My recent visit to Italy has given me a new perspective on the Amalfi Coast. For years, the names Positano and Ravello have dominated travel guides, drawing in crowds with their celebrity connections and luxurious hotels. But I discovered a different side, a quieter, more accessible stretch of coastline that opens up with the arrival of a small but significant airport. This part of Italy is far more than just a backdrop for movie stars; it’s a place where you can truly connect with the landscape and its culture, without the overwhelming throngs of tourists.
Discovering a New Gateway
The game-changer for exploring this region is the newly reopened Salerno Costa d’Amalfi airport. It’s a small airport, and it’s easy to miss the baggage claim if you’re not paying attention. But its opening in July 2024, with new routes from Gatwick, Stansted, and eventually British Airways, makes reaching the eastern Amalfi Coast so much easier. Before, most visitors flew into Naples. Getting to the less-famous towns from there could be a real challenge, especially navigating the winding, blind-cornered coastal roads with local buses that seemed to have a knack for crossing into oncoming traffic. This new airport bypasses all that hassle, making the journey feel much simpler.
It’s not just about convenience; it’s about affordability too. Some return flights are surprisingly cheap, even with checked baggage. I found round trips for around £80, which is fantastic news for anyone wanting to explore this beautiful part of Italy without breaking the bank. The ease of access means you can focus more on the experience itself, rather than the stress of getting there. It’s made the often-overlooked eastern stretch of the Solfara coastline much more accessible, offering a refreshing alternative to the well-trodden paths further west.
Boating Along the Coastline
Once you arrive in Salerno, the best way to explore the eastern coastline is by boat. The airport coach will take you to the city centre in about half an hour. From there, it’s a short walk down to the ferry port. Stepping onto one of the Travelmar ferries feels like entering a different world compared to the busy roads. Even when you pass the industrial container port on your right, don’t be put off. Within minutes, the view transforms. You’re surrounded by the towering Lattari Mountains and the clear blue Tyrrhenian Sea. It’s a moment of pure serenity, like diving into cool water on a hot day. The reality of the beauty surrounding you is even better than you imagined.
The ferry ride itself is a delightful experience. You’ll glide past rugged shorelines, little fishing villages, and dramatic cliff faces. It’s a peaceful way to soak in the scenery, and it offers a constant, breathtaking panorama of the coast. The gentle rocking of the boat and the sea breeze are incredibly relaxing, providing a perfect transition into the coastal towns you’re about to visit.
Exploring Coastal Towns
Vietri sul Mare
Our first stop after leaving Salerno was Vietri sul Mare, a town renowned for its ceramics. The vibrant colours and intricate designs you see everywhere are a testament to its artistic heritage. Wandering through the narrow streets, you’ll find workshops and shops overflowing with beautifully crafted tiles, pottery, and decorative items. It’s a great place to pick up a unique souvenir or simply admire the local craftsmanship. The town itself has a lovely atmosphere, with colourful buildings cascading down towards the sea.
Cetara’s Anchovies
Just a short ferry ride further, about 15 minutes from Salerno, is the charming fishing village of Cetara. This town holds a special place in Italian culinary history, famous for its anchovies. The scent of the sea is strong here, and you’ll see fishing boats bobbing in the harbour. If you’re a food lover, Cetara is a must-visit. The local restaurants take pride in their anchovy dishes, prepared in ways that enhance their flavour without being overpowering. I enjoyed a meal at La Dispensa di Armatore, right by the sea wall. Their anchovies were a revelation, softened with good olive oil and a touch of lemon. It was simple yet incredibly flavourful. Even though the walk back to the village from my hotel was a bit hairy because there were no pavements, it was well worth it for the culinary experience.
Maiori and Minori
Continuing along the coast, you’ll reach Maiori and then its smaller neighbour, Minori. These towns offer a slightly different feel, with a more relaxed pace. Here, the mountains drop dramatically into the sea, just as they do in the more famous western towns. The key difference is the lack of crowds. You can wander the streets, enjoy a gelato, and admire the views without feeling overwhelmed. It feels like you have more space to yourself. These towns also serve as excellent bases for exploring further up into the hills.
