I spent a whole afternoon in Amalfi Town eating lemon pasta at Sensi instead of lying on a beach. I don’t regret it. The Amalfi Coast has some of the best food in Italy, and sometimes the right meal is worth more than an entire day in the sun.
Daily food costs for two people on the Amalfi Coast range from $60 to $100.
That’s not a small number for a single day of eating. But when the food is this good, it’s money well spent. Let me walk you through the meals that made me glad I skipped the beach towel.
The Restaurants That Demand a Reservation
Some places on the coast require planning weeks ahead. La Sponda in Positano is one of them. It books up fast from June through September, so you need to reserve well in advance. The same goes for La Caravella dal 1959 in Amalfi Town, a Michelin-starred spot that’s been around for decades.
My husband and I learned this the hard way on our first trip. We showed up in July thinking we could walk in anywhere. We ended up eating mediocre pizza standing up. Now I book these restaurants before I book my hotel.
La Sponda and La Caravella dal 1959 require advance booking during peak season. Don’t assume you’ll get a table same-day.
La Caravella serves refined takes on local classics. The tasting menu changes with the season, but the focus stays on seafood and Amalfi lemons. It’s the kind of meal you remember for years.
The Dishes That Define the Coast
You can’t talk about Amalfi food without mentioning scialatielli ai frutti di mare. It’s a thick, fresh pasta shaped like short ribbons, tossed with mixed seafood. Every town has its own version, but the best ones taste like the sea just arrived on your plate.
Then there’s delizia al limone, a sponge cake soaked in lemon syrup and filled with lemon cream. It’s sweet, tart, and absurdly good after a long day of walking. The Amalfi lemons that go into it are the same ones that make the region’s limoncello famous — they’re bigger, less acidic, and more fragrant than any lemon I’ve bought at home.
In Amalfi Town, Sensi serves a lemon pasta that’s simple and perfect. It’s a small spot on a side street, easy to miss. The pasta comes with a light sauce made from local lemons, butter, and a dusting of Parmigiano. That’s it. It doesn’t need anything else.
The Amalfi Coast’s signature dishes also include Neapolitan pizza margherita and sfogliatella, a flaky shell-shaped pastry filled with ricotta. You’ll find both in bakeries and casual restaurants throughout the region.
Where to Find Authentic Local Food
The main towns get all the attention, but some of the best meals happen in quieter spots. Praiano sits between Positano and Amalfi, and it’s where locals go to eat. The family-run trattorias here serve food that hasn’t been adjusted for tourists.
One place worth seeking out is Hotel Onda Verde in Praiano. It’s a hotel, yes, but the restaurant serves Mediterranean cuisine made from locally sourced ingredients. The terrace overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea, and the menu changes based on what’s fresh that day. It’s the kind of meal where you order the catch of the day and trust the kitchen.
If you’re willing to drive or take a bus a bit further, the smaller towns along the coast — Maiori and Minori — have beach clubs and restaurants with noticeably lower prices. A beach club day there runs about $25–$40, compared to $40–$80 in Positano or Amalfi. That leaves more budget for dinner.
For the best balance of beach and food, base yourself in a smaller town like Praiano or Minori. You get lower prices, fewer crowds, and easy access to the main towns by ferry or bus.
How to Balance Beach and Food Without Regret
You don’t have to choose between the beach and great food every single day. But you do need to plan which meals matter most. Here’s what worked for my family.
Book your two or three most important dinners before you leave home. That includes La Sponda, La Caravella, and any place with a Michelin star or a long wait list. Once those are locked in, everything else can be flexible.
Use lunch for the casual stuff — a slice of pizza on a bench overlooking the water, a plate of fried anchovies at a beachfront bar. Lunch doesn’t need a reservation, and it’s often the meal that feels most like real Italian life.
And if you’re traveling with kids, know that the fancier restaurants usually welcome children but may not have a kids’ menu. My kids ate their weight in lemon pasta at Sensi and were happy. But we also grabbed quick meals from bakeries on beach days — sfogliatella and a piece of fruit, eaten with sandy hands.
The Amalfi Coast is famous for its views, its cliffs, and its water. But the food is what brings people back. A beach is a beach. A meal at La Caravella or a plate of lemon pasta at Sensi — that’s a memory that sticks.
So skip the beach one afternoon. Sit down at a table with a view of the sea, order something you’ve never heard of, and take your time. That’s the real Amalfi Coast.
Making the Choice That Matters
The Amalfi Coast charges premium prices for everything — rooms, cocktails, sunbeds, and basic meals. You’re already paying a lot to be there. Spending part of your budget on a genuinely great meal isn’t indulgence; it’s the whole point. For more on planning your trip around what actually matters, check out my guide on whether to DIY or book a tour on the Amalfi Coast.
Sources and further reading
Fattahgraphy. “Capri and the Amalfi Coast: What’s Worth It and What to Skip.” 2026. 🔗
Oyster. “What Not to Do in the Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
Turban Adventures. “Best Alternatives to the Amalfi Coast Without Crowds, Italy Tour Guide.” 🔗
World Traveler Guide. “16 Amalfi Coast Towns Worth Visiting and Which Ones to Skip.” Updated May 2025. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Positano Has a Second Beach (and Almost Nobody Walks the Extra Ten Minutes) — A quieter, cheaper beach option that pairs perfectly with a big lunch.
The Lemon Groves Above Minori Are Open to Anyone Willing to Climb — Where those Amalfi lemons actually come from, and how to visit.
Italy’s Quiet Seasons: Your Best Visit Awaits — Why shoulder season means better tables and emptier beaches.