Baia Cannone is a free public beach near Portofino, reachable by foot, bus, or ferry, that offers some of the clearest water on the Ligurian coast without charging a cent for entry. This guide covers exactly how to reach it, what to bring, and what tradeoffs come with a spot this beautiful — it suits travelers who want a genuine local swimming spot over a serviced lido, and who don’t mind a bit of rocky terrain.
The beach sits along Via Duca degli Abruzzi 54, between Portofino and the smaller bay of Paraggi. Unlike the paid beach clubs that dominate much of the Ligurian Riviera, Baia Cannone remains completely free and public. That alone makes it one of the most appealing swimming spots in the area, but the tradeoff is minimal infrastructure — no toilets, no café, and no changing rooms. A single outdoor shower is the only amenity on site.
Can you visit Baia Cannone as a day trip from Portofino? Yes, easily. The walk from Portofino’s harbor takes about 10–15 minutes along the scenic Path of the Kiss. The beach is small and fills up fast, so arriving between 09:00 and 11:00 gives you the best chance at a good spot. Plan to bring everything you need for the day — water, snacks, and proper footwear.
Getting to Baia Cannone: Three Routes, One Beach
There are three ways to reach Baia Cannone, and your choice depends on where you’re staying and how much you want to spend. The most direct option is walking from Portofino’s center along the Path of the Kiss, a short coastal trail that connects the town to the beach. The path involves steep, narrow stone steps, so it’s not stroller-friendly and can be slippery after rain.
If you’re coming from Santa Margherita Ligure or Rapallo, the ferry is the most scenic option. Ferries run regularly during the summer season and drop you at Portofino’s harbor, from where you walk the same path. A bus from Santa Margherita Ligure to Portofino also works — the stop is a short walk from the beach entrance. Parking in Portofino costs around €8 per hour, which adds up fast, so the ferry or bus is the smarter choice for a full day at the beach.
| Route | Cost | Time from Santa Margherita | Best for |
|---|---|---|---|
| Walk from Portofino harbor | Free | 10–15 min walk | Travelers already in Portofino |
| Ferry from Rapallo / Santa Margherita | ~€8–12 one way | 20–30 min | Scenic approach, no parking hassle |
| Bus from Santa Margherita | ~€3 one way | 15–20 min + short walk | Budget travelers, families without strollers |
If you’re short on time, skip the bus and take the ferry — the views of the coastline from the water are worth the extra few euros. The walk from the bus stop to the beach is short but involves those same steep steps, so factor that in if you’re carrying heavy bags.
What to Expect on the Beach
Baia Cannone is a small, rocky cove, not a long stretch of sand. The shoreline is made up of smooth pebbles and rocks, and the water gets deep quickly. Water shoes are not optional here — the rocks are slippery, and the waves can be stronger than they look from above. I learned this the hard way on my first visit and spent the afternoon carefully picking my way across the stones.
The water clarity is exceptional. On calm days, visibility extends several meters, making it a good spot for snorkeling. There’s no lifeguard on duty, so keep an eye on children and weaker swimmers. The beach faces west, which means it catches the afternoon sun and stays warm until early evening.
Bring a dry bag. There’s nowhere secure to leave your things while you swim, and the rocks offer few flat surfaces. A dry bag lets you keep your phone, keys, and wallet with you in the water without worrying about splashes.
The beach is small — maybe 30 meters wide at its fullest — and it fills up quickly on weekends and during August. Arriving by 09:00 is the best strategy for securing a spot. By 11:00 on a sunny Saturday, you’ll be laying your towel on rocks rather than finding a clear patch of pebbles.
What to Bring (and What to Leave Behind)
Because Baia Cannone has no facilities, everything you need for the day has to come with you. That includes drinking water, food, sunscreen, and any entertainment. There are no shops or kiosks nearby — the closest place to buy supplies is in Portofino, which is a 10-minute walk back up the path.
Michael and I learned this the hard way when we brought Lily and Ethan for an afternoon swim. We packed light, assuming we could grab lunch nearby, and ended up hiking back to Portofino with two hungry kids. Now we bring a small cooler with sandwiches, fruit, and plenty of water — enough for at least four hours on the beach.