Tranquility in Villa Lara
While the western resort towns are known for celebrity sightings, I found a different kind of star quality in Villa Lara, located at the edge of Amalfi town. It’s a neat and tidy B&B offering quiet seclusion. From its vantage point, you get lovely views over the valley road. What struck me most was the peace and quiet. The only sounds were the calls of swallows nesting on the cliffs opposite. It was a tranquil escape from the energy of Amalfi itself. Finding such serenity, even close to a popular spot, felt like a true luxury.
During my stay, my host at Villa Lara, Nello Rispoli, told me about his childhood village, Pontone. To reach it, you have to climb 900 steps from Amalfi, a daily commute for him when he was young. The climb is definitely a workout, but the reward is immense. Pontone is a tiny village clinging to the hillside, offering incredible views. At the Blu Bar in Pontone’s small piazza, I was welcomed with refreshing lemon water. Sitting there, watching the swallows dart under an ancient archway, I felt a deep sense of calm wash over me. Nello’s friend Raffaele Mansi at the bar made me feel so welcome – it’s this local hospitality that makes places like this special.
The Climb to Santuario di Maria Santissima Avvocata
For my final day, I decided to seek out even higher ground. I took a ferry to Maiori and then set my sights on the Santuario di Maria Santissima Avvocata, a church perched high above the town. The church honours a local hermit and promises spectacular views from its terrace. The hike up is challenging. After a steady start on hundreds of steps, and a pleasant section through wildflowers, the path becomes steep and demanding. It makes you wonder about the pilgrims who made this ascent centuries ago.
The journey itself was invigorating, a true test of endurance. The air grew thinner, and the landscape became more rugged. When I finally reached the terrace, exhausted but exhilarated, the views were indeed sensational. It was a moment of profound connection with the landscape. As I took it all in, a group of locals arrived, equipped with a drone to capture the beauty of the sanctuary. They explained their mission: to help promote this stunning part of the coast, which they believe deserves more recognition. Their passion for their region was inspiring, reinforcing my feeling that this area richly deserves to be explored and appreciated.
A Family Memory
On my return ferry from a day exploring the coast, Michael and the kids were waiting for me by the harbour. Lily, my seven-year-old, was bursting to tell me about the colourful ceramic tiles she’d seen, and Ethan, my four-year-old, was proudly clutching a small painted shell he’d found on the beach. Seeing their excitement as they recounted their own adventures that day, even in the bustling port area, brought such a warmth to my heart. It reminded me that even simple moments, like collecting shells or marveling at pottery, become precious memories when shared. Michael smiled, shaking his head fondly, as Lily launched into an animated explanation of how the boats worked, her hands flying. It was a perfect end to a day of discovery, a reminder of why we travel together.
Planning Your Visit in 2026
When you plan your trip for 2026, consider flying into Salerno. It opens up a whole new way to experience Italy’s stunning Amalfi Coast. You can find affordable flights from the UK, making it an accessible destination. Once you’re there, embrace the local transport, especially the ferries. They offer incredible views and a peaceful way to travel between towns.
For accommodation, look beyond the most famous names. Towns like Cetara, Maiori, and Minori offer charming places to stay at more reasonable prices. You can still find beautiful hotels with sea views that won’t cost a fortune. Don’t be afraid to venture slightly off the beaten path. Sometimes the most rewarding experiences are found in the quieter corners.
What are the best towns on the eastern coast?
Towns like Cetara, Maiori, and Minori offer a more relaxed and authentic experience compared to their more famous western counterparts. They provide beautiful scenery without the huge crowds.
How can I get around the coast?
The ferries are the most scenic and efficient way to travel between coastal towns. They offer stunning views and are a relaxing mode of transport.
Are there good places to stay near Amalfi?
Yes, places like Villa Lara offer quiet stays with beautiful views, providing a peaceful escape close to the main attractions. Looking for B&Bs slightly outside the main centres can yield lovely, tranquil options.
What are some unique experiences to try?
Try the local cuisine, especially the anchovies in Cetara. Consider hiking up to villages like Pontone for incredible views and a sense of accomplishment. Exploring the less-visited parts of the coast offers a deeper connection with the region.
This part of Italy offers a beautiful blend of stunning scenery, delicious food, and rich culture. By choosing the right airport and embracing local transport, you can enjoy an unforgettable trip without the usual overwhelm. I encourage you to explore this less-discovered stretch of the Amalfi Coast for yourself.