When the world was being shaped, Liguria seemed to get an extra serving of stunning coastline. This six-mile stretch along the Italian Riviera, nestled between Levanto and La Spezia, is truly a masterpiece. It’s home to five picture-perfect villages clinging to dramatic cliffs, a coastline that takes your breath away, and over 70 miles of hiking trails through land protected as a national park. It’s no wonder this area, known as Cinque Terre, is one of Italy’s most sought-after destinations.
Navigating the Villages
I remember my first visit, expecting serene beauty, but finding the trains packed and the narrow village streets teeming with people. It’s a testament to how special this place is, that even with the crowds, it captivates. The key, I’ve learned, is to stay overnight. When the day-trippers depart, a different, more peaceful Cinque Terre emerges. Staying in Riomaggiore or Manarola, the two southernmost villages, offers a unique advantage: after hours access to the Via dell’Amore, a cliffside path that reopened in 2024. It’s a special experience to walk it with fewer people around.
The villages themselves are quite small, more like hamlets than towns. Accommodations can be cozy, and not always with breakfast included. For those who prefer more traditional hotel amenities, looking slightly outside the immediate five villages is a good idea. La Spezia, Levanto, and Portovenere are all easily connected by boat, and La Spezia and Levanto also have train access. These offer a more conventional base while still being close to the magic of Cinque Terre.
To truly escape the peak season crush, I always suggest aiming for weekdays and shoulder months. April, May, late September, and October offer beautiful weather without the intense summer crowds. Most visitors stick to the main five villages—Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare—but venturing beyond these can reveal a quieter side. Hiking trails other than the popular Sentiero Azzurro, or taking a bus up to hamlets like Volastra or San Bernardino, offer stunning vistas without the throngs.
And the wine! The locals have been cultivating vines on these steep, almost sheer cliffs for centuries. Participating in a cliffside wine tasting and sampling the unique Cinque Terre DOC blend, with its distinct sea-salted notes, is an experience I highly recommend. It’s a taste of tradition and resilience.
Portovenere Charm
Just south of the core five villages lies Portovenere, often considered an honorary sixth member of Cinque Terre. It’s a UNESCO-listed treasure, its pastel buildings creating a picturesque scene overlooking the Gulf of Poets. Staying at the Grand Hotel Portovenere here offers a luxurious retreat. Once a 17th-century monastery, it now provides elegant suites with captivating views of the village and the sea. Dining at Restaurant Palmaria on its veranda, with a bowl of pasta, is a perfect way to unwind after a day of exploring, or even before you head out to the villages themselves via boat.
Monterosso Beaches
For those who love the sea and sand, Monterosso al Mare is the place to be. It’s unique in Liguria for having a proper sandy beach. Hotel Marina, a family-run establishment in the older part of town, offers a delightful blend of accessibility to the Cinque Terre wonders and the relaxed vibe of a seaside resort. The rooms are charming, some with frescoed walls and exposed stone, and if you’re lucky, you might snag a room with a terrace. Waking up early here, before the crowds arrive, allows for a peaceful exploration of Monterosso’s charms.
Levanto Vistas
A short train ride north of Cinque Terre is Levanto. This resort town, with its pebble beaches, is an excellent gateway for exploring the national park. Park Hotel Argento offers a wonderful base, with a heated pool and lovely sea views. The hotel is designed to evoke a Ligurian village rather than a generic resort, with its collection of subtly distinct buildings. Its spa offers a serene escape with an Asian-inspired feel, and the restaurant deck is a fantastic spot for an alfresco dinner, featuring delicious risottos and fresh seafood dishes.
Portofino Glamour
Slightly further afield, but worth noting for its sheer Riviera glamour, is Portofino. The Belmond Splendido hotel, a former Benedictine monastery, sits perched above the famous harbour. It’s the ideal spot if you want to experience the Cinque Terre villages during the day and then return to a world of sophisticated Italian elegance. Imagine waking up to views of yachts bobbing on the Ligurian Sea from your balcony, surrounded by bougainvillea. The hotel’s spa offers indulgent treatments, and they can even arrange boat trips to nearby attractions like San Fruttuoso Abbey.
Agriturismo Tranquility
For a different kind of experience, consider an agriturismo. Buranco, located in the hills just outside Monterosso, offers a tranquil vineyard escape. Nestled in the landscape, this property provides simple apartments surrounded by vines, lemon groves, and olive trees. It’s a place for exploring the grounds and enjoying the peaceful atmosphere. The on-site restaurant serves excellent local dishes, including the famous anchovies of Monterosso, and offers wine tastings. Be prepared for a steep, though rewarding, walk back down to the village.
Historical Stays
In Levanto, La Madonnetta offers a unique stay in a distinguished historical property: an ancient chapel. The rooms blend old and new, creating a stylish yet comfortable atmosphere. Some rooms offer views towards Levanto and the sea, but even if yours doesn’t, the sun deck’s hot tub provides a perfect panorama. The breakfasts here are a highlight, featuring regional specialties. A complimentary shuttle to the train station makes getting around fuss-free.
La Spezia Convenience
If you’re looking for an affordable and convenient base, Allegroitalia La Spezia 5 Terre is perched on a hill above the city, offering modern rooms with panoramic views of the Gulf of Poets. The rooftop is a great spot for a sunset drink. For easy access within La Spezia itself, CDH La Spezia is a well-located four-star hotel with convenient entrances at different levels, acknowledging the town’s steep terrain. Its proximity to the station and a hearty buffet breakfast make it practical for exploring.
Quiet Bays
For those seeking peace without being too far from the action, Hotel della Baia in Le Grazie is an excellent choice. Located in a quiet bay between La Spezia and Portovenere, it offers simple, charming rooms and a pool overlooking the water. It’s a peaceful village where you can stroll around the marina and take a ferry to Portovenere and then on to the Cinque Terre villages, avoiding the need to haul luggage through narrow alleys.
Manarola’s Heart
Manarola is the quintessential Cinque Terre village for many, with its colorful houses stacked against steep, terraced hillsides. Accommodations here can be as steep as the terrain, but B&B Da Baranin offers a warmly hosted experience. Run by two sisters, it features simply decorated rooms, some with balconies, offering views of the sky, slopes, or sea. While there are no on-site dining options beyond breakfast, stepping out onto its terrace for a meal of local cheeses, bread, and pastries is a delightful way to start the day in this iconic village.
Monterosso Dining
Porto Roca in Monterosso al Mare is another option for those who appreciate great food and stunning settings. Its dining terrace, La Terrazza, curves along the cliff edge, offering spectacular views. The pool, set high above the sea, is also a major draw. Seafood is the focus here, making it a popular spot for both guests and visitors looking for a memorable meal with a view.