I was standing on the Terrace of Infinity at Villa Cimbrone, looking out over the Mediterranean, and I could not understand why almost no one else was there. Below me, the coastline stretched toward Positano in a soft haze. Roman-style statues lined the balcony, their stone faces turned toward the same view I was staring at. It felt like a secret, even though it is one of the most famous viewpoints on the Amalfi Coast.
Richard Wagner visited Villa Rufolo in 1880 and drew inspiration for Parsifal, calling the garden “the magic garden of Klingsor.”
Ravello sits high above the Amalfi Coast, roughly 365 meters up, and it has two famous villa gardens. Villa Rufolo gets the crowds, the festival crowds, and the Wagner pilgrims. Villa Cimbrone sits quieter, with fewer visitors and a different kind of magic. This article compares the two so you can decide which one fits your day — or whether you can do both.
If you only have time for one, Villa Cimbrone wins for peace and views. But Villa Rufolo is worth the €7 ticket if you want history and the Wagner story. Ideally, visit both on the same day — they are a ten-minute walk apart.
Solo travelers
Couples
Photography lovers
Gardens & Villas
Villa Rufolo: The one with the backstory
Villa Rufolo is the garden most people know, even if they have never been to Ravello.
Built in the 13th century by the Rufolo family, the villa is a mix of Norman, Arab, Sicilian, and Byzantine architecture. The cloister alone is worth the trip — pointed arches, carved stone, and a quiet courtyard that feels more like a monastery than a noble residence. Boccaccio mentioned the Rufolo family in the Decameron, which gives the place a literary pedigree that most Amalfi Coast villas cannot claim.
Richard Wagner visited in 1880 and found the garden so inspiring that he used it as the setting for the magic garden in his opera Parsifal. You can still see the tower — the 30-meter Torre Maggiore — that offers panoramic views of the coast. It also houses a Vertical Museum with art exhibits that change each season.
The Ravello Festival runs each summer, and the stage is set against the sea. It is a spectacular setting, but the garden gets crowded during concert evenings. If you want a quiet visit, go early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Spring is the best season for flowers — the gardens are in full bloom, and the wisteria hangs thick over the pergolas.
Arrive at Villa Rufolo by 9:00 AM on a weekday in spring. You will have the cloister and the tower almost to yourself, and the light is soft for photography.
Villa Cimbrone: The one with the terrace
Villa Cimbrone gets fewer visitors than Villa Rufolo, but its Terrace of Infinity is one of the most photographed spots on the Amalfi Coast.
The terrace features Roman-style statues lining a balcony that overlooks the Mediterranean. There is no railing — just a sheer drop to the sea, with the coastline curving away on both sides. It is the kind of view that makes you stop talking and just stare. The garden behind the terrace is planted with English-style landscaping, which feels unusual for Italy but works perfectly against the backdrop of the sea and sky.
Villa Cimbrone also operates as a luxury hotel, which means parts of the property are private. The gardens and the terrace are open to the public, but you cannot access the hotel rooms or the private terraces. The villa was restored in the 19th century by Scottish lord Francis Neville Reid, who also oversaw the restoration of Villa Rufolo. Both villas are prime examples of English landscaping in Southern Europe.
The view from the Terrace of Infinity is wider and more dramatic than the view from Villa Rufolo’s tower. You can see the entire coastline from Salerno to Positano, and on clear days, the island of Capri is visible in the distance. The terrace is also less crowded, partly because Villa Cimbrone is slightly farther from the main square and partly because the hotel guests have their own private areas, which thins out the public foot traffic.
Villa Cimbrone does not have a festival or a concert series. It is a quiet property, and that is its strength. The gardens are open year-round, but the best time to visit is late afternoon, when the light hits the terrace and the statues cast long shadows.
I visited on a Tuesday in May, and I shared the terrace with maybe six other people. At Villa Rufolo, twenty minutes later, I was weaving through a group of tourists taking selfies by the tower. The difference in crowd size is noticeable, even in the shoulder season.
Villa Rufolo vs Villa Cimbrone: Which one should you visit?
