I’ve always found it surprising how many visitors flock to Italy, yet so many stay within the well-trodden paths. My recent journey took me to Emilia-Romagna, a region often overlooked in favor of its more famous neighbors, Tuscany and Lombardy. It was a delightful discovery, offering just as much beauty and culture, but with a wonderfully relaxed pace and incredibly tempting prices for meals and stays. This region truly felt like the heart of Italian gastronomy.
Emilia Romagna A Foodie’s Dream
Stretching from the Po Delta’s wetlands to the Adriatic coast, Emilia-Romagna is a land of fertile plains. It’s here that many of Italy’s most iconic culinary ingredients are born. Imagine organizing an entire trip around tasting artisan prosciutto crudo and mortadella, the intensely flavored balsamic vinegar of Modena, and Parmigiano Reggiano, the king of Italian cheeses. Beyond the edible delights, the cities of Bologna, Parma, Ferrara, and Ravenna boast stunning Renaissance palaces, ancient frescoed churches, and unique Byzantine art, often enjoyed without the usual tourist throngs.
Parma’s Artistic Heritage and Delicacies
While the true culinary stars of Parma are found in its surrounding countryside, the city itself is a treasure trove of architectural wonders. The Piazza Duomo is dominated by a magnificent Romanesque cathedral. Inside, the frescoes are rivaled only by those within the adjacent medieval baptistery. Its minimalist exterior belies the explosion of color from 13th and 14th-century paintings that adorn the interior walls. It was a quiet moment of awe, and I imagined Lily tracing the ancient figures with her finger.
Just behind the cathedral, the peaceful 10th-century Monastero di San Giovanni offers a serene escape. The vast Palazzo della Pilotta houses the Teatro Farnese, a remarkable example of Baroque architecture. I could almost hear the echoes of past performances in its wooden structure.
The Langhirano valley, south of Parma, is the birthplace of prosciutto crudo di Parma. Around 500 authorized producers open their doors for tastings and sales. I joined a guided food tour that took me into the hills to Salumificio Conti. Witnessing the traditional salting and aging process was fascinating, a true behind-the-scenes look at artisanal craftsmanship.
On the plains north of Parma, I visited a cheese-making cooperative near Baganzola. While individuals can’t usually visit, going with a guide allowed me to put on plastic overalls and follow the entire process. From the churning of the milk to tasting cheeses aged for an incredible 36 months, it was an unforgettable experience. I imagined bringing a small wheel of this cheese home for a special family dinner.
Where to taste Parma’s finest
The Oste Magno, tucked away on a Parma backstreet, offers a glimpse into local life. The atmosphere is lively, and the wines from the Parma hills, like a sparkling malvasia, are surprisingly delicious. Paired with a hearty roast pork panino, it was a simple, cheap, and satisfying meal. It reminded me of meals we’ve shared at local diners back home in Boston.
For a truly exceptional culinary experience, head north to villages like Zibello, renowned for its lean culatello ham. Trattoria La Buca di Zibello, presided over by the formidable Signora Miriam for decades, is legendary. Diners often let her choose their meal, and her handmade tagliatelle with culatello is sublime.
Where to stay in Parma
Parma offers a range of accommodation. Simple B&Bs like Pio provide comfortable stays. For a more luxurious experience, consider Palazzo Dalla Rosa Prati, with suites offering stunning views over Piazza Duomo. Agriturismi in the Langhirano valley provide a rustic charm, with options like Azienda Agricola Cardinali also featuring lively restaurants.
Modena’s Balsamic and Sparkling Wines
Modena is synonymous with exceptional balsamic vinegar. I arranged a visit to Acetaia del Cristo in San Prospero, a delightful experience where Daniele Bonfatti tours his facility. Here, the rich vinegar ages for up to 25 years in small wooden barrels. It was a quiet affair, and I pictured Michael sharing a story about his favorite wine with Ethan, who loves trying new things.
The surrounding vineyards produce Lambrusco, a light, fizzy red wine that perfectly complements the region’s rich cuisine. The quality has vastly improved over the years. In nearby Nonantola, Cantina Gavioli offers tastings and a museum dedicated to local winemaking history.
Culinary Innovation and Tradition
Modena is also home to Osteria Francescana, a world-renowned restaurant. However, I found equal pleasure in the more rustic Osteria di Rubbiara in Nonantola. Here, the passionate Italo Pedroni theatrically serves his exquisite balsamic vinegar over plump tortelloni stuffed with ricotta. The extensive tasting menu features dishes like guinea fowl and roast pork, a true celebration of regional flavors.
The Garuti family’s agriturismo, surrounded by their vineyards, offers a wonderful experience. Guests can visit the acetaia to taste balsamic vinegar and the winery to sample their Lambrusco. It’s a perfect immersion into the local food and wine culture.
Where to stay near Modena
The Garuti agriturismo provides charming rooms. It’s a peaceful setting that allows you to easily explore the surrounding wineries and balsamic vinegar producers.
