I stepped off the Espresso Cadore at Calalzo-Pieve di Cadore just after 8 a.m., and the air smelled like pine and cold stone. The train had left Rome Termini at 9:50 p.m. the night before, and I’d woken up in the Dolomites without setting foot in an airport or a rental car. That ten-hour overnight journey is the whole point. Italy’s state railway company, FS Treni Turistici Italiani, relaunched this vintage sleeper service in December 2023 after it had been discontinued in 2011, and it now runs weekends through the winter ski season. I wanted to see if it actually worked for a family like mine — or if the romance of a night train fades fast when you’re sharing a cabin with a seven-year-old.
Yes, the Espresso Cadore is a genuinely fun, practical way to reach the Dolomites from Rome — but only if you book a private cabin, pack light, and go in with realistic expectations about space and bathroom arrangements.
Families with older kids (6+)
Skiers heading to Cortina
Solo travelers who want an experience
The Espresso Cadore isn’t a luxury train. Luigi Cantamessa, managing director of FS Treni Turistici Italiani, has been clear about that — he told Condé Nast Traveler that this is not the Orient Express. The carriages were built in the 1980s and 1990s, then refurbished while keeping their period character. You get updated sleeping cars with single, double, or four-bunk cabins, FS-branded linens, blackout curtains, a welcome kit with earplugs and slippers, air conditioning, and a washbasin in each cabin. Toilets are shared at the end of the car. That last detail matters more than you think when you’re traveling with kids.
What it’s actually like on board the Espresso Cadore
The train feels like a time capsule, but in a good way — if you’re prepared for the quirks.
We boarded at Roma Termini on a Friday evening. Uniformed FS attendants greeted passengers at the platform and walked us to our cabin. The hallway had red carpeting, and the cabin itself was compact but functional: two bunks on one side, a small fold-down seat, a sink with a mirror, and overhead storage. Michael took the top bunk, Lily claimed the lower one, and Ethan curled up next to me on the opposite bench. The cabin attendant came by to confirm our dinner seating and offered to bring meals to the room if we preferred.
Dinner is included in sleeper cabin prices, and it’s served in the dining car — white tablecloths, white-jacketed staff, a three-course meal. We had linguine alla puttanesca, sea bream filet, and a dark chocolate panettone tart. There’s also a children’s menu, which Lily appreciated because she’s not a fan of fish. The bar car stays open all night, serving prosecco and grappa, and it became the unofficial social hub for passengers who weren’t ready to sleep.
Book the first dinner seating (around 10:30 p.m.) if you’re traveling with young kids. The dining car is quieter earlier, and your kids can eat before they crash. The second seating starts closer to midnight.
Breakfast arrives the next morning — cornetti, yogurt, juice, and coffee, with gluten-free options available if you request them in advance. We ate in our cabin while the train rolled through the Veneto foothills, and by the time we finished, we were pulling into Calalzo-Pieve di Cadore. A bus was waiting to take passengers the final 50 minutes to Cortina d’Ampezzo, and that transfer is included in your ticket.
Pricing, cabins, and what you actually pay
The price range is wide, and the choice between a bunk and a private cabin makes a real difference in comfort.
One-way tickets start at around $183 for a bunk bed in a six-person shared cabin, which includes dinner and breakfast. A private single cabin runs about $422 one-way, and an exclusive four-person cabin costs up to $655 one-way. Round-trip sleeper cabins for exclusive use range from €300 to €500, while couchettes run €200 to €400. Day-trip Espresso services — like the Espresso Riviera from Milan to the Riviera — start at €89 round-trip in second class.
For our family of four, we booked a private four-person cabin. It was tight — think cruise cabin, not hotel room — but having the door lock and knowing we weren’t sharing with strangers made a huge difference. The cabin has a sink, which helped with brushing teeth and washing faces before bed. The shared toilets at the end of the car were clean but basic, and I’d recommend bringing your own hand sanitizer and wipes.
The shared toilet situation is the biggest friction point for families. There’s no en-suite bathroom in any cabin category. If your child needs to go in the middle of the night, you’ll be walking down a moving train corridor. Pack a small travel potty for toddlers if you’re brave enough to attempt this with a four-year-old.
Tickets are sold online through the FS Treni Turistici Italiani website. The train runs Friday evenings from Rome Termini, arriving Saturday morning, with a return service Sunday evening. Additional daily service runs December 27 through January 3. The train carries up to 220 overnight guests, and cabins sell out — especially during peak ski season and around the holidays.
Why this train matters for Cortina and the Dolomites
Cortina d’Ampezzo is a big name in winter sports, and this train makes it more accessible without a car.
Cortina hosted the 1956 Winter Olympics and will co-host the 2026 Winter Games alongside Milan. It’s also part of Dolomiti Superski, which claims to be the world’s largest ski area — 12 resorts connected by 450 lifts and gondolas. The Espresso Cadore connects directly to that world, with a dedicated storage car for skis, snowboards, bikes, and other outdoor gear. You can even buy a ski pass on board.