Baia Cannone Packing List
Value: Free entry, exceptional water quality, uncrowded on weekday mornings.
Limitation: No toilets, no shade, no food or drink for sale. Rocky shore requires water shoes.
Access: Steep steps from the Path of the Kiss. Not wheelchair or stroller accessible.
A good pair of water shoes makes the biggest difference in comfort. The rocks are smooth but uneven, and walking barefoot to the water’s edge is uncomfortable without them. A rash guard or UV-protective swim shirt is also useful — there’s no natural shade on the beach, and the sun reflects off the water intensely.
When to Visit Baia Cannone
The best time to visit is between late May and late September, when the water is warm enough for swimming and the ferry schedule is running at full capacity. June and September offer the best balance of warm weather and manageable crowds. July and August are peak season, and the beach can feel cramped by mid-morning.
Weekdays are significantly quieter than weekends. If your schedule allows, aim for a Tuesday, Wednesday, or Thursday visit. The early morning window from 09:00 to 11:00 is the sweet spot — the water is calm, the light is good for photos, and you’ll have your pick of spots on the rocks.
Watch the weather forecast. Strong winds from the south can create rough surf that makes swimming unsafe. The beach has no lifeguard, and the rocks become dangerously slippery when wet. If the forecast shows wind over 15 knots, consider a different day.
If you’re visiting in the off-season (October through April), the beach is still accessible, but the ferry schedule is reduced and the water is too cold for most swimmers. The walk itself is still worthwhile for the views, and you’ll likely have the cove to yourself.
Reader Questions About Baia Cannone
Is Baia Cannone suitable for children?
It depends on their age and swimming ability. The water gets deep quickly, and there’s no gradual entry like a sandy beach. Older children who are strong swimmers will enjoy the snorkeling. Toddlers and non-swimmers need constant supervision and water shoes.
Are there restaurants near Baia Cannone?
No restaurants are on the beach itself. The closest options are in Portofino, a 10–15 minute walk away. Plan to bring your own food and drinks for the day, or walk back to town for lunch and return afterward.
Can you rent umbrellas or chairs at Baia Cannone?
No rental services exist at this beach. It’s a completely free, unmanaged public space. Bring your own umbrella if you need shade, or plan to use a UV-protective tent. The rocks make standard beach umbrellas difficult to anchor.
How crowded does Baia Cannone get?
Very crowded on summer weekends and throughout August. The beach is small, and even 30 people can make it feel full. Weekday mornings in June or September are the least crowded times. Arriving after 11:00 on a weekend means you may not find a spot at all.
Is there parking near Baia Cannone?
No parking exists at the beach itself. The nearest parking is in Portofino, where rates run around €8 per hour. Most visitors arrive by ferry, bus, or on foot. If you drive, park in Santa Margherita Ligure and take the ferry or bus to Portofino.
Why Baia Cannone Stands Out on the Ligurian Coast
Most of the beaches near Portofino are private lidos that charge €20–40 per day for a sunbed and umbrella. Baia Cannone offers the same water and the same views for nothing. That freedom comes with responsibility — you carry your own supplies, navigate rocky terrain, and accept the lack of facilities. But for travelers who value authentic, uncommercialized swimming spots, that tradeoff is exactly the point.
If you’re planning a trip that includes both coastal and city experiences, Italy in September offers harvest festivals and antique markets that pair well with a late-season beach day at Baia Cannone.
Sources and further reading
🔗 Baia Cannone visitor guide and reviews
🔗 DJI Mini 4K — compact drone for coastal photography
🔗 Apple AirPods Max 2 — over-ear headphones for travel
Related reading on EmilyInItaly
Why skip Italy’s big three for Bologna’s porticos — an alternative city break that pairs well with a Ligurian coast trip.
A bike ride through Italy’s Adriatic regions — another way to experience Italy’s coastline at a slower pace.
Rome’s boutique hotels offer intimate stays — for travelers combining a beach day with a city itinerary.