Bologna The Culinary Capital
Bologna is rightfully known as Italy’s food capital. To balance the indulgence, the city offers plenty to explore. Climbing the 498 steps to the top of the 12th-century Torre Asinelli rewards you with panoramic views. Bologna’s vibrant atmosphere is partly due to its large student population, with the university being one of the oldest in the world.
I visited the old university library, adorned with flamboyant frescoes, and the unique anatomical theatre. The city is also defined by its extensive porticoes, stretching for some 50 kilometers. These covered walkways are lined with cafes, bars, and shops, offering shelter and a unique way to experience the city.
Bologna’s Classic Flavors
Bologna is a trattoria paradise, serving generous portions of classic home cooking. Handmade tagliatelle with a rich, slow-simmered ragù bolognese is a must-try. Tiny tortellini floating in a warm capon broth are another local specialty. Trattoria Danio is a great spot for affordable, cheerful meals. Even at more elegant establishments like Ristorante Biagi, where Signora Dina Carbone has been cooking for fifty years, the tortellini in brodo remains a delightful and reasonably priced dish.
For wine lovers, Enoteca Italiana boasts an impressive selection of over 600 bottles. However, for a truly authentic experience, the historic Osteria del Sole, serving for centuries, is the place to go, especially near the medieval Mercato di Mezzo.
Where to stay in Bologna
The hotel selection in Bologna is varied. , a small family-owned property, offers a lovely rooftop terrace. B&B Benelli provides spacious rooms in a private flat, with the owner offering invaluable local tips. I always appreciate those personal touches when traveling with family.
Ferrara’s Off-the-Beaten-Path Charm
While Bologna is refreshingly lively, Ferrara feels even more off the beaten track. The colossal Castello Estense dominates the town, surrounded by well-preserved Renaissance palaces and one of Europe’s oldest Jewish ghettoes. The Palazzo dei Diamanti also hosts impressive modern art exhibitions.
A Taste of Ancient Ferrara
Ferrara boasts some of Italy’s oldest establishments. Al Brindisi, dating back to 1435, is recognized as the world’s oldest wine bar. I enjoyed a rare natural wine from nearby seaflats. For a delicious bite, Cusina e Butega offers salama da sugo, a rich pork sausage served with mashed potatoes, described as Ferrara’s haggis.
Where to stay in Ferrara
Hotel Annunziata has been elegantly renovated and offers a stylish stay opposite Estense Castle. For a more intimate experience, B&B Locanda Borgonuovo, situated in a former convent, provides a warm welcome and a peaceful atmosphere.
Ravenna, Byzantine Mosaics, and Adriatic Beaches
The Romagna Riviera along the Adriatic coast is a sprawling stretch of sandy beaches. Ravenna, once the capital of the Western Roman Empire, is now a tranquil town famous for its eight UNESCO World Heritage sites adorned with exceptional Byzantine mosaics. While the Basilica di San Vitale is a mandatory stop, Ravenna deserves an overnight stay.
You can cycle out of town on a free bike from the tourist office to the village of Classe. There, you’ll find the immense Basilica di Sant’Apollinare, filled with glittering Byzantine art. Back in Ravenna, mosaic art continues to thrive, with contemporary ateliers like Marco De Luca at EmmeDi showcasing this living heritage. I could imagine Lily being mesmerized by the tiny, colorful tiles, so different from the drawings she makes.
Further down the coast, Cervia’s Etruscan salt flats still produce a subtle, perfumed salt by hand. Before the busier resorts like Rimini, the charming port of Cesenatico offers a more authentic experience. Cycling fans will appreciate the museum dedicated to Marco Pantani, the town’s most famous son. Traditional wooden fishing boats line the picturesque canal, with the day’s catch unloaded directly into the bustling fish market.
Rimini, Riccione, and Cattolica are classic Italian holiday resorts, offering miles of sandy beaches, lively bars, and nightclubs. For a quieter escape, head into the hills to discover medieval hamlets like the fortified Montegridolfo, a scenic drive from Rimini.
Dining and Drinks by the Adriatic
Ravenna’s Ca’ de Vèn, housed in a 15th-century frescoed palace, is a stunning wine bar showcasing regional wines. A glass is accompanied by local snacks like piadina with prosciutto. In Cesenatico, Stefano Bartolini, a Slow Food proponent, leads the culinary scene. His casual Osteria del Gran Fritto serves gourmet street food dishes.
In Rimini, La Marianna, in the historic Borgo San Giuliano, is a renowned seafood trattoria. Its specialty is chewy passatelli, a pasta made from parmesan, egg, and breadcrumbs, often served with baby calamari. It’s a flavor that speaks to the sea.
Where to stay by the Adriatic
In Ravenna, M club offers chic B&B accommodation in a grand mansion. Cesenatico has cozy B&Bs along its canal, such as Casadodici. For a unique stay, Palazzo Viviani, a former fortress castle atop Montegridolfo, has been transformed by fashion designer Alberta Ferretti into a luxurious hotel, offering breathtaking views.
Traveling through Emilia-Romagna in 2026 feels like stepping into a vibrant and delicious story. This region offers a profound connection to Italy’s culinary roots and artistic history, all while providing a genuinely welcoming and enriching travel experience for any visitor.