The Path of the Gods covers 3.7 miles (6 km) from Bomerano to Nocelle, and at roughly 2.5 hours it’s one of the most doable big-view hikes on the Amalfi Coast.
I stepped off the SITA bus at Bomerano just after 8am. The air was still cool, and the only sound came from a dog stretching on the cobbles of Piazza Paolo Capasso. That piazza, small and unassuming, is the gateway to one of Italy’s most famous footpaths. The trail runs roughly 3.7 miles from Bomerano to Nocelle, and most people finish there before dropping down toward Positano. But I had something else in mind.
This hike rewards you with views that feel like a cheat code — but the descent into Praiano is the real gut check. Plan your starting point based on whether you want to end at a beach or a bus stop.
Solo hikers who want quiet mornings
Couples looking for a half-day adventure
Active travelers who prefer stairs over traffic
If you’re like me and you value a quiet start, Bomerano is the smarter trailhead. It sits in the hills above the coast, away from the coastal road chaos. From the piazza, it’s about 0.5 miles along Via Pennino before you reach the official start of the Sentiero degli Dei. That first stretch passes through small homesteads and pastureland, and the Mediterranean appears slowly, like a reveal you didn’t earn yet.
On the Trail
Bomerano to Nocelle: What the Path of the Gods Actually Feels Like
The trail is narrower than I expected, and the edge drops off in ways that make you pay attention.
The path follows the mountain’s contour with the sea on your left and the rock face on your right. The terrain is mostly gravel and uneven stone staircases, and it rises and falls gently at first. In total, you gain about 721 feet (218 meters) over the full route, according to detailed trail guides. That sounds manageable until you hit the first long staircase. The steps are cut from stone worn smooth by decades of feet, and they force you to watch every foot placement.
Red and white markers from the Alpine Italian Club (CAI) appear at every junction. I never once worried about losing the trail. The markers are frequent and clear, and the path itself is well-worn. About 800 meters in, you reach a fork. Stay left to walk closest to the sea. That’s the route that delivers the postcard views — the ones where the cliff drops straight to the water and the coastline stretches all the way to Positano.
There’s no shade on this trail. None. I made the mistake of stopping at a lookout for fifteen minutes without my hat on, and the sun burned my shoulders through my shirt. Start before 10am to beat both the heat and the crowds. By 11am, I passed at least three groups of ten or more hikers coming the other way, and the narrow sections required a careful shuffle to let them pass.
Bring at least one liter of water per person and carry a sun-protective hat. I used a lightweight travel umbrella as a sun shield during one exposed stretch, and it made a real difference.
Scattered along the trail you’ll find numbered tiles embedded in the rock. If you get into trouble — twisted ankle, dehydration, anything serious — note the number and call 118. Emergency services can locate you from that tile number even if your phone signal drops, and cell service does cut out in several sections.
The Descent
How the Trail Drops Into Praiano Without Warning
Most hikers end in Nocelle and take the bus down to Positano. I took the stairs to Praiano instead, and the experience was completely different.
After about 2.5 hours, the trail delivers you to Nocelle, a tiny village perched above the coast. There’s a kiosk selling lemon slushes, and the bus stop for Positano is right there. The bus runs roughly hourly with no fixed schedule, and taxis charge around €30 for the ride down. Most people take one of those options. They smile, buy a slush, and ride away.
Praiano, though, sits on the opposite side of the ridge. To reach it from Nocelle, you backtrack slightly toward the Colle Serra pass and then take the lower path that heads west. That’s where the real work begins. Over 1,000 stairs drop from Colle Serra toward the sea, and the trail loses about 1,804 feet (550 meters) in elevation over a short distance. The stairs are narrow, uneven in places, and the steps themselves vary in height in ways that threw off my rhythm repeatedly.
This descent is harder than the main trail. The stairs continue for what feels like forever, and by the time you reach the bottom, your knees will remind you of every single one. People with knee issues should absolutely take the bus from Nocelle instead.
The trail from Colle Serra to Praiano doesn’t have the same dramatic cliffside exposure as the main path. It runs through terraced hillsides with dry stone walls, lemon groves, and the occasional farmhouse. The views are still good — the sea appears between gaps in the vegetation — but the real reward is arriving in Praiano itself. You emerge from a narrow stairwell between two houses onto a quiet coastal road, and suddenly you’re in a town that feels like it has nothing to prove.
Praiano lacks the polish of Positano. Its beaches are smaller, its shops more practical, and its restaurants cater more to locals than tourists. I found a small beach called Marina di Praia at the bottom of a staircase off the main road, and I ate lunch at a table that sat literally two feet from the water. The pasta with zucchini and shrimp cost €14. In Positano, the same dish would run you at least €22.
Bomerano vs. Praiano: Which Trailhead Should You Start From?
The answer depends on where you’re staying and how much uphill walking you’re willing to accept before the views start.
| Starting Point | Elevation Gain | Difficulty | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bomerano | 721 ft (218 m) | Moderate | First-time hikers, earlier start, better views sooner |
| Praiano | 1,804 ft (550 m) | Hard | Those staying in Praiano, experienced hikers, quieter route |
Bomerano is the easier and more popular choice. The trail from Bomerano to Nocelle is mostly downhill or level, and the big views open up within the first mile. Getting there requires either a SITA bus from Amalfi or a private car — a taxi from Positano to Bomerano runs around €120. The bus is cheaper but requires careful timing. Buy your ticket before boarding because shops near the stops have irregular hours.
