Florence is a city that truly grabs you with its beauty and history. Imagine standing on a hotel rooftop, gazing out at the Duomo, Giotto’s Bell-Tower, and the Ponte Vecchio – it feels like stepping into a postcard. While many rush to the famous art museums, we found that Florence offered so much more for a shorter visit.
Explore Local Flavors And Hidden Finds
Our time in Florence was a delightful exploration of its culinary heart and less-trodden paths. We deliberately skipped the long queues at major attractions like the Uffizi Gallery and Pitti Palace, opting instead for experiences that felt more personal and flavorful.
Savory Bites In Oltrarno
Our journey started south of the Arno River in the Oltrarno district. We found ourselves at Alla Vecchia Bettola, a classic trattoria that has been serving up authentic Tuscan cuisine for decades. The atmosphere was lively, filled with both locals and visitors, and the food was a hearty introduction to the region.
We shared a liter of house red wine, served in a traditional fiasco, which was simple but perfectly complemented our meals. I particularly enjoyed the stuffed rabbit, while Michael delighted in a substantial T-bone steak. A delicious tiramisu and a complimentary grappa finished off the meal perfectly. You really can feel the old-school Florentine vibe here.
Later, we discovered Le Volpi e l’uva (The Fox and the Grapes), a wine bar in Piazza dei Rossi. It’s a fantastic place to enjoy local cheeses and salumi paired with excellent Italian wines. It felt worlds away from the crowds on the Ponte Vecchio, offering a more relaxed and authentic experience. If you find yourself in this part of Oltrarno, also explore Il Santino, a cozy wine bar known for its crostini.
A Taste of Tripe
Florence has a unique reverence for offal, and lampredotto is a must-try. This slow-cooked cow’s final stomach is prepared in a flavorful broth and traditionally served in a bread roll with a spicy green salsa. We first noticed its distinct aroma near the Sant’Ambrogio Market, where vendors like Sergio Pollini serve it from traditional vans.
We also tried lampredotto at Da’ Vinattieri, a small spot tucked away on Via Santa Margherita. While the initial smell might be unusual, the taste, especially with the fresh salsa, is a surprisingly enjoyable Florentine specialty. The Sant’Ambrogio Market itself is a wonderful place to visit; it’s more characterful and less expensive than the Mercato Centrale, and it also hosts a flea market.
Stanley Tucci’s Wine Window
For a unique experience, consider a food tour. We joined an ‘Oltrarno at Sunset’ tour which included wine, bruschette, cheese, and charcuterie from various family-run businesses. Our guide, Laura, led us through the neighborhood, sharing insights and local stories.
A highlight was finding the buchette di vino (wine window) on Via Santo Spirito, famously featured by Stanley Tucci. These small apertures were used historically for discreet food and drink service, and it’s fascinating to see a few still in use today. While the wine we had there wasn’t extraordinary, the historical context made it a memorable stop.
Art and Spirituality Beyond the Crowds
While we focused on food and local life, we also made time for art and spiritual sites that offered a more intimate experience than the main tourist hubs.
Michelangelo’s Early Work
The Basilica of Santo Spirito, designed by Brunelleschi, offers a scaled-down version of the Florentine style seen in the Duomo. Unlike the main cathedral, Santo Spirito feels more personal and serene. Inside the old Sacristy, we found a remarkable sculpture by an 18-year-old Michelangelo: a nude Jesus on the cross. This piece, once lost and later restored, displays a touching vulnerability.
It was fascinating to contrast this early work with another Michelangelo masterpiece, the Pietà in the Opera del Duomo museum. This was sculpted much later in his life and remained unfinished. Also in the museum, Donatello’s ‘Penitent Magdalene’ is a truly moving sculpture. We first saw it decades ago, and its portrayal of a gaunt, emaciated Magdalene is unforgettable. Recent restoration has revealed its original gilding, emphasizing its raw power.
A Room with a View of History
We stayed at three distinct hotels, each offering a unique perspective on Florence. The Antica Torre Via de’ Tornabuoni is situated in a 13th-century tower with incredible views. Our room overlooked the Arno River and the Ponte Vecchio, offering a constant reminder of the city’s beauty.
The hotel itself is steeped in history, with connections to the Gianfigliazzi family mentioned in Dante’s Divine Comedy. It was once a lodging for artists and aristocrats, and its restoration has preserved its atmospheric charm with rich furnishings and antiques. Their rooftop terrace, complete with an honesty bar for wine, is the perfect spot for an aperitivo.
Boutique Elegance and Dante’s Influence
La Gemma hotel offers a luxurious and stylish retreat. This boutique newcomer blends fashion, design, and architecture seamlessly, creating a calm haven amidst the city. The rooms are sumptuously decorated, and the hotel boasts an Art Deco vibe throughout. We especially appreciated the attention to detail in our suite.
For a more quirky experience, the 25hours hotel, inspired by Dante, offers rooms themed around ‘Inferno’ or ‘Paradiso.’ This hotel is a lively spot, drawing a younger crowd, and its central courtyard is a hub for food, drinks, and music. It’s an innovative take on a hotel stay, connecting with the city’s literary heritage.
Florentine Steak and Culinary Traditions
No visit to Florence is complete without sampling its famous Bistecca alla Fiorentina. While you can find vegan options and traditional dishes like fagioli, the heart of Florentine cuisine for many is its beef.
The Famous T-Bone
The city’s markets and restaurants prominently feature Chianina beef, the local breed. We enjoyed a taste of this on our food tour, but for the full experience, I’d recommend a restaurant like Regina Bistecca. This establishment, once a renowned bookseller, now offers an elegant dining room where the focus is on perfectly grilled steaks.
We ordered our Bistecca alla Fiorentina rare, as is traditional, and it was cooked to perfection with a wonderful char and a succulent interior. The wine list here is excellent, with a strong selection of Chiantis that pair beautifully with the steak. For a fuller meal, consider the set menu, which includes antipasti and desserts.
We were also fortunate to stumble upon a traditional food van serving lampredotto, the fourth stomach of a cow, slow-cooked and served in a roll. The smell of it stewing in the broth, a mix of tomato, onion, and herbs, wafted through the square, and it was a surprisingly delicious local treat. Florence really embraces its culinary heritage, even the more unusual parts.
A Memorable Family Moment
During our visit, one evening we found ourselves strolling along the Arno River as the sun began to set. Lily, our seven-year-old, was captivated by the reflections on the water, pointing out the colors and shapes. Michael brought up the idea of finding a small, local shop for a treat, remembering a mention of a particular gelateria from our hotel concierge.
We ended up at a small, unassuming spot not far from the Ponte Vecchio. Lily chose a vibrant strawberry gelato, while Ethan, our four-year-old, opted for a creamy pistachio. Watching them enjoy their cones, their faces smeared with sweetness, with the historic Ponte Vecchio in the background, was a simple yet perfect moment of family travel. It’s these unscripted experiences that truly make a trip special.
Florence is a city that offers a wealth of experiences, from its rich art and history to its incredible food scene. Whether you’re seeking iconic landmarks or hidden local treasures, you’re sure to find something to delight you.