My recent trip to Italy was a two-part adventure, starting in Bologna and then heading to the beautiful town of Sirmione on Lake Garda. It was incredibly hot, with temperatures consistently above 35 degrees Celsius, making the covered walkways of Bologna and the cooler evenings by the lake particularly welcome. Bologna, the capital of the Emilia-Romagna region, offered a rich introduction to Northern Italy with its historic university and extensive porticoes. From there, a quick train ride brought us to Sirmione in Lombardy, a truly stunning spot on Lake Garda.
Exploring Bologna’s Ancient Porticoes
Bologna is a city defined by its unique architecture, especially its porticoes. These covered walkways, stretching over 50 kilometers, are more than just practical shelters from the sun and rain. They are living history, with many dating back to the first century. We found them invaluable for navigating the city, especially during the intense daytime heat. Each portico has its own character, from simple wooden beams to grand marble columns and painted ceilings. It’s no wonder they were recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2021. Walking under them felt like stepping back in time.
A Walk to San Luca
One of the most memorable experiences in Bologna was walking the longest portico in the world, a stretch of almost 4 kilometers with over 660 arches. This impressive structure leads up to the Sanctuary of the Madonna of San Luca, a beautiful basilica church perched on the forested Colle della Guardia hill. The climb was, as expected, quite strenuous, especially in the heat. But the reward at the top was immense. Standing on the panoramic terrace, you get a breathtaking 180-degree view of Bologna, stretching from the hills all the way to the city center and beyond to the ancient town of Casalecchio di Reno, a fascinating glimpse into early Celtic settlements.
What is Bolognese food like?
Bologna is a food lover’s dream. It’s famous for its rich, meat-based pasta sauces, known in Italy as ragú. We ate incredibly well throughout our three days, from morning to night. No meal was a disappointment. For a true taste of the city’s culinary scene, you absolutely must visit Mercato delle Erbe. This covered market is a cornucopia of cafes, restaurants, wine bars, and traditional food stalls. Also essential is a wander through the Quadrilatero, the city’s oldest market district. Its maze-like network of tiny laneways is incredibly atmospheric and really brings Bologna’s history to life.
A Glimpse of Life in Bologna
During our stay, we decided to embrace the local culture by attending an outdoor screening in Piazza Maggiore. It was a magical evening. As darkness fell, the orchestra of the Teatro Comunale di Bologna began to play, providing a live soundtrack to Charlie Chaplin’s 1925 silent film, “The Gold Rush.” The piazza was packed with people, all focused on the giant screen and the music. Despite the warm night air, the atmosphere was wonderfully calm and dignified. It felt like a true community event, a summer ritual that residents and visitors alike cherish. The way the crowd dispersed so quickly and tidily after the film ended was also remarkable, leaving the piazza ready for late-night strolls.
Seeking Coolness in the City
With the temperatures hovering around 35 degrees daily, finding ways to stay cool was key. Our accommodation in Bologna was a spacious, air-conditioned Airbnb located very centrally, though it required a bit of a climb up several flights of stairs. We also spent time exploring the city’s many air-conditioned cafes and shops. Sipping on pistachio lattes and people-watching became a favorite pastime. Wandering in and out of shops was a pleasant way to escape the heat and browse the local fashion. As the day cooled down, we’d head back out to enjoy the evenings, often finding ourselves drawn to the lively yet relaxed atmosphere near the cafes and bars.
Where to stay in Bologna
We stayed in a centrally located Airbnb in Bologna, which was very convenient for exploring the Old Town and its porticoes. For those seeking a more luxurious experience, there are numerous hotels to suit different budgets throughout the city. Many offer modern amenities alongside traditional Italian style, providing a comfortable base for your explorations. The city is well-equipped to handle visitors, ensuring you can find accommodation that fits your needs and preferences.
The Allure of Sirmione
Our second destination was the town of Sirmione, situated on a picturesque peninsula jutting out into Lake Garda. The train journey from Bologna was smooth and took about two hours. Access to the historical center of Sirmione is limited to taxis and residents, with public parking available outside the town walls. We arrived via a narrow, fortified gate, which leads into a series of charming, narrow streets bathed in sunlight. The air here felt different, perhaps a bit more exclusive. We noticed a local policeman kindly asking a tourist to cover his bare chest, a small reminder that Sirmione maintains a certain level of decorum.
