The first time I ordered Scialatielli ai Frutti di Mare in Atrani, the waiter didn’t ask how I wanted my pasta cooked. He just nodded, like he knew I was about to learn something. The noodles arrived thick and uneven, nothing like the uniform shapes I grew up with. They held onto the sauce — mussels, clams, prawns, squid in white wine and cherry tomatoes — the way only fresh, handmade pasta can. That meal changed how I thought about coastal Italian food. It wasn’t just good because of the view. It was good because the kitchen here treats ingredients with a kind of respect that’s hard to find elsewhere.
Over the course of several trips, with my family and on my own, I worked through more menus than I’m willing to admit. Some dishes surprised me. A few felt overhyped. But these ten — from pasta to seafood to dessert — are the ones I’d tell any traveler to prioritize along the Amalfi Coast.
Four pastas that tell the coast’s story
Scialatielli is the pasta you’ll remember longest. It was invented in Amalfi by chef Cosentino, and unlike spaghetti or tagliatelle, it’s cut by hand into short, thick strips that feel almost rustic. The dough uses fewer eggs than other fresh pastas, which gives it a firmer bite. Restaurants like L’Abside in Amalfi and Le Palme in Atrani serve it Scialatielli allo scoglio — with a seafood sauce loaded with mussels, clams, prawns, and squid in cherry tomatoes and white wine. Pair it with a glass of Fiano di Avellino if you can.
Spaghetti alla Nerano comes from a single restaurant: Ristorante Maria Grazia in Nerano. The dish is deceptively simple — spaghetti with fried zucchini and local cheese — but the balance of salty, creamy, and vegetal is something you won’t find replicated well anywhere else. I’ve tried versions in other towns and they don’t come close.
Spaghetti alle Vongole tastes better the farther south you go, and on the Amalfi Coast it’s a benchmark dish. Il Leone Rosso in Sorrento and Enjoy Restaurant both do versions worth seeking out. The clams should be small, the garlic light, and the olive oil good enough to drink.
Pasta al Limone is where the coast’s famous Sfusato Amalfitano lemons take center stage. The lemons are soaked overnight, then cooked with butter, cream, and cheese to create a sauce that’s rich without being heavy. You’ll find it on menus across the coast, but the version at Fuoro in Amalfi is a solid place to start.
Those four pastas alone are reason enough to spend a week eating along this coast. But the sea offers more than just sauce ingredients.
The fishing towns along the coastline have their own specialties that deserve just as much attention.
Squid, anchovies, and the catch of the day
Totani e Patate alla Praianese is the kind of dish that tells you everything about where you’re eating. It comes from Praiano, a town that was built around fishing, not tourism. Squid rings and tentacles are slow-cooked with potatoes, garlic, chili, and white wine until they’re tender. La Cala delle Lampare in Praiano serves a version worth the trip alone. Eat it with crusty bread and a glass of Falanghina.
Alici di Cetara is a whole category of its own. The town of Cetara has been curing anchovies for generations — salted and pressed after the spring catch, then aged in chestnut barrels. The liquid that seeps out is bottled as colatura di alici, a fish sauce that gets drizzled over spaghetti with garlic, chili, and parsley. Alici Come Prima di Romano Olimpia in Cetara is the place to try it. If you’re planning a meal in Cetara, you’ll want to book the corner table at the harbor trattoria weeks in advance.
The mozzarella stop you should build into your drive
Mozzarella di Bufala has been DOC-protected since 1993, and the difference between the real thing and what you find in supermarkets back home is enormous. The water buffalo milk gives it a soft, elastic texture and a sweetness that pairs perfectly with local tomatoes and basil in a classic Insalata Caprese. Inn Bufalito in Sorrento is a reliable spot. But for the full experience, head up to Agerola in the Lattari Mountains, where farmhouses offer tastings with panoramic views of the coast. The mountain air up there cools the coast down just enough to matter after a hot day of driving.
Three desserts that use lemons better than anywhere else
Delizia al Limone is the dessert you’ll see in every pastry shop window, and for good reason. It’s a single-serving sphere of sponge cake soaked in Limoncello syrup, filled with lemon custard, and topped with lemon glaze. Pasticceria Sal De Riso in Minori is widely considered the best place to try it. Pair it with a shot of ice-cold Limoncello for the full experience.
Sfogliatella Santa Rosa has a history that goes back to the nuns at the Santa Rosa Monastery in Conca dei Marini. The pastry is layered into a shell shape, filled with semolina, ricotta, and lemon liqueur cream, and topped with a single black cherry. Bar Santa Rosa in Conca dei Marini still makes it the traditional way. It’s worth the detour.
Torta Caprese comes from Capri and is naturally gluten-free — made with almonds and chocolate, no flour. It’s dense, fudgy, and often served with a dusting of powdered sugar and orange zest. Most restaurants on Capri have it on the menu, and it pairs well with a glass of Limoncello or a coffee.
Eating your way along the coast
What I learned from eating through the Amalfi Coast is that the best meals aren’t always at the restaurants with the best views. They’re in the towns that specialize in one thing — Cetara and its anchovies, Nerano and its zucchini pasta, Minori and its lemon dessert — and do it better than anyone else. If you’re planning a trip and wondering how this coastline compares to others in Italy, I wrote about how Cinque Terre stacks up against the Amalfi Coast that might help you decide.
Sources and further reading
Explored by Marta. “Foods on the Amalfi Coast Italy.” 🔗
Villa Fiorentino. “The Top 10 Dishes of the Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
The Tour Guy. “Foods to Try in the Amalfi Coast & Where to Eat Them.” 🔗
Travel Amalfi Coast. “10 Typical Dishes to Eat on the Amalfi Coast and Where to Do It.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
San Lazzaro’s Ruins Sit Forgotten Just Off the Main Coastal Road — A quiet stop most drivers miss, worth knowing about if you’re road-tripping the coast.
Furore’s Fjord Bridge Hides a Second, Smaller View Most People Miss — A quick detour that pairs well with a seafood lunch in the area.
Why Nocelle’s Mule Track Feels More Honest Than the Marked Trails — If you want to walk off all that pasta, this is the path to take.
Italy’s Hidden Gems: 20 Beautiful Small Towns — More small-town recommendations beyond the Amalfi Coast.