelin-starred restaurants | Multiple high-end options |
| Ferry connections | Limited; best by car or hotel shuttle | Frequent ferries to Capri, Amalfi, Salerno |
| Family suitability | Good (Borgo Santandrea is family-friendly) | Good (Hotel Eden Roc is best for families) |
| Nightlife | Minimal; quiet evenings | Lively bars and late dinners |
Il San Pietro di Positano offers a complimentary two-hour boat cruise daily except Sundays, which is a rare perk even among luxury hotels. If you stay in Conca dei Marini, you can still visit Positano for dinner or a boat trip without dealing with the crowds at night.
- Base yourself in Conca dei Marini, Minori, or Cetara for a quieter experience with the same coastal beauty.
- Book dinner at Monastero Santa Rosa’s Michelin-starred restaurant at least two weeks ahead in summer.
- If you need frequent ferry access, choose a town with a port like Minori or Cetara over a mountain town like Scala.
Getting around and what to pack for the Amalfi Coast
The coast’s narrow, winding roads make driving stressful, but a car gives you access to towns like Tramonti and Scala that ferries skip entirely. If you’re staying in Conca dei Marini, the hotel shuttles cover the basics, and you can rent a boat for the day to reach the Emerald Grotto and hidden coves.
For capturing the coastline, I brought a compact drone that fits in my daypack. The DJI Mini 3 weighs under 249 grams, which means no registration is needed in most places, and its 4K HDR camera with vertical shooting mode is perfect for social media clips. The three-battery combo gives you about 114 minutes of total flight time, enough for a morning of shooting along the cliffs. I also packed the DJI Mini 4K as a backup for my husband Michael, who wanted something even simpler to fly. Its 3-axis gimbal keeps footage stable even in the moderate winds that kick up along the coast in the afternoon.
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For underwater shots and action video, the DJI Osmo Action 6 Bundle shoots 8K video and is waterproof to 20 meters without a housing. I used it while snorkeling near the Emerald Grotto, and the 360° stabilization handled the boat chop without any jello effect. The bundle includes 58 accessories, two extra batteries, and a 64GB card, which saved me from buying extras separately.
Fly your drone early in the morning, before 9 a.m., when the light is soft and the wind is calm. By 11 a.m., the afternoon breeze picks up and can make hovering difficult near the cliffs.
Your Amalfi Coast questions, answered honestly
Is the Amalfi Coast really that crowded?
Yes, in Positano and Amalfi town during July and August. The coast receives roughly five million tourists annually, and most of them concentrate in those two towns. The quieter towns I mentioned — Conca dei Marini, Minori, Cetara — see a fraction of that traffic.
If you visit in May, June, or September, you’ll find thinner crowds and better availability at restaurants and hotels. October is also pleasant, though some ferry services reduce their schedules.
Which town is the most overrated?
Positano is beautiful, but it’s also the most photographed and most crowded spot on the coast. The main beach, Spiaggia Grande, is packed with rented umbrellas and loungers, and the narrow streets get gridlocked with foot traffic. It’s worth a day trip, but I wouldn’t base my whole trip there.
Ravello is stunning for its gardens and views, but it’s perched high above the sea with no beach access. If swimming is a priority, skip it as a base.
Can I visit the Emerald Grotto without a tour?
Yes. The grotto is located near Conca dei Marini, and you can reach it by renting a small boat from the port or taking a local ferry. Tours from Amalfi town run frequently, but they’re often crowded. Going independently lets you arrive early before the tour groups show up around 10 a.m.
The cave’s water glows an emerald green due to sunlight filtering through an underwater opening. It’s best seen on a sunny day between 11 a.m. and 1 p.m.
Is the Amalfi Coast doable with young kids?
Yes, but choose your base carefully. Borgo Santandrea in Conca dei Marini is family-friendly with an oceanfront pool and a concierge that arranges kid-friendly boat trips. Hotel Eden Roc in Positano is also good for families. Avoid mountain towns like Scala and Tramonti if you’re traveling with a stroller, as the steep stairs and uneven paths are tough to navigate.
Ferries are the easiest way to move between towns with kids. They’re frequent, affordable, and save everyone from the winding bus rides.
What’s the best way to get between towns?
Ferries are the most scenic and least stressful option. The SITA bus is cheaper but crowded and prone to delays on the narrow coastal road. Driving is possible but stressful, especially in summer when traffic backs up between Positano and Amalfi. If you rent a car, book a hotel with parking, as street parking is nearly impossible.
For day trips, the hotel shuttles at Monastero Santa Rosa and Borgo Santandrea run to Amalfi multiple times daily, which covers most dining and shopping needs.
Why I’d pick Conca dei Marini on my next trip back
I spent years assuming the Amalfi Coast was a beautiful place I’d only ever experience in photos, because every story I heard involved fighting for a spot on the beach or waiting an hour for a table. Conca dei Marini proved me wrong. It gave me the same dramatic cliffs, the same turquoise water, the same incredible food, but with space to actually enjoy them. That’s a rare thing on a coast that sees five million visitors a year, and it’s exactly why I’ll go back. For more ideas on where to stay and what to skip, read my guide to the best Amalfi Coast towns to visit.
Sources and further reading
InsideHook. “Conca dei Marini: The Amalfi Coast’s Quiet Luxury Haven.” 🔗
Forbes. “Best Hotels On The Amalfi Coast 2025.” 🔗
Business Insider. “Amalfi Coast towns to stay in, according to a longtime local.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
A Family Trip to Italy’s Amalfi Coast — Practical tips for traveling with kids, including which beaches and restaurants work best for young children.
Rome to Amalfi vs. Cinque Terre: Italy’s Iconic Southbound Dilemma — A direct comparison of two famous coastal destinations to help you decide which one fits your travel style.
Cinque Terre vs. Amalfi Coast: Which Italian Hike Is Better? — If hiking is your priority, this breakdown of trails, difficulty, and scenery will help you choose.
Sorrento’s Pompeii Ruins and Amalfi Coast Drive — How to combine a visit to Pompeii with a scenic drive along the coast, including parking tips and timing advice.