I’m standing on the black sand of Maronti Bay, watching a chef bury a tray of chicken and potatoes directly into the steaming ground. The heat rising from the volcanic sand is intense enough to cook a full meal, and the smell of garlic and herbs mixing with the sea air is something I still think about months later. Ischia, the largest island in the Bay of Naples, is home to over 100 natural thermal springs, more than any other island in the Mediterranean, and that geothermal energy shapes everything here — from the spas to the dinner plate.
Ischia has more than 100 natural thermal springs, making it one of the most geothermally active wellness destinations in Europe.
Ischia is the Italian island you visit when you want the beauty of Capri without the price tag, and the relaxation of a thermal spa without the stuffiness. It’s less polished, more real, and honestly, more my speed.
Wellness travelers
Families who want slow days
Foodies who love a cooking show
This guide covers the thermal parks, the volcanic cooking tradition, the best beaches, and the practical logistics you need to know before you go. I visited with my husband Michael and our two kids, Lily and Ethan, and I’ll tell you what worked and what didn’t.
Why Ischia’s thermal waters are different from anything else in Italy
The volcanic activity under the island heats the groundwater to temperatures that can reach 194°F at the source, creating a natural spa system that has been used for over two millennia.
The Etruscans and Romans built baths here, and Pliny the Elder wrote about the healing properties of the water. The minerals — iodine, bromide, potassium, and calcium — are what give the water its reputation for joint relief, skin renewal, and detoxification. You can access these waters in three main ways: a full-scale thermal park like Poseidon Gardens or Negombo, a rustic day-spa like Terme di Cavascura, or a free public cove like Baia di Sorgeto.
At Baia di Sorgeto, the water near the shore can hit 91°C. Wade out a few feet and the Tyrrhenian Sea cools it to a comfortable bath temperature. Bring water shoes — the rocks are sharp and the algae makes them slippery.
Eating dinner cooked by volcanic sand at Maronti Bay
The fumaroles on the southern shore heat the sand to 100°C, and locals have been using that heat to cook food for generations.
At Chalet Ferdinando a Mare and Ristorante Emanuela, you can watch chefs bury trays of chicken, potatoes, octopus, and mussels directly into the steaming sand. The cooking process takes about 40 minutes, and the result is incredibly tender because the heat is moist and even. This isn’t a tourist gimmick — many local families cook this way at least once a year, especially in summer.
The signature dish of the island is coniglio all’Ischitana, a slow-cooked rabbit stew with tomatoes, white wine, and herbs. The best version I had was at Trattoria il Focolare in the hills above Faiano. The restaurant is tiny, with maybe six tables, and the owner’s grandmother was in the kitchen. For a farm-to-table experience with a view, Azienda Agricola Ruffano sits on a cliff above Baia di Sorgeto and grows most of what it serves.
The sand cooking requires insider knowledge to avoid burns. Only eat at restaurants that specialize in this technique — don’t try it yourself on a public beach. The steam vents can be unpredictable.
Getting to Ischia and getting around
There is no airport on Ischia. Ferries from Naples are the only way to reach the island, and the type of ferry you choose changes your arrival experience.
From Naples, you have two main options. A hydrofoil costs around €24 and takes about 50 minutes. A regular ferry costs around €17 and takes about 1.5 hours. The main operators are Caremar, Alilauro, and SNAV. I recommend the hydrofoil if you’re prone to seasickness — the Bay of Naples can get choppy, and the ferry rocks more.
Once you’re on the island, public buses connect the main towns, but they run on island time. Renting a scooter gives you the most freedom, but the roads are narrow, steep, and sometimes unpaved. We rented a small car and it was fine, but parking in Forio and Ischia Porto is a headache in high season.
Cash is still king in many small shops and restaurants on Ischia. ATMs are available in the main towns, but don’t expect to pay with card at a beachside bar or a family-run trattoria.
Ischia vs. Capri: which island should you choose?
