You absolutely must visit Ischia, a stunning island off the coast of Naples. It offers a wonderful blend of chic modern touches and a deeply authentic Italian feel, unlike some of its busier neighbors. The island is like a perfectly hidden spot, offering so much more than just beautiful beaches.
Exploring Ischia Ponte
One of the first places you should go is Ischia Ponte, home to the impressive Castello Aragonese. This historic castle, with its ramps and courtyards, feels like stepping back in time. It’s easy to spend a good few hours here, just soaking in the centuries of history. The views from the top, looking out towards the sea and even seeing Capri in the distance, are truly breathtaking.
Inside the castle complex, you’ll find the Cattedrale dell’ Assunta. The frescoes here are remarkable. But what really left an impression on me was the story of the ritual at the Convent of Santa Maria della Consolazione. It’s a stark reminder of historical practices, and after seeing the crypt, you truly appreciate the fresh sea air outside.
The Healing Waters of Ischia
Ischia is famous for its natural thermal springs, a gift from the volcanic island at its heart. These waters have been used for their therapeutic properties for ages, and experiencing them firsthand is incredible. Many hotels and spas are built right over these springs, harnessing the natural heat and minerals.
I had the chance to try a mud treatment at the Mezzatorre Hotel and Thermal Spa, which sits perched above Forio. The process was deeply relaxing. Being covered in warm, mineral-rich mud and then showering off to feel completely revitalized was amazing. After the mud treatment, I spent time in their pools, each with different temperatures, feeling my muscles unwind.
The area around Sant’ Angelo is known for its exceptionally hot beach. Locals apparently cook eggs and even rabbits in pits dug into the sand due to the earth’s heat. It’s a wild and fascinating aspect of the island’s geothermal activity.
Thermal Pools by the Sea
A highlight for me was visiting Sorgeto. This is a natural spot right on the shoreline where hot thermal springs bubble up and mix with the sea. You can swim from the boat into the cool ocean and then make your way to the naturally heated rock pools. It’s a unique and invigorating experience, especially after a boat trip along the coast.
Charming Villages to Discover
Beyond the main sights, Ischia is dotted with lovely villages that are perfect for leisurely exploration. Forio is a lively town with a good selection of bars and restaurants, and it’s also where you’ll find the beautiful La Mortella gardens.
Sant’ Angelo is a particularly picturesque fishing village. It’s a delightful place to wander through the narrow streets, see the boats bobbing in the harbor, and enjoy the authentic island atmosphere. You can feel the traditional rhythm of life here, with simple bars and harbors that still welcome local fishing boats.
Ischia Ponte, as mentioned, is the historic heart with its castle, but it also offers charming streets to explore and excellent places to eat. Casamicciola is another village worth noting, though it has experienced recent challenges, it remains a part of the island’s fabric.
Gardens and Landscapes
The botanical gardens of La Mortella in Forio are an absolute must-see. Created by Susana Walton, the wife of composer William Walton, these gardens are a masterpiece. They are bursting with exotic plants and flowers from around the world, set in a beautiful valley that benefits from the island’s mild climate.
Wandering through La Mortella feels like stepping into another world. There are water features, sculptures, and quiet corners perfect for reflection. It’s a place where you can truly connect with nature and appreciate the artistry of garden design. I could have easily spent an entire day lost in its beauty.
Hiking Mount Epomeo
For those who enjoy a bit of activity, hiking up Mount Epomeo, the island’s highest peak, is highly recommended. The climb offers rewarding panoramic views, and the landscape changes as you ascend, with wildflowers blooming in late spring.
Culinary Delights of Ischia
The food on Ischia is a real treat, focusing on fresh, local ingredients. Being an island, seafood is naturally a star of the menu, but you’ll also find delicious regional specialties.
I had a fantastic seafood lunch at Le Fumarole da Nicola, a family-run place near Sant’ Angelo. The calamari and locally caught sea bass were wonderfully fresh. Dining right by the sea, with the gentle sound of waves, made the meal even more special. It’s these simple, delicious meals that really make a trip memorable.
