When the most beautiful coastlines were being distributed, Italy’s Cinque Terre was undoubtedly at the front of the line. This six-mile stretch of dramatic cliffs between Levanto and La Spezia in Liguria is a photographer’s dream. It’s home to five vibrant, cliff-hugging villages, each with a unique charm, a breathtaking coastline, and over 70 miles of hiking trails. The national park status helps keep this area remarkably pristine, but its undeniable beauty also draws significant crowds.
I’ve learned that visiting during the peak summer months can be overwhelming, with villages and trains packed. To truly experience the magic, staying overnight is key. As the day-trippers depart, a sense of tranquility settles over the villages. If you’re staying in Riomaggiore or Manarola, the two southernmost villages, you might even get exclusive access to the Via dell’Amore, a stunning cliffside footpath that reopened in 2024.
It’s important to remember these villages are essentially hamlets, so accommodations can be quite compact, and breakfast may not always be included. For a more hotel-like experience, consider staying in nearby La Spezia, Levanto, or Portovenere. These towns are well-connected to Cinque Terre by both boat and train, offering a different perspective and potentially fewer crowds.
Navigating the Cliffs
When I visit popular spots like Cinque Terre, I always try to shift my perspective. Instead of sticking to the most famous routes, I look for quieter experiences. Swapping weekends for weekdays and aiming for shoulder seasons like April, May, late September, or October can make a world of difference. While most visitors stay within the five main villages—Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterosso al Mare—Venturing beyond them offers a different, more peaceful world.
I’ve found that exploring trails beyond the main Sentiero Azzurro, the primary network connecting the villages, leads to incredible discoveries. Taking a bus to the clifftop hamlets of Volastra or San Bernardino rewards you with truly breathtaking views that feel a world away from the bustling coastal path. The locals here have been cultivating vines on these near-sheer cliffs for centuries, and seeking out a cliffside wine tasting, perhaps of the local Cinque Terre DOC blend with its distinctive sea-salted notes, is an unforgettable experience.
Day trips can sometimes feel rushed due to crowds, but the longer I spend in a place, and the further I get from the main transport hubs, the more I connect with its essence. Cinque Terre, despite its popularity, is undeniably special. Liguria itself is a stunning region, a carpet of rocky beauty winding down Italy’s northwestern coast, and Cinque Terre is its most picturesque gem.
Portovenere Charm
Just south of the famous five, Portovenere offers a wonderful alternative. It’s sometimes referred to as the “sixth village” for good reason. This UNESCO-listed town, nestled beside the broad Gulf of Poets, captivates with its pastel-colored buildings cascading down to the sea. It has a serene atmosphere, and boats provide easy access to the Cinque Terre villages.
The Grand Hotel Portovenere, a former 17th-century monastery, now exudes a luxurious, clubby feel. Its suites offer mesmerizing views of the village and the Gulf. Dining at Restaurant Palmaria on its veranda, especially after a day of exploring, is a delightful way to unwind, with delicious pasta dishes being a highlight.
Monterosso’s Beaches
For those who love the sea, Monterosso al Mare offers a different vibe. It boasts a rare sandy beach for Liguria, making it a perfect spot for a beach break. Here, two worlds converge: the heart of Cinque Terre and a charming, dinky seaside resort.
The family-run Hotel Marina is a great base. The rooms are simple and painted in pastel colors, with some featuring exposed stone. Requesting a room with a terrace when booking can add to the experience, though they can’t always be guaranteed. I’ve found that sometimes the simplest requests lead to the most memorable moments.
Levanto’s Vistas
A short train ride from Cinque Terre, Levanto is a resort town perfect for coastal activities, with its surf, sand, and pebbles. Park Hotel Argento is an excellent choice for basing yourself here. Its heated pool offers glimpses of the sea, and the hotel itself is designed to evoke a Ligurian village rather than a standard resort.
The rooms are unfussy yet smart, and the subtly Asian-inspired spa is a tranquil escape. Dining on the restaurant’s deck is a treat, with incredible risottos and local specialties like grilled prawns with Ligurian herbs. I always appreciate hotels that blend comfort with local character.
