I spotted the first one near the Odeon Bistro, just a few steps from Piazza della Signoria. A tiny arched window set into a stone wall, barely a foot tall, with a wooden shutter propped open. A man in an apron leaned out, handed a woman a paper cup of red wine, and took her coins. I had read about Florence’s buchette del vino — the historic wine holes — but seeing one in action felt like stepping into a secret that had been hiding in plain sight for centuries. During the COVID-19 pandemic, local businesses revived these windows for contact-free service, a practice that originally began during the 1629–1633 plague epidemic, according to Fine Dining Lovers. This guide covers where to find the remaining active wine holes in Florence, how they worked historically, and the street art that shares their hidden corners of the city. It is written for curious travelers who want to see a side of Florence that most guidebooks skip.
Over 180 wine holes exist in Florence today, with 149 surveyed inside the city walls alone.
Yes, the wine holes are real, they are still in use, and they are worth seeking out — but you have to know where to look and be okay with a little hunting. The payoff is a glass of wine served through a 400-year-old window.
History lovers
Solo travelers
Photography enthusiasts
What Are Florence’s Wine Holes, Really?
These small arched openings in the stone walls of Florence’s oldest buildings have a surprisingly practical origin story.
During the Renaissance, noble families and wine merchants built these tiny street-level windows to sell wine directly from their cellars. The design let them bypass middlemen and avoid municipal taxes on wine sales. The Medici family used them to manage their wealth and influence through direct estate-to-consumer sales, as noted by Smart Science Blog. Buyers would knock, a metal shovel would slide out to collect coins, and the wine would flow through a metal tube fed by gravity from a barrel inside.
During the plague of 1629–1633, the system became a public health measure. Coins were disinfected in vinegar before being handled, and customers filled their own flasks without any contact with the seller. The cultural association Buchette del Vino, founded in 2016, now works to safeguard and record these windows. They have surveyed 149 wine holes inside Florence’s walls, 24 outside the walls, and 93 outside Florence, with 10 removed and 180 total historically, according to Fine Dining Lovers.
There is no official public list of active wine holes. The Buchette del Vino association maintains a constantly updated map, but it is not always easy to find online. Your best bet is to ask at a local enoteca or keep your eyes on the lower walls of any building that looks older than 1700.
Where to Find Active Wine Holes in Florence Today
Not every wine hole is still in use, but a handful of businesses have brought them back to life.
Other businesses using wine holes include Osteria delle Belle Donne, La Buchetta Food&Wine, Le Botteghe di Donatello, Trattoria Osteria da Que’ Ganzi, Oibò, Johnny Bruschetta, Il Latini, Finisterrae, Osteria delle Brache, Babae, and Ristorante Buca Lapi, according to Fine Dining Lovers. Not all of these operate their windows daily — hours vary by season and whim.
Go between 5:00 PM and 7:00 PM, when the aperitivo crowd is out. Wine holes near Piazza della Signoria and the Oltrarno district are most likely to be open during these hours. Bring small bills — coins are easier to pass through the window.
How the Wine Holes Survived — and What Almost Wiped Them Out
The wine holes have faced two major threats in their long history.
Laws passed in the early 1900s restricted their use, and many were bricked up or repurposed as the city modernized. Then came the 1966 Arno flood, which killed 101 people and destroyed countless rare books and artworks. The flood damaged many of the cellars where the wine holes connected, and some were sealed permanently after the water receded, as reported by Fat Tire Tours. Hundreds of wine holes existed during the 1500s and 1600s, but today only around 180 remain, with 149 inside the city walls.
The COVID-19 pandemic gave the surviving windows a second life. Businesses that had never used their wine holes suddenly reopened them as a contact-free way to serve customers. The revival was not just practical — it became a small cultural phenomenon, with tourists and locals alike lining up for a glass of wine passed through a 400-year-old opening.
Some wine holes are purely decorative — bricked up and never coming back. Do not assume every arch you see is active. Look for a wooden shutter that opens outward, a small sign, or a chalkboard menu. If the window is flush with the wall and has no hardware, it is a relic, not a bar.
Florence’s Hidden Street Art: The Other Side of the Walls
While you are scanning walls for wine holes, you will start noticing something else: Florence has a surprisingly vibrant street art scene tucked into the same narrow alleys.
