Italy’s Lombardy region is home to two historic cities, Bergamo and Brescia, that are sharing the title of Italian Capital of Culture for 2023. This joint designation highlights their resilience after being severely impacted by the early days of the pandemic. Both cities are eager to showcase their rich cultural heritage and attract visitors, aiming to boost tourism after a difficult period.
Bergamo and Brescia are Italy’s first joint Capital of Culture.
The collaboration between Bergamo and Brescia is particularly significant given their centuries-old rivalry. This historical competition dates back to at least the twelfth century, marked by territorial disputes and notable events like the Battle of Cortenuova in 1237. The rivalry extended into modern times, famously manifesting in the passionate football derby between Brescia Calcio and Atalanta BC of Bergamo.
The fervor of this football rivalry, known as the Lombardio, has a colorful history. In the 1930s, Brescia fans famously released rabbits onto the pitch, a jab at the Bergamaschi nickname “rabbits.” The Bergamaschi, in turn, called their neighbors “pigs.” The intensity reached a peak in 1993 when the derby was suspended multiple times due to crowd disturbances, leading to arrests and hospitalizations, which authorities believe contributed to stricter policing measures in Italian football.
It’s fascinating how a shared difficult experience can transform deep-seated rivalries into partnerships. This year of culture feels like a genuine opportunity for these cities to shine together, showcasing more than just their individual strengths but also their collective spirit.
Bergamo Exploration
You can start your journey in Bergamo, which is easily accessible by a short train ride from Milan. The city is composed of three distinct areas: a modern lower section, a historic walled old town, and tranquil hills. A funicular system connects these parts, offering scenic views that are quite Instagram-worthy.
History buffs
Art enthusiasts
Romantic getaways
The Città Alta, or upper old town, is a highlight. It is encircled by well-preserved Venetian walls and features a maze of narrow streets, cobblestone paths, and ancient churches. Key landmarks include Piazza Vecchia, the Cathedral of Bergamo with its elaborate ceilings, and the Basilica of Santa Maria Maggiore. If you visit during the summer, you might catch the Donizetti Night and Opera Festival, which turns the city center into a performance space with concerts and shows.
For art lovers, the Accademia Carrara gallery is a must-visit. This institution houses an extensive collection of Renaissance and Baroque art, showcasing works by masters like Botticelli and Raphael. Across the street, the Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art presents its exhibition “Trilogy of Matter,” exploring contemporary themes through works by artists such as Yoko Ono and Josef Albers. Lily was particularly drawn to the vibrant colors in some of the Renaissance pieces, while Michael was impressed by the scale of the modern installations.
Bergamo’s historic center, Città Alta, is largely car-free, making it ideal for walking and exploring on foot.
Transition to Brescia
A new 80-mile path, the Cammino Bergamo-Brescia, has opened, designed for walkers and cyclists. This scenic route directly connects the two capital cities, offering an eight-stage hike over six days. It passes through picturesque countryside, rural villages, and features various art installations. Alternatively, a train journey between the cities takes about an hour and is quite affordable.
If Bergamo is perceived as calm and aesthetically pleasing, Brescia offers a more energetic and edgy atmosphere. The city has a lively feel, with numerous bars and a vibrant nightlife scene. For families, getting around can be a bit more about evening strolls and finding gelato spots after the kids settle down.
The Teatro Grande is a significant venue. Its baroque foyer is particularly impressive, and it has hosted many important moments in opera history. The theatre’s current programming includes both contemporary and classical music and dance. A notable event for the Capital of Culture program was a new production of ‘Madama Butterfly’ in July, referencing the opera’s successful 1904 relaunch in Brescia after its initial Milan debut.
Book tickets for performances at Teatro Grande in advance, especially for popular shows, as they can sell out.
For those interested in history, the Santa Giulia Museum is highly recommended. Located in a former Benedictine monastery, it houses a vast collection of Lombard artifacts and art spanning from the fourth millennium BCE to the eighteenth century. The museum complex also includes remnants of Roman villas, featuring remarkably preserved floor mosaics. Even Ethan, who usually struggles with museum visits, was mesmerized by the detailed Roman mosaics.
The Roman heritage in Brescia is particularly striking.
Roman Brescia and UNESCO Sites
Adjacent to the Santa Giulia Museum, you can explore the Roman Brescia Archaeological Park. This site is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and contains ancient temples, burial grounds, and an interactive museum situated in one of the city’s oldest squares. The park offers a comprehensive look into the Roman presence in the region.
For 2023, both the Santa Giulia Museum and the Roman Brescia Archaeological Park are connected by a “UNESCO corridor.” This allows visitors to experience both locations with a single ticket, simplifying access and encouraging a deeper exploration of the area’s historical significance. Connecting these sites provides a seamless journey through different historical periods.
| City | Key Attractions | Cultural Highlights | Travel Time from Milan |
|---|---|---|---|
| Bergamo | Città Alta, Accademia Carrara, Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art | Renaissance & Baroque Art, Opera Festival, Venetian Walls | Under 1 hour by train |
| Brescia | Santa Giulia Museum, Roman Archaeological Park, Teatro Grande | Lombard Artifacts, Roman Mosaics, Opera History | Approx. 1 hour by train |
The Italian government and private investors have contributed significant funding to the Capital of Culture project, aiming to revitalize the local economy. The cities anticipate a 20 percent increase in tourism and hope this initiative will establish them as leading city-break destinations in Italy long-term. The ongoing success of fostering this partnership, moving beyond their historical rivalry, remains to be seen, but the initial steps have been promising.
Both cities have a wealth of offerings, from fine wines and cheeses to stunning mountain scenery. The year-long Capital of Culture program features around 600 events, including light festivals and concerts, providing ample opportunities for visitors to engage with the local culture and heritage.
The initiative is designed to showcase the resilience of these Lombard cities. By coming together, Bergamo and Brescia are not only celebrating their past but also actively shaping their future as cultural hubs. The variety of events planned throughout the year ensures there is something for every type of traveler. It’s a great chance to experience a less tourist-trodden side of Italy.