Portofino Glamour
Slightly further afield, but worth considering for a dose of Riviera luxury, is Splendido, A Belmond Hotel in Portofino. This iconic hotel, a former Benedictine monastery, offers unparalleled views over Portofino’s picturesque harbor. It’s the perfect place if you want to explore the Cinque Terre villages during the day and indulge in Italian glamor by night.
The hotel boasts stunning interiors with botanical frescoes and sun-washed pastel hues. Dining at La Terrazza provides incredible seafood pastas and local wines on a candlelit terrace. The Dior Spa offers unique treatments, and for a special excursion, you can take a private motorboat to San Fruttuoso Abbey for a swim beneath its ancient cloisters. Even with all this, the hotel can also arrange Cinque Terre tours and wine tastings.
Agriturismo Escape
For a blend of coast and countryside, Buranco in Monterosso al Mare is an exceptional agriturismo. Tucked away in the hills above the village, up a cobbled path, this tranquil vineyard offers a peaceful retreat. It features simple apartments, some with kitchens and terraces overlooking the vines. The real draw here is the expansive vineyard landscape, complete with lemon groves and olive trees.
The restaurant, overlooking the grounds, serves top-notch local dishes, including Monterosso’s famous anchovies and risotto with homegrown lemons. Wine tastings are also available. Just be prepared for a steep, though short, walk back down to the village. I find these countryside retreats offer a different, grounding perspective on the region.
Historical Haverings
In Levanto, La Madonnetta offers a unique stay in a distinguished historical property – an ancient chapel overlooking the Gulf of Levanto. The rooms artfully blend old and new, with wooden furniture, modern seating, and pops of color. Some rooms offer sea views, but the glorious sundeck, complete with a hot tub, provides a panoramic vista for all guests.
The breakfast is a highlight, often served on the sundeck and featuring regional specialties like cheese from the Val di Vara and local quiches. A complimentary shuttle to and from the train station makes exploring car-free a breeze.
La Spezia Options
La Spezia, while not one of the Cinque Terre villages, serves as a convenient gateway. Allegroitalia La Spezia 5 Terre, perched on a hill above the port, offers modern rooms with panoramic views of the city and the Gulf of Poets from its hexagonal tower block. The friendly staff are a definite plus, and enjoying a sunset drink on the rooftop is a must.
For a quieter option while still being close to the action, Hotel della Baia in Le Grazie is a lovely choice. This small hotel in a peaceful bay between La Spezia and Portovenere offers simple, retro-style rooms and a pool overlooking the water. You can easily catch a ferry from here to Portovenere and then onward to Cinque Terre.
CDH La Spezia offers practical convenience. Its standout feature is its accessible lift system, a real benefit in the steep Ligurian towns. With nifty entrances at both the top and bottom of the building, it’s also an easy 15-minute walk to the train station, making it easy to start your Cinque Terre adventures. The ample buffet breakfast ensures you’re fueled up for the day.
Manarola’s Embrace
Manarola, with its vertical dollop of colorful dwellings clinging to the slopes above the sea, truly encapsulates the beauty of Cinque Terre for many. Lodgings can be as charmingly compact as the terrain is steep.
B&B Da Baranin, run by sisters Silvia and Sara, offers stylish, pared-down accommodations. The stone-plain rooms, varying in size, often provide lovely views of the sky, slopes, or sea. While there’s no restaurant on-site, breakfast served in your room or on the terrace is a delightful spread of local cheese, bread, and pastries. I always find that accommodations run by locals offer a special touch.
Monterosso’s Culinary Delights
For food lovers, Porto Roca in Monterosso al Mare is a prime destination, even if you’re just visiting for a meal. The dining terrace, La Terrazza, curves along the cliff’s edge, offering spectacular views that rival the cliff-top pool. Seafood is the star here, making it a perfect spot to savor the freshest catches.
When exploring Cinque Terre, remember to embrace the slower pace and allow yourself time to truly soak in the surroundings. The journey between the villages, whether by train, boat, or on foot, is as much a part of the experience as the destination itself. Always keep an eye out for local flavors and hidden viewpoints; they’re often the most rewarding discoveries.