This is the question I get most often from readers planning a Bay of Naples trip, and the answer depends entirely on what you want from a day — or a week.
| Factor | Ischia | Capri |
|---|---|---|
| Vibe | Laid-back, local, wellness-focused | Glamorous, high-end, see-and-be-seen |
| Cost | Moderate — hotels from €120/night | High — hotels from €250/night |
| Beaches | Volcanic sand, thermal coves | Pebble beaches, rocky cliffs |
| Best for | Relaxation, spas, food, families | Shopping, nightlife, day-trippers |
| Crowds | Busy in August, quiet in shoulder season | Packed year-round, especially with cruise ships |
I’ve written about Capri’s newest hotel, La Palma, and I love Capri for a splurge. But for a week with kids, Ischia wins every time. The pace is slower, the prices are lower, and you don’t feel like you’re competing for space on every beach.
- Book a thermal park for a full day — Negombo opens at 8:30 AM and is quietest before 11 AM.
- Eat at a sand-cooking restaurant on Maronti Bay at least once; Chalet Ferdinando a Mare is the most reliable.
- Stay 3 to 4 nights minimum — anything less and you’ll spend more time on ferries than soaking.
Ischia travel questions I wish I had answered before I went
When is the best time to visit Ischia?
Late April through early June and September through early October are ideal. The weather is warm, the crowds are thin, and many hotels drop their high-season rates. July and August are hot, crowded, and expensive.
November through March is quiet and local, but many thermal parks and hotels close for the season. If you go in winter, call ahead to confirm what’s open.
Is Ischia worth visiting if I don’t care about spas?
Yes, but you’ll miss the main draw. The volcanic cooking, the hiking up Mount Epomeo, and the Castello Aragonese are all worth the trip on their own. But the thermal waters are what make Ischia unique.
If you have zero interest in hot springs, you might prefer a day trip to Procida instead — it’s smaller, quieter, and doesn’t revolve around wellness.
Is Ischia overrated or overrun with tourists?
In August, yes. The beaches are packed, the ferry queues are long, and the thermal parks feel like water parks. Outside of August, it’s manageable.
The island has around 60,000 residents, and tourism is concentrated in Forio and Ischia Porto. Head to the southern coast around Sant’Angelo and you’ll find a much quieter experience.
Can I visit Ischia as a day trip from Naples?
Technically yes, but I wouldn’t recommend it. The ferry takes 50 minutes each way, and you’ll lose at least two hours to transit. You’ll have time for one thermal park and a quick lunch, but you won’t experience the island’s rhythm.
Stay overnight if you can. Even one night changes the pace completely.
What should I pack for Ischia?
Reef-safe sunscreen, water shoes, a reusable water bottle, and a light cover-up for evenings. The sun is strong even in spring, and the volcanic sand gets hot.
If you plan to hike Mount Epomeo, bring sturdy shoes and a hat. The trail is steep and exposed in sections.
Why Ischia stays with you longer than most Italian islands
I keep coming back to that moment on Maronti Bay, watching the steam rise from the sand while Ethan asked if the chicken was “taking a bath.” It’s the kind of place where the landscape itself does something — heats your food, warms your skin, grows wine in volcanic soil. That’s not something you can manufacture, and it’s not something you forget. If you’re planning a trip to the Bay of Naples and want to balance the chaos of the Amalfi Coast with something slower, I’d point you toward how I plan day trips in Italy — and then tell you to book three nights on Ischia.
Sources and further reading
Broken Wheel Adventures. “Why Ischia is Italy’s Best Kept Secret.” 🔗
Travel Atlas. “Discover Ischia, Italy’s hidden gem.” 2026. 🔗
BBC Travel. “Ischia: The Italian Isle where locals cook in volcanic sand.” 2025. 🔗
AFAR. “Travel guide to Ischia, Italy’s hot springs island.” 🔗
Related reading on Emily in Italy
Escape crowds in Bologna, Italy’s food capital — A guide to eating well without the tourist markup, perfect if you love Ischia’s food scene and want more.
Venice’s pasta revelation — One dish changed how I think about Venetian cooking, and it pairs well with the slow-food ethos of Ischia.
Packing for Rome in January with Emily Carter — Practical packing advice that applies to Ischia’s cooler months too.
Florence’s Dante: shaping Italy’s language — A cultural deep dive for travelers who want context beyond the beaches.