Most visitors associate Florence with Renaissance frescoes and marble statues, but the city also has a thriving contemporary street art culture. The Oltrarno district, especially around Via dei Serragli and Piazza Tasso, is covered in murals, stencils, and paste-ups. The artist Blub, known for his spray-painted portraits of political figures and celebrities, has several pieces scattered across the city. His work often appears on the same old stone walls that house wine holes, creating an accidental dialogue between Renaissance commerce and modern expression.
Another spot worth a detour is the area around the former Manifattura Tabacchi, a tobacco factory turned creative hub near the Cascine Park. The walls here are covered in large-scale murals by international artists. It is a 15-minute walk from the historic center, and it feels like a completely different city.
Combine a wine hole hunt with a street art walk. Start at Piazza della Signoria, head south across the Ponte Vecchio into the Oltrarno, and wander the streets between Via dei Serragli and Piazza Tasso. You will pass at least four active wine holes and a dozen murals. Give yourself two hours if you stop for photos and a glass of wine.
Wine Holes vs. Wine Bars: Which Is Right for You?
Both options have their place, but they serve very different travel styles.
| Wine Hole | Traditional Wine Bar | |
|---|---|---|
| Experience | Standing on the street, quick transaction | Sitting down, full menu, conversation |
| Wine selection | Usually 1–3 options, house wine | Extensive list, often by the glass or bottle |
| Cost | €3–€5 per glass | €6–€12 per glass |
| Best for | Novelty, photos, quick taste | Relaxed evening, food pairings, learning |
| Kid-friendly | Yes — kids love the window | Depends on the bar, usually fine early |
If you want a proper wine experience, head to Le Volpi e l’Uva near Ponte Vecchio or Enoteca Pitti Gola e Cantina near Palazzo Pitti. Both have excellent selections and knowledgeable staff. But if you want a story to tell, a wine hole is the better choice. It takes thirty seconds, costs pocket change, and leaves you with a photo that will make your friends ask, “Wait, where did you get that?”
- Wine holes are concentrated in the historic center and Oltrarno — focus your search there.
- Go between 5:00 PM and 7:00 PM for the best chance of finding an active window.
- Pair your wine hole hunt with a street art walk through the Oltrarno for a fuller experience.
Before You Go Wine Hole Hunting in Florence
Are the wine holes open every day?
No. Hours vary by business and season. Many operate only during aperitivo hours (roughly 5:00 PM to 8:00 PM), and some close entirely in winter. Check the Buchette del Vino association’s Instagram for updates.
Can I buy a bottle through a wine hole?
Usually not. Most serve single glasses or small cups. The original system was designed for bulk fills of personal flasks, but modern health regulations limit that practice. You will get a paper cup or a small plastic glass.
Is it worth hunting for wine holes if I do not drink wine?
Yes. Several wine holes serve gelato, coffee, and soft drinks. Cantina del Gelato and Vivoli both offer non-alcoholic options. The experience is about the window, not the alcohol.
Are the wine holes overrated?
Honestly, a little. They are tiny, not all are active, and you might walk past several without noticing. But the ones that are open are genuinely fun, and the history behind them is fascinating. Manage your expectations — this is a quirky side quest, not a main attraction.
Can I take photos through the wine holes?
Yes, and most staff expect it. Be polite, step aside after you order so others can see, and do not block the window for paying customers. A quick shot of the transaction is fine; a full photoshoot is not.
Why I Keep Thinking About Those Tiny Windows
I have been to Florence three times now, and I never noticed the wine holes until this last trip. That is the thing about this city — it rewards the slow look, the willingness to wander without a map, the habit of glancing at the base of walls instead of just the rooftops. The wine holes are not going to change your life. But they might change how you see a city you thought you already knew. For more ideas on what to eat and drink while you are exploring, check out this guide to Florence’s artisanal food and wine scene.
Sources and further reading
Fine Dining Lovers Editorial Staff. “Florence Reopens Ancient Wine Holes.” Fine Dining Lovers, 15 Aug 2020. 🔗
McCarthy, Anne. “5 Fascinating Facts About Florence’s ‘Wine Holes’.” Fat Tire Tours Blog. 🔗
“The Renaissance Revelation: How Florence’s Wine Windows Were Born.” Smart Science Blog. 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Explore Florence’s Storied Dishes and Farm-Fresh Ingredients — A deep dive into the traditional dishes and local markets that define Florentine cuisine.
Day Trips from Florence Beyond Wine Country — Ideas for getting out of the city, including hill towns and coastal escapes that pair well with a Florence itinerary.
Find the Best Florence Hotels for Your Dream Trip — A breakdown of neighborhoods and hotel styles to help you choose where to stay based on your travel style.