A Taste of Luxury at Villa Cortine
Our accommodation in Sirmione was the Villa Cortine, a five-star Relais & Chateaux property. From the moment we drove through its grand gates, we understood why it’s so highly regarded. The villa exudes a warm, romantic ambiance, blending old-world elegance with contemporary comforts. Think 18th-century furniture, Veronese marble, and Murano glass chandeliers, all complemented by air-conditioned rooms and a heated outdoor swimming pool. The private pier overlooking Lake Garda was a particular highlight, offering stunning views and a serene place to relax. While the cost of mimosas at €28 a glass was certainly on the higher side, the experience was unforgettable. It’s a place that truly makes you feel like you’re stepping into a different era.
What are the best things to do in Sirmione?
Sirmione itself is incredibly picturesque, ideal for couples or solo travelers looking for a peaceful retreat away from noisy bars and nightclubs. There are many excellent restaurants with reasonable prices. We particularly enjoyed Ristorante Pizzeria al Pescatore for its simple, delicious offerings and Tavernetta Maria Callas for a slightly more upscale experience. For an afternoon of relaxation, Jamaica Beach is a popular spot, though it’s more pebbly than sandy. History enthusiasts will want to visit Scaligero Castle, a well-preserved 13th-century fortress, and the archaeological site of Catullus’ villa, an expansive area showcasing Roman ruins. The yellow Art Nouveau villa of Maria Callas, where the opera singer lived in the 1950s, is also worth a visit. For a scenic tour of the peninsula, you can opt for a boat trip on Lake Garda. While private motorboat tours are available, they can be quite expensive. A more budget-friendly option is a Lake Garda Tours cruise around the peninsula, which runs hourly and offers a lovely 25-minute perspective of the town and its surroundings for a fraction of the price.
Relaxing by Lake Garda
The intense daytime heat in Sirmione meant that our explorations were often concentrated in the cooler parts of the day. We found a lot of pleasure in simply relaxing in the town’s air-conditioned cafes, enjoying pistachio lattes and observing the world go by. Browsing the boutiques was another enjoyable way to cool down and discover local crafts and fashion. In the evenings, as the temperature dipped, we would make our way to the pier. Listening to the gentle lapping of the water and the soft, ambient music drifting from nearby bars and restaurants created a truly calming atmosphere. It was during these quiet moments that we truly appreciated the magic of Sirmione.
Sunset Views and Lake Garda Evenings
The views from the pier are simply magical. On our final night, we sat at one of the lakeside bars, mesmerized by the distant, burnished glow of the sunset. It was easy to understand why Maria Callas once wrote about wanting to end her days in Sirmione. The tranquility and beauty of the place are profound. Even with the children running around, finding quiet moments to soak it all in was effortless. Lily loved skipping stones at the water’s edge while Ethan watched the boats glide by. These simple family moments, set against such a stunning backdrop, are what travel is all about. We’re already plotting our return to this little piece of heaven on earth.
Can you swim in Lake Garda?
Yes, you can swim in Lake Garda. There are several beaches and swimming areas around Sirmione, including Jamaica Beach. The water is generally clear and refreshing, though it can be quite cool even in the summer months. Remember that some areas are pebbly, so water shoes might be a good idea.
Is Sirmione expensive?
Sirmione can be an expensive destination, particularly if you choose to stay in luxury accommodations like Villa Cortine. However, there are options to suit various budgets, from hotels to guesthouses. Dining prices are generally reasonable, especially if you venture slightly away from the most prime tourist spots. Boat tours and some attractions have higher price points, but there are always more affordable alternatives available, like the public peninsula cruise.
Italy offers so much to see and do, and my recent visits to Bologna and Sirmione provided a wonderful blend of history, culture, and breathtaking scenery. Whether you’re drawn to the ancient porticoes and culinary delights of Bologna or the serene beauty of Lake Garda in Sirmione, this region of Italy promises a memorable experience. I hope you get to visit soon.