The first bus from Amalfi pulls into Bomerano just after seven, and the air still smells like damp stone and wild fennel. I sat on a low wall near the Chiesa di San Matteo Apostolo, watching a shopkeeper sweep his doorstep, and thought: this is the only way to do the Path of the Gods. The trail stretches about 6.5 kilometres from Bomerano to Nocelle, with a journey time of roughly two and a half hours one way — and almost nobody is on it at that hour.
The Path of the Gods runs roughly 6.5 km between Bomerano and Nocelle, sitting about 500 metres above sea level with a 230-metre elevation gain.
Yes, the sunrise start from Bomerano is the single best decision you can make on the Amalfi Coast. You get the trail almost to yourself, cooler temperatures, and the kind of light that makes you forget you’re sweating.
Solo hikers
Couples
Photographers
Why Bomerano, and why sunrise
The Path of the Gods has multiple starting points, but Bomerano gives you the easiest grade and the best morning light.
Most people start the trail from Bomerano because the path barely climbs — it descends gently toward Nocelle instead. The difficulty is considered easy to moderate from this direction, and even hikers with average fitness find it manageable. The trail sits roughly 500 metres above sea level, which means you get sweeping views of the Mediterranean and the Li Galli islands from the first ten minutes.
Starting early, around 7:30, matters more than you think. The trail has no shops, restaurants, or bathrooms once you leave Bomerano. By 10:30, the sun bakes the limestone cliffs, and the path fills with day-trippers coming from the other direction. I passed only three people in the first hour and a half. By the time I reached Nocelle, the trail was busy enough that I had to step aside for donkeys and horses on the narrow sections.
Catch the 6:50 bus from San Lazzaro in Agerola to Bomerano. Grab a cornetto in the piazza near the church before you start — the baker opens early and the pastries are still warm.
What the trail actually looks like
The path cuts across limestone mountains, past terraced farms, abandoned stone houses, and pockets of forest that feel a world away from the coast below.
Red and white trail markers guide you the whole way, so you never need to worry about getting lost. The first kilometre winds through meadows dotted with wildflowers — in April and May, the poppies are striking. You pass old stone farmhouses with donkeys grazing on the terraces. Farmers still use these terraces, and you can see the irrigation channels cut into the rock centuries ago.
The middle section opens onto wide views of Positano’s cliffs and the sea. The path narrows here, with a drop on one side and scrub on the other. It’s not dangerous if you watch your footing, but it’s not a place to look at your phone. I stopped several times just to let the view settle. The light in the early morning turns the water a deep turquoise, and the pastel houses of Positano catch the sun before the rest of the coast does.
The last section before Nocelle goes through a forested stretch that feels cooler and more shaded. You emerge onto a small plateau with a few houses and a lemon cart. That’s Nocelle. The whole hike from Bomerano took me about one hour and forty-five minutes at a steady pace with stops.
The trail is well marked and maintained, but after rain, the rocky sections can get slippery. Trail runners work fine for most of the path, though hiking boots give you more confidence on the descent into Nocelle.
Nocelle and the descent to Positano
Nocelle sits nearly 450 metres above sea level, and it’s the official end of the Path of the Gods — but Positano is still a long way down.
Nocelle is a small cluster of houses with a few benches, a church, and the famous Lemon Point cart that sells fresh lemonade in the main square. There are public toilets near the church, which is welcome after two hours on the trail. The square has a peaceful, unhurried feel — most people stop here for ten minutes before deciding how to get down to Positano.
You have three options for the descent. The first is a staircase of about 1,700 steps that drops steeply into Positano. It takes roughly 45 minutes and is harder on the knees than the trail itself. The second option is a bus from Nocelle to Positano — it runs roughly once per hour with no fixed timetable, so you might wait. The third is a taxi, which costs around 30 euros and can be arranged through the bar in the square.
The 1,700-step staircase is steep and uneven. If you have bad knees or are hiking with kids, take the bus. The steps are also exposed to the sun, so by late morning they get hot.
I took the stairs down and felt it in my calves for two days. The steps wind through narrow alleys and past small gardens, and you catch glimpses of Positano’s dome — the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta — as you descend. The church dates to the 10th century and holds a Black Madonna icon. It’s worth a quick stop at the harbour before you find lunch.
What to bring, what to skip
The trail has no facilities, so what you carry is what you get.
Water is the most important thing. There are no fountains on the trail between Bomerano and Nocelle, and the sun can be intense even in spring. I carried 1.5 litres and drank all of it. Snacks are a good idea too — nuts, dried fruit, a sandwich. You won’t find a shop once you leave the piazza in Bomerano.
