If you’re dreaming of that iconic Italian summer, the island of Capri absolutely delivers. It’s a place that draws visitors back year after year, and I finally understood why during a recent visit. After experiencing it during a quieter season before, this trip was our first taste of Capri in its full summer glory. It turned out that embracing the island’s renowned “Dolce Vita” is entirely possible, even with its popularity, especially if you know how to navigate the crowds.
Discovering Capri’s Summer Magic
Capri is undeniably a quintessential summer destination in Italy. To truly savor it, managing visitor numbers is key. Before the pandemic, the island welcomed millions annually, with most choosing the summer months. While the last few years offered a brief respite, the crowds have returned in full force, making daytime exploration a challenge.
Our strategy for a more relaxed experience was simple: embrace the early mornings and late afternoons for exploring the towns. For the peak hours, roughly 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., we found ourselves drawn to the allure of the beach and the sea. This rhythm allowed us to enjoy the island’s beauty without feeling overwhelmed.
However, the most effective way to ensure a truly fabulous experience in Capri, we discovered, is to choose your accommodation wisely. A well-placed hotel can be your sanctuary from the bustle.
Elegant Stays and Island Charm
A Renowned Hotel Reimagined
We chose to stay at Hotel La Palma, a much-anticipated opening from the Oetker Collection. Housed in Capri’s historic first hotel, originally built in 1822, the property has undergone a stunning renovation by designer Francis Sultana. It’s conveniently located just a short walk from the island’s famous Piazzetta, and its opening has created quite a buzz.
The hotel features 50 beautifully appointed rooms and suites. Culinary delights await at its two restaurants and bars, curated by esteemed chef Gennaro Esposito. For relaxation, there’s a luxurious spa offering treatments with Santa Maria Novella products. An inviting outdoor pool, complete with aquamarine and white striped loungers, offers lovely views of the town. And, of course, the much-talked-about beach club in Marina Piccola adds another layer of luxury.
This opening also signifies Oetker Collection’s debut in Italy, a notable expansion for a brand known for iconic properties like Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc and Le Bristol. Francis Sultana, celebrated for his work on private residences, has brought his signature artistic flair and meticulous attention to detail to La Palma. The lobby showcases pieces from his Marie-François collection, and even the bathroom fixtures, like the bespoke taps featuring a palm tree motif, speak to his design philosophy.
Exceptional Service and Dining
What truly sets this hotel apart, though, is the genuinely friendly and accommodating service. Dinners at Gennaro’s Restaurant were a highlight, where we sampled signature dishes like zucchini tartare with dried-fruit mayonnaise and delicate zucchini-flower chips. The sole meunière, served with sautéed escarole, olives, and anchovies, was equally memorable.
We also appreciated the flexibility of the staff. One evening, after enjoying pasta for lunch at the beach club, the bar manager happily accommodated our off-menu request for a burger and a club sandwich for dinner. It’s these thoughtful touches that make a stay feel personal and special.
The following day, after a delightful lunch of classic Caprese salad, fritto misto, lobster linguini, and refreshing lemon sorbet, we retreated to the exclusive lounge chairs reserved for La Palma guests. Relaxing on the beach, with the iconic Faraglioni sea stacks as our backdrop, felt utterly serene. While the adjacent public beach was quite crowded, our reserved spot offered a peaceful escape.
Exploring Beyond the Crowds
Discovering Hidden Angles of the Island
To truly appreciate Capri’s captivating landscapes and charm, venturing away from the most frequented areas is essential. We found that engaging with local guides offered invaluable insights and led us to discover quieter, more authentic experiences.
Our guide, Roberta, a Capri native, led us away from the busy streets surrounding the Piazzetta. She introduced us to the picturesque Giardini di Augusto, a beautiful public garden adorned with flowers and statues, offering breathtaking views down towards Via Krupp, a historic pathway carved into the cliffs. She also pointed out the workshop where Carthusia, a renowned local perfumer, creates its signature scents.