For a more casual bite, especially after a day of exploring, I found a great spot in Ischia Ponte called Coco. It’s popular with locals and tourists alike, serving authentic dishes at reasonable prices. Their seasonal offerings are always a good choice.
If you find yourself hiking up Mount Epomeo, a stop at La Grotta di Fiore is essential. They serve delicious bruschetta and the island’s signature dish, rabbit, in a rustic setting.
Experiencing the Coast by Boat
Exploring the coastline of Ischia by boat is an experience I highly recommend. It offers a different perspective of the island’s dramatic cliffs, hidden coves, and charming harbors.
My captain, Giuseppe Puzella, who runs Nestori Yachting, showed me some of the most secluded and beautiful parts of the coast. We passed O’Vagnitiello, a stunning bay with clear water, and San Pancrazio with its green grotto. It’s on these quieter stretches, with only the cry of seabirds for company, that you truly feel the island’s untamed beauty.
Going out on the water is a fantastic way to tailor your experience. You can ask to stop at specific spots you’ve heard about or simply cruise along and take in the scenery. It felt like a much more personal and flexible way to see the island compared to larger tours.
A Family Moment on the Water
One afternoon, Michael and I took Lily and Ethan out on a boat trip along the coast. Seeing their faces light up as we sped across the turquoise water, pointing out different rock formations and tiny beaches, was wonderful. Ethan was particularly fascinated by the way the waves splashed against the hull, and Lily enjoyed spotting colorful fish through the clear water. It was a simple, joyful experience that highlighted how Ischia can be enjoyed by the whole family.
Literary Connections
Ischia has long been a muse for writers, attracting figures like Truman Capote and Elena Ferrante. Capote sought solitude here in the 1950s to work on his writing, finding a peaceful retreat at the Pensione di Lustro. The island’s quiet charm and natural beauty clearly provide a conducive environment for creativity.
More recently, Ischia was famously depicted in Elena Ferrante’s novel “My Brilliant Friend” and its popular HBO adaptation. The island served as the setting for the protagonists’ holiday, showcasing its steep cobblestone streets, moonlit beaches, and thermal waters. Reading about their experiences there made me appreciate the island’s relaxed summer rhythms even more.
Where to Stay
Ischia offers a range of accommodations, from luxurious hotels to more intimate guesthouses.
For a truly upscale experience, the Mezzatorre Hotel and Thermal Spa is exceptional, with doubles starting around €495. Another grand option is the Regina Isabella, which boasts a Michelin-starred restaurant, Indaco, run by chef Pasquale Palamaro. Doubles here begin at €335.
The recently opened Botania Relais features the wonderful vegetarian restaurant Il Mirto, with doubles from €350. The San Montano Resort and Spa also offers chic rooms with stunning views, starting at €350, and they provide transfers to a great beach below.
If you’re looking for apartments with sea views, Costa del Capitano has lovely refurbished properties near Sant’ Angelo, with one-bedroom apartments from €470.
Dining Recommendations
In Ischia Ponte, Coco is a great choice for authentic local food at fair prices, whether you’re a tourist or a local. Giardino Eden nearby is perfect for a romantic meal by the sea, especially with the castle backdrop; booking ahead is essential here.
For lunch with a view, La Scannella is highly recommended. Their mozzarella is sourced from the owner’s own buffalo herd. You can also book beach loungers and umbrellas there.
Planning Your Visit in 2026
Getting to Ischia is straightforward. You can take a ferry from Naples (Napoli Beverello port), which takes just over an hour. Many hotels offer convenient transfers from the ferry dock on the island.
When you plan your visit for 2026, consider the various activities and sights. The island truly offers something for everyone, from spa treatments and historical exploration to scenic hikes and boat trips. The combination of natural beauty, therapeutic waters, and authentic island culture makes Ischia an unforgettable destination.
Enjoy your trip to this remarkable Italian island!