For summer visitors, the train offers a different kind of access. The Dolomites are one of Italy’s most popular hiking destinations, and arriving by train means you skip the traffic on the SS51 highway into Cortina. The bus transfer from Calalzo to Cortina takes about 50 minutes and drops you in the town center, close to hotels and trailheads.
If you’re looking for a quieter base, consider staying in one of the smaller towns along the train’s route or booking a room at a spa hotel with easy trail access. The Espresso Cadore is part of a broader push by FS Treni Turistici Italiani to promote slow, sustainable travel and reduce car traffic to popular destinations. The company has 400 decommissioned carriages available for refurbishment, and future routes include Rome to Marseille along the Costa Azzurra and Rome to Gallipoli in Puglia.
Espresso Cadore vs. flying to Venice and driving
The fastest alternative to the night train is flying from Rome to Venice, then driving two hours to Cortina. Here’s how they compare.
| Espresso Cadore | Fly + drive | |
|---|---|---|
| Total travel time | ~10 hours overnight (sleep) | ~4–5 hours (plus airport time) |
| Cost (family of 4) | €300–500 round-trip (private cabin) | €200–600+ flights + rental car + fuel |
| Stress factor | Low — board, eat, sleep, arrive | Medium — security, delays, traffic |
| Carbon impact | Lower per passenger | Higher |
| Fun factor | High — it’s an experience | Low — it’s transport |
For our family, the night train won on experience and ease. Lily still talks about “the train with the restaurant.” Ethan fell asleep before we left the station. Michael and I shared a bottle of prosecco in the bar car after the kids were down. That doesn’t happen on a Ryanair flight.
- Book a private cabin if you’re traveling with kids — the shared six-person bunk room is fine for solo travelers or couples, but families need the door lock and privacy.
- Pack a small bag for the cabin and leave larger luggage in the dedicated storage car. The cabins are compact, and you don’t want to wrestle a suitcase in a moving train.
- Reserve dinner seating early and request any dietary needs (gluten-free, children’s menu) when you book your ticket.
Before you ride the Espresso Cadore
Is the train worth it if I’m not skiing?
Yes. The Dolomites are just as popular for summer hiking, and the train runs during winter only for now, but summer routes are part of the long-term plan. If you’re visiting Cortina for the scenery, food, or spa hotels, the train still saves you a car rental and a long drive.
Can I bring a bike or e-bike?
Yes. The train has a dedicated storage car for bikes, skis, and outdoor gear. E-bike charging and rental are also available on board. Just note that space is limited, so you’ll want to confirm availability when you book.
Is the train actually comfortable for sleeping?
It depends on your expectations. The beds are firm but fine, the blackout curtains work well, and the train is quieter than I expected. The shared toilet situation is the main downside. If you’re a light sleeper, bring earplugs — the welcome kit includes them.
What’s the biggest disappointment?
The lack of en-suite bathrooms. For the price of a private cabin, I expected at least a toilet. The shared facilities are clean, but walking down the corridor at 3 a.m. with a sleepy kid is not fun. If that’s a dealbreaker, this train isn’t for you.
How far in advance should I book?
As soon as dates are released. The train carries only 220 passengers, and cabins sell out weeks ahead for peak periods like Christmas, New Year’s, and February ski weeks. Check the FS Treni Turistici Italiani website for the schedule.
Why I’d ride the Espresso Cadore again
The Espresso Cadore isn’t perfect. The bathrooms are shared, the cabins are small, and the schedule only runs weekends. But it turned a logistical hurdle — getting from Rome to the Dolomites — into one of the most memorable parts of our trip. Lily fell asleep watching the lights of Orte fade through the window. Ethan woke up asking if we were in a castle. Michael and I sat in the bar car after midnight, talking to a retired couple from Bologna who were heading to Cortina to ski for the first time in twenty years. That doesn’t happen on a highway. If you want to read more about planning a trip to the Dolomites with fewer crowds, I wrote about how to plan a Dolomites hiking trip with fewer crowds — it pairs well with the train.
Sources and further reading
Erica Firpo. “Italy Launches New Sleeper Train Routes From Rome.” Afar, 2024. 🔗
Erica Firpo. “Review: Italy’s Espresso Cadore Night Train to the Dolomites.” Afar, 2024. 🔗
Condé Nast Traveler. “This Retro Sleeper Train Takes You From Rome to the Dolomites.” 2023. 🔗
Travel Tomorrow. “Italy Launches Vintage Sleeper Trains From Rome to Dolomites.” 2023. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Experience the Dolomites: Spa Hotels and Easy Hikes — A guide to combining relaxation and gentle hiking in the Dolomites, perfect for families or anyone who wants a less strenuous mountain trip.
Italy’s Shoulder Season Hike: Dolomites Peacefully — Why late spring and early fall offer the best balance of good weather and fewer crowds on Dolomites trails.
Experience Italy’s Best Family-Friendly Hotels in the Dolomites — A curated list of hotels that actually work for families, with kid-friendly amenities and easy access to hiking and skiing.
Dolomites Hikes Demand Smart Planning — Practical advice on trail selection, permits, and timing to avoid the most common mistakes first-time Dolomites hikers make.