Both villas are a ten-minute walk from Ravello’s main square, but they offer very different experiences.
| Feature | Villa Rufolo | Villa Cimbrone |
|---|---|---|
| Ticket price | €7 | Higher (check official site) |
| Crowds | Busy, especially in summer | Quiet, even in peak season |
| Best feature | Torre Maggiore views + cloister | Terrace of Infinity |
| Architecture | Arab-Norman-Byzantine mix | English landscaping + Roman statues |
| Events | Ravello Festival (summer concerts) | None (private hotel) |
| Best time to visit | Early morning, spring | Late afternoon, spring or autumn |
| Kid-friendly | Yes, but watch toddlers near tower | Yes, but watch kids near terrace edge |
If you want history and architecture, Villa Rufolo is the better choice. The cloister, the tower, and the Wagner connection give it a depth that Villa Cimbrone cannot match. If you want views and peace, Villa Cimbrone wins. The Terrace of Infinity is one of the most beautiful viewpoints on the coast, and you will likely have it to yourself for at least a few minutes.
In an ideal world, visit both. Start at Villa Cimbrone in the late afternoon for the light, then walk to Villa Rufolo for the cloister and tower before it closes. The walk between them is about ten minutes through Ravello’s narrow streets, past the cathedral and its medieval cloister.
- Visit Villa Cimbrone in the late afternoon for the best light on the Terrace of Infinity.
- Visit Villa Rufolo early in the morning to avoid crowds and see the cloister in peace.
- Both are walkable from Ravello’s main square — plan at least 90 minutes for each.
Before you visit Ravello’s gardens
Which garden is better for photography?
Villa Cimbrone’s Terrace of Infinity is the better photo spot, especially in late afternoon light. Villa Rufolo’s tower offers wider views but the terrace at Cimbrone is more dramatic.
Can I visit both gardens in one day?
Yes, easily. They are a ten-minute walk apart. Start at Villa Cimbrone in the late afternoon, then walk to Villa Rufolo for the tower before sunset. Each needs about 60–90 minutes.
Is Villa Rufolo worth the €7 ticket?
Yes, for the cloister and the tower alone. But the garden itself is small and gets crowded. The €7 ticket is reasonable for the history and the views.
Is Villa Cimbrone disappointing compared to Villa Rufolo?
Some visitors find Villa Cimbrone too simple — it is basically a terrace and a garden, with no museum or tower. If you want a full cultural experience, Villa Rufolo is more satisfying. If you want a quiet spot to stare at the sea, Cimbrone is better.
Are the gardens suitable for children?
Both are fine for kids, but watch toddlers near the tower at Villa Rufolo and near the terrace edge at Villa Cimbrone. The paths are well-maintained, and there is plenty of space to run in the gardens.
Why the quieter garden stayed with me
I went to Ravello expecting to be wowed by Villa Rufolo — the Wagner connection, the famous tower, the festival. And I was. But the garden that stayed with me was Villa Cimbrone. Not because it was better, but because it gave me a version of the Amalfi Coast that I had not experienced before: one without a crowd, without a queue, without a soundtrack of selfie sticks clicking. The Terrace of Infinity felt like a reward for walking a little farther up the hill. For that reason alone, I would go back. For more inspiration on planning your trip to the Amalfi Coast, read my guide to the cliffside villages and turquoise waters.
Sources and further reading
Sorrento Review. “Gardens of the Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
Bella’s Bold Adventures. “Gardens in the Sky: The Breathtaking Villas of Ravello.” 🔗
Italy Tripper. “Villa Rufolo, Ravello – Gardens and Wagner Festival.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
From Matera to the Amalfi Coast: An Italian Soulful Journey — A road trip that connects two of Italy’s most dramatic landscapes, with tips on driving the coastal roads.
Naples to Lecce via Amalfi: A 10-Day November Trip with Public Transit — A practical itinerary for visiting the Amalfi Coast by bus and ferry, including Ravello.
Undiscovered Italy: Beyond the Usual Tourist Path — More quiet corners of Italy that most visitors miss, with tips for avoiding crowds.
Naples Solo Holiday: Authentic Flavors and Sun-Drenched Views — A solo trip to Naples with side trips to the Amalfi Coast, including solo-friendly tips for Ravello.