Roberta also took us to Anacapri, the town located on the island’s other side. It provided a glimpse into a more laid-back side of island life. As she mentioned, Capri takes on a special ambiance after the day-trippers have departed.
This sentiment was echoed by Federico Alvarez de Toledo, the proprietor of Eco Capri, a concept shop featuring chic resort wear and home goods. He confirmed that many regular visitors to Capri intentionally avoid the main town center during peak daylight hours. For him, the late afternoon, as people return from the beach and before they prepare for dinner, is the ideal time for shopping and experiencing the town’s atmosphere.
A Coastal Perspective
One of the most memorable ways we explored Capri’s natural beauty and unique coastline was by circumnavigating the island by boat. This perspective offers incredible views and access to secluded spots.
We arranged a private boat tour with a knowledgeable guide who shared entertaining stories about the island’s history and landmarks. We saw the famous Blue Grotto from the water, observing the long queues of visitors waiting to enter. Our guide expertly navigated us to a more secluded grotto, where we had the opportunity to swim in the crystal-clear waters.
As we sailed, we passed by notable sights, including the lighthouse, the exclusive La Fontelina beach club, and Villa Malaparte, a modernist architectural marvel famously featured in Jean-Luc Godard’s film Le Mépris. It’s a side of Capri that feels exclusive and deeply connected to its stunning natural environment.
Gardens and Culinary Delights
Our exploration continued inland with a visit to the Villa San Michele. This fascinating museum is housed in the former residence of Swedish doctor Axel Munthe, showcasing his extensive collection of art and antiquities within the villa and its beautiful gardens. A highlight is the panoramic viewpoint, where a sphinx statue stands guard. According to local lore, touching its rear end for good luck is a charming tradition.
Nearby, we discovered a tranquil garden tended by Holly Star and Gianluca D’Esposito. This husband-and-wife team, who once owned a restaurant on the island, now offer engaging cooking classes and gelato workshops, alongside private dining experiences. They plan to expand their garden space, offering visitors an even deeper connection to the island’s natural beauty and its rich culinary heritage.
Alternative Accommodations
A Charming Boutique Option
For our final night, we relocated to Il Capri, a relatively new boutique hotel that opened in March. Housed in a striking neo-Gothic pink palazzo, it’s just a couple of blocks from the bustling Piazzetta. Created by a Neapolitan-Parisian couple, Graziella Buontempo and Arnaud Lacombe, this 21-room hotel offers a more relaxed and accessible alternative to some of the island’s more high-end properties.
The atmosphere here is youthful and welcoming, with light bamboo and wicker furnishings, personal family photos, and artwork from Buontempo’s private collection. After settling in, we headed to the rooftop restaurant, Vesuvio, for dinner. The eggplant parmigiana and ravioli Caprese, enjoyed with spectacular views, were a perfect end to our culinary journey. I only regretted not having more time to enjoy the rooftop pool.
Is Capri worth visiting in summer?
Absolutely, with strategic planning. The island’s allure is undeniable during the summer months, offering a quintessential Italian coastal experience. By focusing on early mornings, late afternoons, and seaside activities during peak hours, you can avoid the most intense crowds.
Choosing your accommodation wisely is also crucial. Hotels with their own beach clubs or those slightly removed from the main tourist hubs can offer a more serene base. Booking boat tours or private excursions can provide a unique perspective and access to less crowded areas.
Making the Most of Your Visit
Knowing how to navigate Capri during its busiest season transforms the experience. It’s about finding those moments of tranquility amidst the vibrancy. The island’s beauty, from its dramatic coastline to its charming towns, is something truly special.
We found that embracing a slower pace, especially in the early mornings and late evenings, allowed us to soak in the atmosphere of Capri without feeling rushed. Even simple pleasures, like enjoying a gelato while watching the sunset or taking a leisurely stroll through quieter lanes, become treasured memories.
My husband and I are already anticipating our next visit, perhaps inspired by the legend of the sphinx for a bit of good luck to join the island’s devoted habitués. Capri has a way of capturing your heart, and we are certainly under its spell.