Praiano as a starting point is less common but smarter if you’re staying in that town. You can walk straight from your accommodation onto the trail without any bus or taxi. The catch is the elevation gain: from Praiano you climb over 1,000 stairs through a path used by local farmers before connecting with the main trail at Colle Serra. That climb is relentless, and it takes most hikers 45 minutes to an hour just to reach the ridge.
If you want to hike the full trail and return to your car or accommodation, starting and ending in Praiano by adding the Colle Serra loop makes more sense logistically. If you want the classic experience with less physical strain, start in Bomerano and end in Nocelle.
The TravelMar shuttle runs from Amalfi to Praiano from April through October. It costs around €16 and leaves at roughly 9:30am and 11am. You can check current schedules at travelmar.it. That shuttle makes Praiano an even more practical base for the hike.
- Start from Bomerano for the easiest route and best views — take the SITA bus or arrange a taxi.
- Descending into Praiano adds 1,000+ stairs — skip it if you have knee problems or limited time.
- Start before 10am year-round, carry sun protection, and bring at least one liter of water per person.
Before You Walk the Path of the Gods
How hard is this hike really?
Moderate for most active people. The main trail from Bomerano to Nocelle feels manageable. The stairs at either end — entering from Praiano or descending to Positano — push it into hard territory. I’d rate the main trail a 4 out of 10 and the full loop with descents a 7 out of 10.
Your biggest challenges are the sun (zero shade), the uneven stone steps, and the mental focus required near the drops. If you’re comfortable with exposure, you’ll be fine.
What’s the best time of year to do this hike?
Spring (April to June) and autumn (September to October) are ideal. Summer is too hot for the exposed trail — the sun bakes the limestone and there’s no escape. I hiked in mid-May and the temperature was perfect at 8am but hot by noon.
Winter can work on clear days, but the trail can be muddy and the bus schedules are reduced. Check weather conditions before committing.
Is the Path of the Gods overrated or worth the hype?
It deserves the reputation, but parts of it are overhyped. The section between Bomerano and Colle Serra is genuinely spectacular. The last stretch into Nocelle is less dramatic and runs behind houses and through scrub. The descent to Praiano is physically brutal for a payoff that’s more about the town than the trail.
If you hike only the Bomerano-to-Colle-Serra section and then return, you’ve seen the best of it without the anticlimax. That’s roughly 90 minutes round trip.
What should I pack besides water and sun protection?
Good hiking shoes with ankle support and deep tread. The limestone gravel slides underfoot, and the steps are uneven. I also carried a compact drone and a small travel tripod from a Fly More Combo kit that fit in my daypack — the aerial footage from the Colle Serra overlook is worth the weight.
Bring a packed lunch. The kiosk in Nocelle is fine for a slush but not for a meal. Agerola, the town above Bomerano, is famous for its fior di latte cheese, and a local salumeria will make you a sandwich that beats anything on the trail.
How do I get back to my starting point after the hike?
If you started in Bomerano and ended in Nocelle, you have three options: wait for the bus (roughly hourly, no set timetable, often standing room only), take a taxi (about €30 to Positano, then another taxi or bus to Bomerano), or walk the 1,500 steps down to Positano and catch a bus from there.
If you ended in Praiano, buses run east toward Amalfi and west toward Positano. The SITA 5120 line serves Praiano. Schedules are posted at the stop but are not always reliable — I waited 40 minutes for a bus that never came and had to share a taxi with two German hikers.
Note: The numbered emergency tile system is real and functional. I checked. The tiles are spaced roughly every 200 meters on the most exposed sections. If you need help, call 118 and read the number aloud. Paramedics can reach most points on the trail on foot within 30 minutes.
A Trail That Asks You to Choose Your Own Ending
The Path of the Gods is not a single hike. It’s a network of choices disguised as a single trail. You choose your starting point, your midpoint, and your descent. Each combination gives you a different version of the same coastline. The version I took — Bomerano to Colle Serra to Praiano — gave me quiet beaches and a sore knee. The version most people take — Bomerano to Nocelle to Positano — gives them lemon slushes and a bus ride through traffic. Both are valid. The trail doesn’t judge. It just sits there, offering the same views no matter which way you approach them. I’ve already started planning the return trip with Michael, Lily, and Ethan — if you’re curious how we handled the Amalfi Coast as a family, you can read more in our full Amalfi Coast family guide.
Sources and further reading
Working Joe Travel. “Path of the Gods Amalfi Coast Italy.” 2024. 🔗
Trek Waves. “Path of the Gods Hike: Amalfi Coast’s Most Scenic Trail.” 2024. 🔗
Globetrotter Girls. “Path of the Gods Hike: Praiano to Positano.” 2024. 🔗
Amalfi Travel. “Amalfi Coast Trekking Guide.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
See Italy’s Amalfi Coast — Hike the Path of the Gods — A detailed route guide with photo stops and timing suggestions for the full trail.
An Italian Road Trip from Milan to the Amalfi Coast — How to plan the drive south, including parking tips for trailhead access.
Nocelle Sits Above the Coast Like a Village Time Forgot — What to do in Nocelle after the hike, including where to eat and how to get out.