I brought a small camera setup for this hike and used a compact drone to capture the coastline from above — the vertical shooting mode is perfect for the cliffs, and the three-axis gimbal keeps the footage stable even when the trail gets rocky. The drone weighs under 249 grams, so no registration is needed, and the return-to-home feature gave me peace of mind over the water. If you’re a photographer, early morning is the time to fly — the light is soft and the wind is calm.
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Leave behind anything heavy. A daypack with water, snacks, a light jacket, and your camera is enough. The trail is moderate, but you’ll enjoy it more if you’re not carrying a full bag.
Bomerano vs. other starting points
The Path of the Gods can be hiked from several places, and the choice changes the experience significantly.
| Start Point | Difficulty | Best for |
|---|---|---|
| Bomerano (Agerola) | Easy to moderate — mostly downhill | First-timers, photographers, early birds |
| Nocelle | Moderate to challenging — uphill facing sun | Experienced hikers, those staying in Positano |
| Praiano | Moderate — connects to main trail | Those based in Praiano, shorter day |
| Positano (via steps) | Challenging — over 1,500 steps up first | Fitness-focused hikers, avoiding buses |
Starting from Bomerano gives you the easiest grade and the best morning light. Starting from Nocelle means you hike uphill into the sun, which is hotter and more crowded by late morning. Praiano offers a shorter option that connects to the main trail, but you miss the full Bomerano-to-Nocelle stretch. Positano is the hardest start — you climb over 1,500 steps before you even reach the trail.
- Start from Bomerano at 7:30 to avoid crowds and heat — the trail is empty and the light is best before 9am.
- Take the bus from Nocelle to Positano if you have knee issues or are hiking with kids — the 1,700 steps are punishing.
- Hike between April and June or September and October for the best weather and fewer people on the trail.
Path of the Gods practical questions
How hard is the Path of the Gods from Bomerano?
It’s considered easy to moderate. The trail descends gently from Bomerano to Nocelle, so you don’t gain much elevation. Decent fitness and proper shoes are enough.
Most people finish in two to three hours with stops. The rocky sections near the middle require attention, but the path is well marked and not technical.
Is the Path of the Gods worth it if I’m not a hiker?
Yes, if you start from Bomerano. The grade is manageable, and the views are unlike anything you see from the road. You don’t need hiking experience.
If you’re unsure, hike just the first 2 kilometres from Bomerano and turn back — you’ll still see the best views without committing to the full distance.
Is the trail too crowded in summer?
It can be. July and August bring heavy foot traffic, especially after 10am. The trail is narrow in sections, so passing groups can be slow.
If you visit in peak season, start at 7am and you’ll have the trail to yourself for the first hour. The earlier you go, the fewer people you’ll see.
What’s the biggest downside of the Path of the Gods?
The descent from Nocelle to Positano. The 1,700 steps are steep, uneven, and exposed to the sun. Many people underestimate how hard they are on the knees.
The bus from Nocelle is unreliable — it runs roughly once per hour with no fixed schedule. If you can’t walk the steps, arrange a taxi in advance through the bar in the square.
Can I hike the Path of the Gods with kids?
It depends on the child. Lily was seven when we did it, and she managed the Bomerano-to-Nocelle section fine with stops. The 1,700 steps down to Positano were too much for her.
We took the bus from Nocelle instead. If your kids are younger than six or not used to walking on uneven terrain, consider a shorter section or a different trail like the Valle delle Ferriere.
Why the early start stays with you
I’ve hiked trails in a dozen countries, and I keep coming back to this one because of the quiet. The Path of the Gods at dawn feels like a secret — even though thousands of people walk it every year. The light on the limestone, the smell of wild fennel, the way the sea glows before the tour boats arrive. That hour between Bomerano and the first viewpoint is why I wake up early when I travel. It’s not about avoiding crowds. It’s about seeing a place before it puts on its face for the day. For more quiet moments on the Amalfi Coast, this guide to finding luxury beyond the crowds has a few of my favourites.
Sources and further reading
amalfi.travel. “Footpath of the Gods.” 🔗
Jen Around the World. “Best Hiking Trails in the Amalfi Coast.” 🔗
Epicurean Excursion. “Hiking the Path of the Gods from Bomerano to Positano.” 🔗
Never Ending Voyage. “Path of the Gods Hike Amalfi Coast Budget.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Explore Italy’s Amalfi Coast Beaches — A guide to the best beaches along the coast, including family-friendly spots and hidden coves worth the walk.
Discover Family Fun on the Italian Amalfi Coast — Practical advice for travelling the coast with kids, from ferry routes to kid-friendly restaurants.
Salerno: Your Down-to-Earth Gateway to the Amalfi Coast — Why Salerno makes a better base than Positano or Amalfi for most travellers, with lower prices and easier transport links.
Amalfi Coast’s License Plate Rule Changes Travel — What the ZTL and license plate restrictions mean for drivers and how to avoid fines during peak season.